The engine stopped running why?

My 1995 Camry 2.2 will only start if I advance the distributor past the hold down point. I have check every thing over and over including the timing belt cam position to TDC position, distributor rotor under #1 on the cap. I have back probed the ECM and checked every pin voltage test and all check out ok. I changed the Ecm with a used one purchased from Ebay still the same thing. When the distributor is in the proper position the enging just cranks untill I step on the gas then it back fires thru the throttle body.

The #1 piston is up @ TDC the cam is @ it's mark. The cam gear has a hole which is aligned with a mark on the cam bearing cap you look thru the hole in the cam gear to align the hole with the mark. When both those are in place both valves are closed on the #1 cylinder which is the one closes to the timing belt. The distributor has alignment marks you align before stabbing back into the head and when those marks are aligned the rotor points to aprox 7 pm postion which is #1 on the cap. I have checked & triple checked the plug wire position, timing belt alignment, distributor position, and everything else over and over again.

I finally got it figured out. Something kept bugging me that was the wire on the original pig tail was black and it was on the end of the pig tail but both all of the wiring diagrams and both pig tails I had including one off of a 93 camry showed the black wire in the middle. I found the original pig tail I cut off and broke it apart to find the wire colors and they turned out to go different prongs on the distributor that the other pigtails and different than all of the wiring diagrams. Motors, Mitchell, Autozone & Haynes repair manuals all had it wrong. Wow I i hadn't kept the old connector I doubt this would have ever got fixed. Thanks for all the help. Dan

Why my camry 2200 won't start with the alternator plugged in. And what are common reasons for my 2200 camry to have a bad miss to it why idling.

The car will shut off when coming to a stop and when in rain sometimes wont start. I have replaced the cap and rotor plugs wires fuel fitter and distributor.

I smell fuel sometimes and I jumped a wire to get my codes and I got a 31. The check engine light is not on as if there were a problem. This happened six months ago and if I got it started and pushed on the gas it would barely run. Then I would start it again and it would drive fine for twenty feet and then if I have it gas it would die and not start at all. I could let it set for sometimes an hour or a month and then one day it would start and run fine for several months. A few weeks ago it started doing this again. I would crank it several times and then finally it would start and maybe run a little rough for a few seconds but then be fine. It would do this once a week for a couple weeks and then it started occurring several times last week. It sat for two days before it would start and then acted fine driving until I started to slow down to stop and it started shaking and shuddering and I tried giving it gas to keep it running but it still shut off. I cranked it over a couple times and then it started and I drove a half mile and it shut off again while I was slowing down to turn. It shut off and I can’t get it to start at all now after several days. I replaced the MAP sensor but still just cranks with no start. What should I do?

My car will run when first started for about thirty to forty five minutes. Then it shuts down and I have to wait until it cools down before it restarts. Once it cools down it will run from five to forty five minutes depending on how I let it cool down. I have replaced the igniter coil due to the fact I had a check engine light code of 14 which is the igniter, but no help. It almost seams as though an electrical component is heating up and shorting out until it cools down. Any help would be appreciated.

I try starting my car and it will crank but won’t start. After I try starting it a few times it will start. This doesn’t always happen, only randomly. Last week it started and then shut off after I turned on the A/C right away it shut off. I tried starting it and it only would crank not turn over and white smoke came from under the hood. I let it set about fifteen minutes and then it started right up and drove fine. Since then it would not start a few random times but after cranking it over a few times it started and was fine. Today it wouldn’t start again. Tried several times and then white smoke under the hood again. Still won’t start.

I have a Camry 94, after driving for more than an hour it starts miss firing and some times it stops. And after that I try to start it but it won't. Engine cranks but don't start.I've change fuel pump, distributor, ignitor, plugs. But still it's the same.I've examined one thing that when it's cranking and not starting.I've unplugged the fuel pump connector then it starts
then plugging back the connector car keeps on running but when I stop the car it's the same. And then unplug the fuel pump. Engine starts. Please help me!

Have you looked at the fuel pressure regulator going to the injectors it may be getting clogged

Check your fuel pump relay and the EFI relay. Sounds as if you have an electrical problem.

Hello my 1994 Toyota camry with 225000 miles wont start after driving for about an hour.I start car in the morning or after its been sitting a few hours it idles high at about 2500 rpms then idle fluctuates up and down till settling down to about 1.5 rpms then I will drive around for about an hour or so then get back in car after going in store or someplace else and car wont start. Cranks but wont start.I changed fuel pump, gas cap, iac valve. Cat converter, and cap wires and plugs can you please help