Why would a car shuts off for no reason?

Test the coil, distributor pick -up coils and the ignition switch to include the airflow meter.

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

Check and test the circuit opening relay and the airflow meter-Do this block open the airflap on the airflow and test drive it and see what happens-let me know

Just block the airflap open on the air flow meter with an object

Check the fresh air tube between the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body. That cannot have loose hose clamps, cracks, or any other leaks. If any air sneaks in that does not go through the mass air flow sensor, it will not get measured and no fuel will be commanded to go with it.

I've had the same frustration with tvs and car radios!

First try to read the fault codes with a scanner. '95 and older vehicles were pretty sparse with their codes, but if you can get in, look at sensor data to see what the Engine Computer is seeing. Incorrect temperature sensor readings cause some odd fuel-related performance problems. What you have to keep in mind with sensors is there is a range of readings the computer will accept as correct, even though they might be wrong. For example, the throttle position sensor is typically fed with 5.0 volts, then the acceptable range of signal voltage is approximately 0.5 to 4.5 volts. Anything outside that range sets a fault code. At idle the voltage will be 0.5 volts. While this is not a practical example, use it to illustrate my wondrous point. If the signal voltage was 2.7 volts while the throttle was closed, that would be the wrong voltage, but it would not set a fault code because 2.7 volts is within the acceptable range. This is where you have to compare all the readings to the actual operating conditions, and try to identify one that doesn't make sense.

Pay particular attention to the MAP sensor. Chrysler is the only manufacturer that has been able to make an engine run right without a mass air flow sensor. They do everything with the MAP sensor, which is extremely accurate to a level even more so that what is used. Other manufacturers usually also have a MAP sensor, but it can be for back-up strategy when the mass air flow sensor has a problem, only for barometric pressure readings, or it could be a second input for engine load. I don't know if any of that pertains to your engine, but see if that voltage responds to changes in manifold vacuum like it should.

There are several things I would try. The first thing is to clean the Idle Air Control Valve. It is located on the throttle body.
The next thing I would do is clean the MAF. It is located in the air intake hose. You can buy cleaner at most any auto parts store.

Do below to determine whether it's fuel or spark problem.

Cranks but no start condition:

Fuel and Spark:
Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

Hi R. Tate,

Thank you for the donation.

The symptoms indicates a possible malfunction with the IAC. I would suggest cleaning the throttle body and IAC coupled with readjusting the the idling speed.