How to reset the A/C compressor?

Not to stick my nose in this business, but I have been reading this and have some input. It sounds like the vehicle was brought in with a drive plate sheared, and compressor seized. There should have been some noise, smell, degraded performance leading up to this. It is not customary to assume there was a leak since the system was still trying to operate. To add to system dynamics, you can have a leak under pressure, and not under vacuum, or vice versa. Think of a connection or o-ring, as it is pulled down it is pulled together and may not lose vacuum, when under positive pressure it spreads and leaks. A leak test can cover both vacuum and pressure. Have you identified where this leak is, the evaporator is on the passenger(right) side firewall where the large line, and small line enter a case. If you had a evaporator leak, it would more than likely expell into the passenger compartment. My guess, if it leaked after the repair, the shop kinked a line, left a connection loose, used wrong o-ring seals, or somehow the condenser got punctured. There is nothing on the right side, other than the high side line to the condenser. Two connections, one at the orifice tube, and one at the condenser. Was there metal in the system? The reason I ask, is sometimes shops opt to put a filter in the line. This filter is placed in that line in a location that is at the technicians discretion. The line is cut, and the filter is attached with compression fittings. If you had a pop/hiss/vapor, you should also have oil to show where the leak is. It sounds like the shop don't want to admit, or assumes, it did nothing wrong. That is my two cents, if I stepped on any toes, let me know.

The compressor is in the right front of the car behind the bumper, scan your codes first, off and warmer on the heater controls at the same time, with your key in the on position

does your rear end stick all the way up in the air or whats your trouble a rough ride? Scan your codes!

Without being able to physically inspect the vehicle myself, I would suspect that some part of the job was done incorrectly and/or poorly. Like I said in my most recent post, there is nothing but a high side line running on the left(drivers) side of the engine. Have you inspected it for a damaged line and/or signs of oil. If the refrigerant leaked, it carries the system oil with it, that was the vapor that was seen. If the shop just replaced the compressor, nothing should have been touched in that region. As I said also, did they install a filter in the line? This is often installed after catastrophic compressor failure, in attempt to prevent any rogue metal particles from reaching the replacement compressor, the line is cut and filter installed using compression fittings. It sounded to me all along, that the initial diagnosis and repairs were done accordingly, but that something went wrong. They told you it needed an evaporator, usually those don't pop, they slowly leak, and how did they come to that conclusion. There is a pressure relief valve on the back of the compressor, it lets off at pressures of approximately 525psi to prevent system damage. If the shop is saying that it is not their fault, and something else failed, have them show you where it is leaking. Otherwise, have a second opinion.

It should not cycle at all when ambient temp is below 40F. It will cycle when in defrost, and/or when in 'auto' and the temp is above 40. The high side temp sensor does have some affect on cooling fan operation. Higher than normal high side temp may indicate reduced airflow across the condenser, say when idling in traffic and the weather is warm. They would come on high in an effort to increase flow across the condenser.

[quote:6ce2362b76="bdc"]Air Conditioning problem
1997 Cadillac Deville V8 Front Wheel Drive Manual 93000 miles

scan for codes, push off and warmmer, at the same time, if it has codes it wont work, so hes not telling the truth if it has codes, because system wont power up

The current codes acm b1347 is an ac code low refridgerant you still have a leak, will have to get my caddy book out for the pcm 1139, will get back with you

It is possible that oil is settling in the compressor, and the noise your getting is described as slugging. The compressor is processing liquid, which don't compress. In theory, it could be detrimental to the component, have never seen a failed compressor because of it.

It is possible that when you had the compressor replaced, the oil that was added to it created too much in the system. Since you don't have any idea how much oil is in the system to begin with, and adding oil to a component is required at replacement, it is easy to have too much. If you were to have something done about it, a simple evac and recharge may resolve it.

Not really sure at this point, without hearing the noise I can only guess that that is what is occurring. To remove and drain each component in order to get an idea how much oil is in there would be costly, Do you feel it is enough of a concern to warrant spending the money on?