Power window wiring please?

Hi,
I recently bought a 1994 Buick Century. The front Power windows will not work. I bought a new motor and removed the front passenger drive motor. I tested the old one and found it to be really weak. I have lubed the track and moved on. At the switch on the passenger side I only get voltage for the Power Locks. I get nothing for the windows. I have checked the "circuit breaker" for continuity-it's fine. I get voltage at the fuse pannel for the windows (the rear ones work fine). My Chil#on manual is dissapointingly vauge on this subject.? Are there any fusible links involved in this system? Does the passenger side switch rely on the driver side switch for voltage? Any bases I haven't covered? Throw be a bone, please. I.E. Test points etc.

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm a bit of a retard when it comes to electrical diagrams. Ask me to rebuild a SB Chevy, no problem. Tell me to install an am Radio and my-you know what-puckers right up! Based on your diagram, which points should I "jump" over to supply the passenger side directly with power? Your diagram is much more enlightening than the chilton B&W garbage. The resolution is a bit weak in this format. Are the "up and down" legs going to the passenger side switch assy. GRY and DK BLU?

Thanks,
:

What can I say, I think that you have done all you can. The rest is up to me. I do sincerely appreciate your help. I only regret that I have but (0) points to award you! (How do I earn points anyway?). Rest assured that as soon as I do have some points to divy out, your name will be at the top of the list. BTW is the info you gave me available to the average Joe? I will always try and fix something myself before going to the dealership. No offense, I just can't afford $95 per hour labor.

No dice on my points. I now show 0.2 points. I'll definately keep you posted.

The boots on this car will pop out. I'll give it a shot. It is a real pain in the neck lying upside-down with my head on the floormat and my feet on the driveway! Oh, how I LUST for a lift!

Thanks to all. The problem is solved. The large ground wire going through the driver side door was broken. A 5 cent connector solved the problem. Later, I'm going to post a "lessons learned" rundown for future viewers.

Aut viam, invenium aut faciam!

I think it goes

Recap:
I bought a 1994 Buick Century with faulty front power windows. No movement at all. After getting a quote to have the work done, I decided to tackle the job myself. I bought a Chilton and jumped right in.
Now for the lessons learned:
1) Don't bother with the Chilton manual. In the past they were at the top in my book. Now I have extra toilet paper.
2) Donate to 2carpros. The info I got here was top notch. So much so, that I'm sure I would still be bangin' my knuckles if it were not for the knowlege I got here.
3) Test your fuse and power at the fuse.
4) Test your window motor(s). After you have taken off the door pannel, bare a small section of the wires leading to your power window motor and connect a 12v battery to them. You will find out if the motor is any good.
5) Slice open the boot leading from the body of the car to your door. This is where I found my problem. The large ground wire (black) was broken. It is the largest wire going through the hole, which makes sense because any break in the insulation of that wire will focus stress at that point when you open and close your door.
6) Start the process at the drivers side. The switch on this side feeds the entire passenger side. A broken wire, bad switch or any other Gremlin here will throw you off on the passenger side.
7) Lubricate the track and "Tape" that raise and lower the window. When I first put my hands on the tape and tried to close the window manualy, it would not budge. I liberaly hosed it down with "The 9th Wonder Of The World" WD-40. Then I drenched it with white lithium grease, the kind in the spray can. I was able to raise and lower the window with my hand. The dry track and tape put a tremendous load on the motor.
MISC) While you are at the parts store remember to buy door panel retaining clips. Undoubtedly you will break a few removing the panel. If you have to replace a motor, keep a kid handy. Thier little hands will save you from extensive skin and blood loss.

A six pack and some good luck go a long way!

Thanks.

Hello. I have recently purchased a 94 Buick Century. And I tell you what. This is deadly driving without being able to roll windows down. I’ve checked the main areas all seem to be in place before I do anything dramatic. Like break a window. Jk. I think I’ll cut the boot between the door and vehicle to see if any wires are crimped torn or frayed. If that’s not the case maybe there is a main fuse somewhere. Although the back
Passenger window works Any thought or ideas.
Anything helps.
Sedgewick M

Thank you I appreciate your response. Later today I should have time to mess with it.

Is it okay to run power from car battery to test the windows? Or am I liable to short something out?