Brand new battery, brand new alternator, battery light still on after resetting it

Tiny
MICHAEL.CARNEVALE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
The lug was cleaned and tightened, the voltage is fine. I was told it could be my E.C.M.
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
If the voltage is fine, then it does not need an ecm.

Thats why I want the actual voltage

Roy
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AAA2A
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES
For the past four months the battery light would stay on when car is started. If I shut car off and restart the jight would go out. Is this a sign the Alternator is going bad?
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DANAUTHIER
  • MECHANIC
  • 156 POSTS
It could be the alternator or the battery failing.
I would have them both checked, most major parts stores will do this for you free of charge.
Let Me know,
Dan
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 1998 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 156,000 MILES
Alternator light intermittently comes off and on in my 1998 chrysler sebring, The alt. & Battary are brand new.
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Measure the two voltages on the small wires on the back of the alternator while the engine is running AND while the light is on. Holler back with those numbers.
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DON STUTEVILLE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1997 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
After car runs for 5-10 mins, battery light comes on and stays on. Stop car and restart, light stays off for 5-10 mins and comes on again. Battery replaced last month. Had All-Parts Automotive do the system test. When the light was off, they said alternator was fine and battery fine but low charge. I drove 10 mins, light came on, I had them test with light on. Test said battery was bad. Stopped car, had them restest and it says battery is ok. Battery connections seem tight and look ok. Car is a 1997 Sebring convertible. Any idea what the problem is?
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Wait until the problem occurs, then measure the voltage on the two small wires on the back of the alternator. They will be two wires that are plugged in, or two wires that go through a black plastic block, then appear on two tabs that are held on with two very small nuts. The voltages will only be there when the engine is running.

One terminal must have full battery voltage. The secret is the other wire. It should be less than the first one but not 0 volts. Use an inexpensive digital voltmeter to measure them, then holler back.

Caradiodoc
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DON STUTEVILLE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks for the reply and suggestion. I appreciate it.
There are 3 wires, but I assume we're not talking about the big red one. Of the other 2, 1 was green with an orange tracer- it read about 12.9v on my analog meter (same as across the battery terminals). The other wire was solid green and 0 volts.
If you're going to say the alternator is bad, can you tell me why the store test said the charging system was ok (13.80v 29.7A no load and 13.81V 62.6A Loaded)?
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Yup. REAL common problem. The brushes are worn and making intermittent contact. The testing has to be done while the problem is occurring. During their test, they caught it while it was working.

If you can find the parts, you might be able to replace the brush assembly without removing the alternator from the engine, at least that could be done on the older stuff that I drive. I've done this many times on cars I put "bugs" in for my students to troubleshoot.

Here's a photo of what the assembly looks like. You don't have to remove the terminal block as I did in the photo, just the three screws.

Caradiodoc
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Here's what the back cover should look like on your car. Notice the "ND" in the middle for Nippendenso.

Caradiodoc
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MYSALIOR06
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 124,000 MILES
Ok I got a new batt three weeks ago and my batt light started coming on again but then it would go off for a few days. Then is started to die on me and I jumped it off and I took it in they couldn't find any thing wrong with the batt and then it just wouldn't stay started after I jumped it off. The repair shop says it may be the fuel pump but I don't think that is the reason. But what else could it be?
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Is the battery going dead? I really question the fuel pump is the problem. Did they test the alternator?
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JIM TRAVIS2
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2005 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.7L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 113,540 MILES
Brand new battery, new alternator, and brand new re-manufacture ECM. ECM was corrupt I cleaned all the grounds to the chassis and cleared faulty codes. Only codes available was for heater control circuit and EGR. Any help with ambient air temperature location? I'm scratching my head on this one. Any experience with this issue would be greatly appreciated and helpful. I did clean all the grounds. And 3 weeks into this one, thanks in advance for your help.
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Sunday, October 25th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
More then likely you have an issue on the generator field control wire. Either a connector issue or the wire itself has a short or high resistance. I highlighted here in the wiring diagram.

We need to check for a short and measure resistance from end to end. Basically this is the wire that the PCM uses to control the generator.

We can confirm the generator is causing the light to come on if you check the voltage across the battery when the engine is running. There should be around 14 volts. If not then the light is coming on properly telling you the voltage is low.

Let me know what you find. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring
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Sunday, October 25th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)

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