There's two things to watch out for. The biggest issue is you'll see no brake line runs close to hot exhaust system parts. Doing so can cause moisture in the brake fluid to boil and cause one type of brake fade. The second is the manufacturer doesn't always try to protect the steel lines from salt spray. You might do a better job, but don't route any lines where they will flex or vibrate, and are not close to moving parts like drive shafts. Anchor it well in multiple places. Vibration over time will result in "work-hardening" which makes the metal brittle and susceptible to cracking.
Most people use multiple pieces of pre-manufactured lines coupled together. As such, you'll end up with a few inches left over and the need to make a few small bends to use that up. Avoid bending it in such a manner as to create high spots where air can become trapped when bleeding.
The biggest problem do-it-yourselfers and inexperienced mechanics cause is when pedal-bleeding with a helper. Never push the brake pedal more than half way to the floor. Crud and corrosion build up in the lower halves of the bores in the master cylinder where the pistons don't normally travel. Pushing the pedal over half way runs the rubber lip seals over that crud and can rip them. That results in a slowly-sinking brake pedal, and that often takes two or three days to show up. A rebuilt master cylinder is needed to solve that. I only use gravity-bleeding for this type of work.
It's also a good idea to flush the brake fluid every few years. That's mostly to remove the moisture that naturally builds up and lowers the fluid's boiling point a lot. That can lead to a second form of brake fade. That moisture also promotes corroding steel lines from the inside. Every manufacturer recommends this, but few of us do it because we tend to ignore things that aren't causing a problem. Here's a link to an article that can provide more information:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system
Saturday, April 13th, 2019 AT 7:53 PM
