Blown Head Gasket?

Oh, I included a picture of the upper timing gear attached to the camshaft so you could see it. The crankshaft is right on at TDC. The dot on the gear attached to the camshaft seems a couple teeth too far to the left when looking straight on. Here are the pics again.

How is it the chain’s position makes a difference? It’s the same length no matter where it’s positioned so how does that change the timing? It looks like it may have jumped a couple of teeth.

Okay, I picked up the pressure tested, machined cylinder head. The machinist changed the valves and seats (?) And installed bronze ones. Right now, I’m going to start to remove more items from the engine bay so that I can fix the timing chain.

But I was looking at the head and realized one side of the valve train (is that correct) is missing the metal posts that are present on the other side. Is this normal or did the machinist forget them?

I attached a photo so you can see what I mean. One side has an arrow pointing to the metal post and the other side has an arrow showing a ballpoint pen in the empty space I’m unclear about.

I looked at pictures as best I could to see if other 22RE cylinder heads looked the same and from what I could see, they are. Most photos are from angles that don’t show what Im referring to very well but I found a couple and it looked like the intake sides have the dowels/guides and the exhausts don’t.

I called the machinist and sent him a video and he said that it’s correct. He looked at another 22RE head he had and said it also was the same. So, although it seems strange, I guess it’s correct.

Back to removing the timing chain...
I’ll post an update again soon.

Update: I finally got the machined head and new gasket on, and the camshaft dot was about 15 degrees BTDC. I rotated it with a punch until it was about correct, but still need to do so a little more. This was done WITHOUT the chain being connected to the crankshaft.

At this point, I figured the crankshaft was off by so much because it was machined, and new valves and guides were installed. Is rotating it separate of the crankshaft, correct? Truly, I don't see how I'd get everything to line up without doing so, I just want to make sure I'm not going to end up with valves and pistons that collide.

I realized that I'd installed the chain incorrectly, previously. There are two shiny links that are really hard to distinguish and are basically only visible in the correct light and from a certain angle. The chain I have has 8 "max top" links, so I thought that centering two of those at the dot on the camshaft was correct, but it wasn't. I see that now.

The crankshaft hasn't been moved whatsoever since I took everything apart. I'm figuring this: rotate the camshaft a little more clockwise so that that dot, key, and bottom bright link on the chain are all in alignment. Then, put the bottom bright link on the crankshaft at the dot, reattach the crankshaft gear and timing chain, then insert the distributor to make sure the rotor points to the first spark plug position. If all of that is correct, that means I'm still at TDC on the first piston. What do you think? Am I doing this correctly?

I included a picture of the crankshaft gear and chain zip tied to it. The shiny link is right on the crankshaft gear's dot, and as you can see, the gear is slightly BTDC. This is after I'd rotated it a bit already, but it still needs to be rotated clockwise a bit more so that I can get the bottom link on the correct tooth of the camshaft gear.