Check engine light on, code B2600

Tiny
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The timing barely moves at all while revving it up, maybe 3 degrees. I was told by another mechanic, which means the ECU is still bad. That sound correct to you?
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Monday, December 6th, 2021 AT 3:35 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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The timing not changing is likely the root cause as it needs to advance as the rpms rise, when it doesn't you get the issues, you have. That distributor should have a mechanical advance in it as well as the electronic system, from your description I would say the issue is the mechanical parts as failures in the electronics would set a code due to the timing being off, the mechanical parts however won't set a code as they are not monitored. It's also possible as you see no advance at all that it's a combination of both.
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Monday, December 6th, 2021 AT 10:09 AM
Tiny
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Great. I will have to look at the distributor. It's fairly new, I renewed it in the past year, I believe. Heck, if anything I'll put the old one in and see what happens. Thanks for all the assistance.
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Monday, December 6th, 2021 AT 10:57 AM
Tiny
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Hi,

I noticed it has been a couple of days since we heard from you. Has any progress been made? We're interested in knowing.

Joe
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Wednesday, December 8th, 2021 AT 7:32 PM
Tiny
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Got a new distributor in and there was no change. I sent the ECU back out to the company that rebuilt it for me. So, we'll see.
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Thursday, December 9th, 2021 AT 1:31 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Thanks for the update. If you can, let us know how things turn out for you.

Take care,

Joe
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Thursday, December 9th, 2021 AT 4:56 PM
Tiny
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Will do. Thanks
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Sunday, December 12th, 2021 AT 1:58 PM
Tiny
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ECU rebuilder found nothing wrong with my ECU, they sent me a known working ECU. I double, triple checked the timing pulled the valve cover off to make sure the distributor was going in correctly. Same hesitation problem runs great at 12* btdc, still no check engine light.
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Friday, December 24th, 2021 AT 1:35 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Okay, as a recap, the truck starts and runs fine with the timing at 12 btdc, but it has hesitation and lack of power when you accelerate. Is that correct? You replaced the distributor and went through the ECU. The timing doesn't seem to advance though.
Fuel system has the correct pressures as well, correct?
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Saturday, December 25th, 2021 AT 3:13 AM
Tiny
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Yes.
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Saturday, December 25th, 2021 AT 6:16 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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When you say hesitation, how long does it last? Is it short term like you step on the pedal, and it bogs a bit then picks up quick, or is it more step on the gas and wait 20 seconds or more for it to catch up? Those engines are not super powerful, but they still shouldn't lag a lot if things are working. The lack of timing changes still makes me think there is an issue with the advance but with a new distributor that shouldn't be the case.
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Monday, December 27th, 2021 AT 1:48 PM
Tiny
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It typically starts hesitating around 2,400-2,500 RPMs and goes away. I still think it's the ECU. I've bought another one and we'll see how it goes.
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Tuesday, December 28th, 2021 AT 7:03 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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When you say it goes away, do you mean it hits that area of RPMs and then corrects itself or that it just gets worse from that point? What does it do if you put it to the floor? Does it hit the same point and stumble and recover or does it drop off? That is about the point that the timing should be advancing to compensate for the higher RPMs.
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Wednesday, December 29th, 2021 AT 10:19 AM
Tiny
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Going through the gears, it hesitates at 2,400-2,500 RPMs. I will get to third and floor it, it'll hesitate at that RPM, eventually it'll move past that RPM and quit hesitating.
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Wednesday, December 29th, 2021 AT 3:59 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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It almost has to be ignition related to that description. Fuel flow would cause issues above that rpm as well and adjusting the timing wouldn't do anything for that. Does this one has a vacuum line to the distributor? That was around the time they removed it but if you have it, start the engine then disconnect it and plug the line, take it for a drive and see if it improves or gets worse.
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Wednesday, December 29th, 2021 AT 8:22 PM
Tiny
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No vacuum line on the distributor. I have tested the primary and secondary coil resistance and its within spec. The only thing left would be the igniter and ignition control module, but I have spark. I'm not thinking that's the problem.
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Thursday, December 30th, 2021 AT 6:25 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Okay, you have the newer system where that is all controlled electronically. Wouldn't it be the coil, those start to fail you would see it start breaking up and just get worse as the rpms climb, it wouldn't get better again. That's the strange thing is it getting better after it acts up. It's a long shot but how about disconnecting the EGR and see if things change. If it was suddenly opening at that RPM it could cause problems that would go away as the vacuum dropped off.
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Thursday, December 30th, 2021 AT 8:12 AM
Tiny
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It does not have an EGR valve.
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Thursday, December 30th, 2021 AT 10:32 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Hmm, this is a 90 correct? It should have EGB unless it was removed.
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Thursday, December 30th, 2021 AT 3:21 PM
Tiny
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It's a 1992 B2600i. There are four vacuum switches on the right side of the engine, before all this drama started I checked them and they were opening and closing with jumper wires, they are also getting 12-volts from the harness. Now the third one down won't open. I know these things have to do with emissions.
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Thursday, December 30th, 2021 AT 5:14 PM

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