Check engine light on, code B2600

Tiny
MISBELL
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 MAZDA B2600
  • 2.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 200,000 MILES
Driving along, check engine light comes on with no change in performance. I am trying to pull the code so I grounded the one wire that's attached to the green plug on passenger side under the hood. Then I turned the ignition on expecting the check engine light to flash telling me what code has been set. The check engine light is not flashing, it just remains lit. What am I doing wrong? Thank you
Sunday, April 11th, 2021 AT 4:25 PM

43 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,465 POSTS
You have half of the process. You ground the green wire then you need an LED test light connected between pins one and two Then count the flashes on the LED. If it's an engine code it should be in the attached chart. Pull the code(s) and post them and we can see what the issue is.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Sunday, April 11th, 2021 AT 5:37 PM
Tiny
MISBELL
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Thank you very much.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 1:28 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,465 POSTS
You are welcome. Did find any codes or just not have much time to mess with it yet?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 7:20 PM
Tiny
MISBELL
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I am confused about one thing. I am using a test light between terminals one and two, not an LED test light. Is there a difference? When I look up LED test light it looks like a regular test light. The test light did not flash, the check engine light on the dash did not flash.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, April 27th, 2021 AT 9:50 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,465 POSTS
Needs to be an LED light and attached so the ground is on pin 1 and the tip is on pin 2. Then the LED will flash the codes. The LED blocks current in one direction and that tells the ECU to go into diagnostic mode.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, April 27th, 2021 AT 10:34 AM
Tiny
MISBELL
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Thank you. I will pick one up and try it. I was just using a continuity test light, no doubt that was my problem. I will post back.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, April 27th, 2021 AT 4:21 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi,

I noticed we haven't heard from you for a couple of days. Has any progress been made? We're interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, April 29th, 2021 AT 9:20 PM
Tiny
MISBELL
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Got the LED light and it flashes, trying to read the flashes.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, May 6th, 2021 AT 10:15 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,465 POSTS
The easiest way to do that is to set it up and just start counting the flashes, write them down and then stop when you see them start to repeat again. So say it flashes 1-4, then 0-3 then 1-5 then you see 1-4 again, Stop and the codes are the 2 digit numbers you find. If you really have a problem see if you can record them in a video and post that on here and we can try reading them.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, May 6th, 2021 AT 11:05 AM
Tiny
MISBELL
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Negative battery cable clamp was kind of dissolved, wouldn't stay tight. Thank you for your help.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, May 26th, 2021 AT 7:38 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,465 POSTS
Loss of ground would cause a few issues. Great to hear you found it. Thank you for using 2CarPros.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, May 26th, 2021 AT 8:32 AM
Tiny
PHAJOST
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
I'm having the same problem. Did everything from the other comments. I get no check engine light.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, December 3rd, 2021 AT 8:13 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,465 POSTS
Have you used the LED test light to pull the codes? If not, that is the first place to start. If the CEL came on while driving there will be codes stored.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, December 3rd, 2021 AT 1:14 PM
Tiny
PHAJOST
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
I have used the test light. No codes, no check engine light. I had to renew the head awhile back and I'm thinking a have the distributor in the wrong location. I've set it to 5* BTDC, but it runs like crap. If I set it to 8-10* BTDC it runs great.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, December 4th, 2021 AT 10:09 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi,

If you are able to get the distributor to the timing you mentioned, chances are that isn't the cause. When you replaced the head, are you sure the timing chain wasn't off a tooth?

Also, does it run poorly at idle? Have you checked things such as engine vacuum leaks and fuel pressure? If the poor running at 5 BTDC is limited to loading the engine, are you certain there isn't an issue with spark control (ignition advance)?

Let us know.

Take care.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, December 4th, 2021 AT 7:57 PM
Tiny
PHAJOST
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Yeah. I double triple checked the timing chain placement. I have checked for vacuum leaks and fuel pressure. Haven't found any leaks and fuel pressure was with range. I have had numerous b2600i and have had to get the ECUs rebuilt in all of them. I'm thinking this ECU is still bad. Other than testing the ignition coil, I don't know of what else to check. Any ideas? Thanks
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 5th, 2021 AT 8:17 AM
Tiny
PHAJOST
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
I'm also not getting any fault codes. The LED test light is working though. I've unplugged sensors and the fault codes come up for the sensor I unplugged.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 5th, 2021 AT 8:51 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,465 POSTS
Okay, you say you can set it to 8 degrees, and it runs fine, does it have any other issues other than the timing being off? No Check engine Light or loss of power or other issue? You are checking it with the test connector grounded, correct? If all of that is correct, I would bring number one up to TDC and verify that the timing mark is correctly on TDC with relation to the cover. Could you take a somewhat close up shot of the crankshaft pulley and post it on here? It's possible the outer ring has slipped on the rubber and that is the reason the timing shows as being wrong.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 5th, 2021 AT 10:00 AM
Tiny
PHAJOST
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Its struggles with power on hard acceleration, seems like it's choking itself out. I have no fault codes. I have had to get the ECUs rebuilt on these trucks in the past and have had this one rebuilt. Here is the pulley, keyway is 1200 and the timing mark is at TDC.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 5th, 2021 AT 12:57 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,465 POSTS
Okay, just wondered if it may have slipped, have seen it happen a few times. Nothing like trying to set timing when the target is always moving around. Here's a test, you say bumping the timing up helps, try moving it a bit higher and then see if the top end power improves, if it does it would mean that the timing isn't advancing the way it should. What does the mark show if you rev it in park? Being a 1990 they generally don't set codes until things are really bad. Sort of like someone who won't go to the doctor for anything less than a torn off limb or a bullet wound, everything else is just "wear and tear" I've seen OBD I cars that never set a code but were barely able to run from all the things actually wrong with them.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 5th, 2021 AT 4:00 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links