At a loss slow start, cranks and no start

Tiny
MATHEW CHAMBERS
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 ACURA TL
  • 2.5L
  • 5 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 2,888,000 MILES
Car has always kind of chose it's own time to start.
Most times it would crank without firing several times then begin to start after turning key on then off. You would have to do this several times. It would fire for a second then stop several times and try running a little longer as you continue to turn key off and try again. Sometimes it would hit a dead spot and not try at all, then you had to wait 20 30 minutes to try again. Once it started it ran beautifully and would restart the first try all day. But if you parked for several hours it would take some more finesse to get it started again especially cold wet days. Had the obd checked they told me to give it a tune up. It finally just quit trying no matter how long you tried it would not fire at all. I tried resoldering the 7 pin main relay. The first time it started right away. Then drove it started fine several times, but when I parked it for the night it would take 15 20 minutes turning off key and trying over and over just like before. I tried soldering again and it did the same. I'm not a good soldier. It seemed just unplugging the relay and plugging back in worked, but it didn't. Bought a new relay installed it and started immediately and continued to do so all day. Running super. Until next morning it started doing the same thing as above taking 15 20 minutes to actually stay running. Disconnected net batt. Term, unplugged and plugged relay back in it would start and run fine, but this only lasted a few times. Checked fuel pressure at filter 55 + pound would hold pressure all day.
Replaced fuel filter.
New air cleaner.
Put seafoam in gas
Cleaned and checked spark on plugs.
It would eventually start after each installation but same as before.
The alternator went out and is not charging at all.
Remove ed and tested alternator and internal components. Going to have to replace alternator. Just don't have the money now.
Car would still start and run but still did exactly the same as before.
Tested spark plugs, wires coil.
Replaced leaking valve e cover and plug seals. Just because it needed it anyway.
Checked voltage going to injectors. Same as battery.
Grounds seem to be fine
Car still starts and runs fine but same as before, just for the day.
checked injector pressure regulator. Pull off vacuum to regulator and engine idles up some, no fuel in hose or tubing.
At this point it still starts eventually and starts and runs fine for the day as long as battery hold up.
Listened to fuel injectors with a fiberglass rod touching each one sounds like they are all ticking fine.
Removed fuel rail and injectors.
Cleaned thoroughly.
Cleaned micro filter in tips
Used seafoam and gas to clean
Tried to test all injectors on the fuel rail, trying to get them to spray on a piece of cardboard this didn't work, because the injectors are just plugged in wit the rubber seals.
Re installed fuel rail and injectors.
Tried starting the engine and now it won't even try to fire no matter how long I try or wait and try again.
It's so frustrating.
Checked voltage to injectors same as before battery voltage
Tried removing negative battery and unplugging then plugging main relay again. Still doesn't even try to fire. I was getting closer to getting it started easier after each thing I did.
Checked all fuses and relays I could find.
Until I cleaned the injectors. Then I'm worse off than when I first started replacing, testing and cleaning.
Main relay clicks fuel pump comes on clicks off each time you try ignition.
Seems to be working fine.
I am at such a loss. O2 sensors, computer, air intake?
Oh yeah. Fixed a large crack in the rubber air intake in the middle of all this. I might be able to borrow an obd reader.
Please help.
Thank you Mat.
Monday, March 1st, 2021 AT 6:35 PM

1 Reply

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Hi Matt,

The idea that it does start and then doesn't leads me to believe it is losing fuel or spark. When it doesn't start, I need you to see if it will start using starting fluid. If it does and then stalls, we know it's fuel-related. If it doesn't even try to start, then it is likely fuel-related.

As I was reading, everything sounds like fuel pressure drop-off, but you said that isn't an issue. Have you checked the crankshaft position sensor? That could be bad as well. Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

If you haven't checked it already, here are the directions. The pics below correlate with the directions.
__________________________________________________________________
1997 Acura TL L5-2451cc 2.5L SOHC MFI
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Vehicle Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Computers and Control Systems Crankshaft Position Sensor Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics
COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS

pic 1

pic 2

(_PO335_)
The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code.(DTC) PO335: No signal in the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor circuit.

(_P0336_)
The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0336: Intermittent interruption in the Crankshaft Position PO336 (CKP) sensor circuit.

(_P1361_)
The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1361: Intermittent interruption in the Top Dead Center (TDC) sensor circuit.

(_P1362_)
The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1362: No signal in the Top Dead Center (TDC) sensor circuit.

(_P1381_)
The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1381: Intermittent interruption in the Cylinder Position (CYP) sensor circuit.

(_P1382_)
The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1382: No signal in the Cylinder Position (CYP) sensor circuit.

NOTE:
- If DTC P1359 is stored at the same time as DTC P0335, P0336, P1361, P1362, P1381 and/or P1382, troubleshoot DTC P1359 first, then troubleshoot those DTCs.

pic 3

(_P1359_)
The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1359: A problem Crankshaft Position/Top Dead Center/Cylinder Position (CKP/TDC/CYP) sensor circuit.

Also, take a look through this link. It discusses the most common causes of a crank no start condition.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

The best thing to do is what you mentioned above. Get a scan tool to see if there are stored diagnostic trouble codes stored. That will help point us in the right direction. Here's a quick video showing how it's done.

https://youtu.be/b2IJGfImVvw

However, when it refuses to start, recheck for spark to the plugs and fuel pressure. If both are good, confirm there is an injector pulse to the fuel injectors. Here is a link to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

_________________

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care and God Bless,

Joe
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 4:49 PM

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