While driving vehicle all of a sudden lost acceleration power?

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
No, the Catalyst won't come and go like that. The first thing you need to do is monitor the fuel pressure while this is happening and see if the pressure is dropping when this happens.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MARISA0317
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 100,000 MILES
My car will not accelerate as it should. When I try to do so, it shakes and seems to have a hard time pushing past 25mph. After some clicking (which sounds like its coming from underneath the driver seat area), it will SLOWLY make its way to about 40mph. No matter how much I press and let off the gas, my car will not speed up- though the RPMs will jump around. The clicking noise will happen again a few more times. Then the car will kind of "kick" forward and pick up speed. No weird smells, no leaks that I have noticed. I had my oil changed around the begining of January of this year, and also I had to get both my upper and lower radiador hoses replaced due to dry rot. Could you give me an idea as to what this might be, and how much it usually costs?
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
You have to find what’s wrong 1st to get an estimate
With engine running do you have a check engine light?
Have to check for codes as a 1st step
If check engine light on and blinking it’s an indication of an engine misfire and need to check it for tune up and the coil
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JONES54
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 FORD TAURUS
Engine Mechanical problem
2004 Ford Taurus V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

we took the car to anmco 900 hundred dollars latter they said we hads to take it to a ford dealer to get co sensor replaced and car reprogramed. Called ford they said bring it in but did not have a clue what anmco was talking about. This was at the bottom of the bill. Came in with cat convertor code and 02 sensor and car would not move without dying. Inspected bank 2 cat and found it damaged and empty. Inspected rear cat converter and found it was plugged up. Replaced cats and cleared codes. 02 sensor code came back and has poor acceleration. When first starting in morning the car stalls out until warm. Has no power.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BILLYMAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,204 POSTS
Hi
if your question is what does this mean?The convertor on bank 2 was damaged as in maybe hit by road debri.

The rear convertor was plugged restricted with carbon and not funtioning now why they could change the convertors and ford has to change 02 sensors. I don, t know

REPROGRAMMING another mystery there are no codes or problems to indicate reflash is required. Better go on to ford and find out what is really going on
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LARRYLWILL
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 26,500 MILES
I was in the midst of turning around and the power steering just stopped working. I pulled into a gas station and checked the reservoir which was empty save some foam which was vigoriously circulating. I bought a quart of fluid and added it while the engine was running and it promptly dissipeared. I stopped the engine and it bubbled back up through the top. The pump is working and there was no fluid on the ground from under the car. I was forced to drive home about 75 miles without power steering. No noise was evident. I assume I blew an o ring in the PS unit and the fluid is in the piston or boots. Any ideas? Can the unit be rebuilt or does it have to be replaced. The car is NOT in warentee.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there, Re fill the reservoir and start up, slowly turn steering L-R & R-L turn off and let sit as aerated fluid will settle, wash down pump and rack, check level and top up as required. Start engine, Have some one turn steering while you watch, check hoses, (High and low pressure) check under for rack failure, The leak will show up, if rack, a change over unit is best option, hoses can be replaced relatively easily, as the pump as well, you just have to be sure of what is leaking, first.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LARRYLWILL
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Mark, I will do it as soon as it gets above freezing today. Thank you
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GFDOOIT
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 2004 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
Loss of power, we had a vacuum leak in intake so we replace PCV valve with o-rings, now it runs smooth but has no power going up slight hill.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Hello,

It sounds like you have a catalytic converter that is plugged up. Here are some guides that will confirm the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GFDOOIT
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thanks, we think we discovered that one of the front two converters has sent pieces out causing the 3rd rear converter to clog. So far, we lowered the bolting of the rear one and drove it, much more power and shifting correctly. So is it necessary to change the rear one, or can it be cleaned. We were told to remove it and put a pipe there. However we were told if you do that the oxygen sensor will cause it to dump more fuel. Which is best?
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Its best to replace the converter, if you try to bypass it the car will have a check engine light that will not go out and it will never run as good.

Here is a guide that will help you see what you are in for when changing the catalytic converter out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/catalytic-converter-replacement

Please let us know what happens.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
A1HANDY
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2004 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 138,000 MILES
This is a recently purchased vehicle that I just replaced the transmission in. The car has been running fine until one morning when I tried to start the engine would not turn over, the starter just spun. After awhile I tried again and the engine fired. It will build up to around 2500 rpm running smoothly then bog and run rough and drop the rpms to around 800 to 1000. This is accompanied by a single exhaust backfire.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Hi a1handy, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation.

Severe hesistation/bogging/surging could be caused by one the following below

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking, fuel filter or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GEORGE_SLO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 99,000 MILES
04 taurus eng code -u intermit power loose up hill&flat land. Had crank sensor code replace 2 days later no start next day start runs, 2day later light on codespo300 po302 po316 po351 po352 replace coil pack, fuel pump noisey replace, fuelfilter clear. Run car same problem, then got codes same codes xcept po302 insteed got po301 po304 put old coil back on lost code po304 stall had oter codes.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
You are dealing with misfires. The fact that you changed the one coil and lost the code makes me want to ask you to swith them around to see if the codes move to the different cylenders where the potentially bad coil is.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)

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