Car will not start

If that is the resistance you got between terminals A and B, that is perfect. The secondary resistance between terminal A and the secondary tower resistance should be between 12,800 19,200 ohms at 68 degrees, so it sounds like the coil is good. Here is a picture if it helps:

Now, is the igniter working properly. Follow these directions to check it:

1) Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

2) Disconnect the black/yellow, white/blue, yellow/green, and blue wires from the igniter .

3) Turn ignition on. Check for power between the black/yellow wire and ground. If voltage does not exist, check for an open between the igniter and the ignition switch. If there is power move on to number four.

4) Check for power between white/blue wire and ground. If no power exist, check the wire for damage. If there is power, move on to next step.

5) Unplug the PCM wiring harness and check for continunity in the green/yellow wire between the PCM and the ignitor. Also, check continunity of the blue wire between the ignitor and tachometer.

6) Replace or repair wiring as necessary. If there are no wiring problems, replace the ignitor.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions. These types of problems can be difficult but I think the ignitor is the problem. Let me know what you find. Keep in mind, if they removed the PCM wiring harness, it may not be properly reinstalled.

Thanks for using 2carpros.com and happy new year!

Joe

Do below to determine if its fuel or spark issue then comeback with results asap.

Get a starting fluid or ether and spray into the carburetor or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and shut off? If not disconnect a spark plug wire or two and ground it to the engine. Have helper crank engine over, do you have a snapping blue spark? If so, you have a fuel related problem. Check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors.

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors.

You need to check the battery terminals. They call them terminals and I think it is because their life should be terminated. They get bad, corrode and need to be cleaned and/or replaced. Start there.

Check all fuses with a test light.

No check engine light is a clue for a bad PCM.

Roy

Hi acardenas30518,

Here is a link with comprehensive explanation on what to look out for. check it out and let me know if you require additional assistance.

https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/first_things.htm

.

If it had the right amount of each it would be running so you need to do some more in depth testing.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That is what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the information required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the positive terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.