1995 Acura Integra does not runs in gears

Yes timing is ok or perfect. No, I have not check the tps but it accelarates almost fine (a little bit slow) if it is in P or N up to the white limit 7,000 rpm; it could also go up more to the red but I do not wanted it to pass over the red mark. And not I have not test the TPS yet with the voltimeter but as you can see it can accelerate almost fine in P or N.

Yes, timing is correct I am 90% sure.

I did the compression test and it came to an average of 170 psi range is (135-195).
Installed another ECU and no change, same problem and no codes.
I have tested most of the components like the engine coolant sensor (ecs), intake air temperature sensor (iat), tps, map, ckp/tdc/cyp sensors.
I have not tested the fuel filter. But it seems like it need more air not more fuel. I really have come to an end.
Can somebody help me!

New fuel filter and no change, same problem but anyway it needed the fuel filter, it have not been changed in years (many)!

Yes.
Yes.
But without the timing light. That's tomorrow or next week.

It is 16 degrees btdc. The integra have the marks on the crankcase or wheel. Marks of tdc and also of 16 btdc. So I check out the distributor cap for the number one spark. Then, I rotate the distributor and try to put it to spark where the mark on the crankcase or wheel is at. It is not precise but I have play with it a lot. Nevertheless, I must verify that with the timing light.

I was driving my car today and put my foot where the clutch should be and hit nothing but air. I then pulled over to look under the dash and I found my pedal stuck up against the back. I pulled it out, now slightly worried about it. Then it happened again about an hour later. I can't remember exactly what I was doing when the problems happened. I started pumping the clutch at intersections to see if it would stick, nothing. I played with it a bit more when I got home and still everything seemed fine. Any ideas to what my problem could be would be greatly appreciated.
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Somewhere in between from the midde to one side.

First Problem - Car did not run more than 2 mph after replacing a leaking water pump and timing belt.
Ok, I finally used the timing light. That was one of the problems, it was out of time. I went back and redo the timing belt work several times 2-3 times more until I got it right in conjunction with the distributor-timing light. The first time I was doing the timing belt I used the TDC mark instead of the -16 degrees mark, did not really know what I was doing the first time. So the spark was firing at the end of the compression stroke instead of a bit before. Oh boy it was a pain doing the work several times during several days until I got it right (I am not a mechanic). By the second time the car was runing but I did the timing work several times because I was adjusting better (a tooth more or less) the timing belt with the two camshaft. Finally, I found a way to hold by myself one camshaft (mark straight up) with a screwdriver against a half unscrew from the camshaft rod holders.
KHLow2008 you always recalled me if the car was out of time and if I used the timing light and you were right. Listen people, here you got one of the best mechanics. Thanks for all your help KHLow2008.

Second Problem - Car won't start, just 2 or 3 times more waiting a day or days between starts, I even had the car towed. Then it won't starts anymore. No ecu light code.
I try several things.
1) Measured the coil ohms it was good (I kept a replacement since once I had to changed 2 in less than 2 years).
2) New sparks - same problem
3) Measured several sensors and relay - same problem
4) New fuel filter - same problem (anyway the car needed it).
5) Local mechanic told me it was the ignition module, bought new one - same problem.
6) Another ECU - same problem.
7) New distributor - the way I found out what was the cause. Sellling it now on fleabay.
Finally, it was just the distributor rotor.