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1990 Acura Integra timing

Tiny
JSL129
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 ACURA INTEGRA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 210,000 MILES
I recently had some cyl head work done and replaced the timing belt, water pump, timing tensioner, and a buch of other stuff. I got it all together and it cranked right up. It runs and idles fine but I am hearing a ticking noise. It sounds more like it is comming from the distributer than a knocking valve, but I am not certain. Also, when I touched the distributer, I got shocked for about 5 seconds. I didnt see any loose wires or anything. Also when I rev it up, it is much more hesitant than it was before I took everything apart. What could this ticking noise be and why did I get shocked?
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Monday, March 2nd, 2009 AT 1:16 PM

33 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi jsl129,

There is a leakage of high tension sparks and possible causes are:
1. Faulty or loosely connected plug wire.
2. Shorted spark plugs.
3. Incorrect firing order.
4. Bad distributor cap.
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Monday, March 2nd, 2009 AT 1:49 PM
Tiny
JSL129
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What about the ticking noise? It also has a lack of power. But it does not miss. I never took the wires off of the distributer. I replaced the spark plugs. I dont see any faulty wires anywhere either. Also, what kind of performance should I see if I might have installed the timing belt wrong by one notch on one of the cams?
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Monday, March 2nd, 2009 AT 2:07 PM
Tiny
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The ticking noise could be caused by the sparks jumping. Recheck if the distributor end wire had been propely seated, movement sometimes doslodges them if they were not securely connected in the first place.
Another possibility is the distributor bearing is failing or the timing belt tension is loose.

If the cam timing is off, you would have performance problem, erratic idling and starting might be affected.
Performance drop might not be too much but still noticeable.

Ohm test the plug wires. Should have continuity and below 25k ohms.
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Monday, March 2nd, 2009 AT 2:45 PM
Tiny
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I just replaced the distributor cap, rotor, and plugs and wires. I am still hearing a small ticking noise. It still sounds like its comming from the distributor side. Or the intake cam at least. It does lessen after it has been running for a little while. I also noticed yesterday when I put the pedal to the floor, it was hesitant. Sortof jumped a little. Like a lack of fuel or fouled plugs. The noise also lessened when I put new gas in it. It had about a gallon of gas left in the tank that was about six months old. And I drained it, then put new fuel in and it started running a little better. But didnt fix the problem
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Tuesday, March 10th, 2009 AT 9:13 AM
Tiny
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Did you check the ignition timing after replacing the distributor?

Recheck the valve clearance as well.
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Tuesday, March 10th, 2009 AT 11:42 AM
Tiny
JSL129
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How do I check for valve clearance and the ignition timing. I could see where the distributor was before I took it off and put it back in the same position. I did see that it could be adjusted by turning the distributor. What is the correct position?
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+1
Tuesday, March 10th, 2009 AT 11:49 AM
Tiny
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You need a timing light to check the timing. On the crank pulley you would notice timing marks when the timing light is pointed at it.

The 3 marks with a red one at center is the ignition timing at idle.
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Tuesday, March 10th, 2009 AT 12:24 PM
Tiny
JSL129
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I just did a lot of work to this car. I replaced the spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, water pump, hoses, coolant switch, spark plugs, had the head reworked, installed new timing belt, timing covors, changed all the fluids, fuel pump, gas tank, belts, hoses, and a bunch of gaskets (including head gasket). I was sure to torque it down at the right torque specs. About a week ago, I finished putting everything back together and my valves were making noises. I figured out it was my timing belt. It was a little loose. Right after I cranked it, it ran fine for about 5 minutes, then I hit the gas pedal and it died. I checked the injectors and could hear them pulsing. My check engine light also came on (it was not on before and had run just fine except for the valve noise). After I let it idle for a little while (which it is idling at the lowest point before it dies) I hit the gas and it slowly accelerated. Then I hit the gas and let off several times, the last time I did it, it accelerated to 5 thousand rmps and died. I can crank it right back up, but cannot accelerate the motor. Also, when I was letting it run, it was running at normal operating temperature. I noticed it started burning oil and a saw a puddle of moisture coming out of the tail pipe. It only does this after the car has warmed up. It runs just fine until it warms up at normal operating temperature. My question is what could this be? How can I check the check engine light code?
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Monday, March 30th, 2009 AT 1:01 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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You can read the codes from the ECU.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_Code90Integra01_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_DTC90Integra_1.jpg

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Tuesday, March 31st, 2009 AT 8:16 AM
Tiny
JSL129
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What about the water comming out of the tail pipe? My engine light turned off and only turns on once the car warms up. And it starts acting up once the car warms up also.
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2009 AT 10:14 AM
Tiny
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If you are not losing coolant, water out of tail pipe should be due to condensation collected in exhaust system.

If the weather is cool, the smoke level would increase. This is normal.
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2009 AT 1:00 PM
Tiny
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The water in the exhaust was just condensation, and it was brown due to the rust inside of the pipes. I did a compression test and it showed 145 in cyl 1 and 2 and 135 in cyl 3 and 4. How much should I have? I know I have to do a valve adjustment, but im gonna do that after I finish the timing. I just figured out what made the car run bad when it warmed up. It was the ignition timing. I rotated the dist. While it was running rough and it jumped right back up to idle. I have a timing light and tried to set the timing. I can not find the marks on the crankshaft pulley. I might have rubbed them off by trying to use a chain wrench to pull the pulley off a while back. The chain wrench broke, so I ordered the special tool to take it off. My question is how do I set the ignition timing without marks on the crankshaft pulley. Or what do you think I should do.
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Wednesday, April 15th, 2009 AT 8:53 AM
Tiny
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Without any marks, it would be impossible to get the correct timing.

Recheck the pulley, the timing marks were edged onto the rims and should not be erased unless you have ground them off.

Next best thing is to turn 1st cylinder to TDC and mark on the pulley yourself. This would not be 100 % but at least it would get you as near to the timing as possible.
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Wednesday, April 15th, 2009 AT 9:08 AM
Tiny
JSL129
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If I can find the marks, what mark or deg should I set it at? I am told that there are a few different marks. And an arrow that points to the mark I am currently at. Where is the arrow?
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Wednesday, April 15th, 2009 AT 9:28 AM
Tiny
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Here are the Ignition timing marks and adjusting procedures.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_IgnitionTiming90Integra_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_TimingAdjusting90Integra_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_TimingMark90Integra_1.jpg

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-1
Wednesday, April 15th, 2009 AT 10:02 AM
Tiny
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What is the point of the jumper wire? What does it do? Can you do adjust the timing without using a jumper wire?
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Wednesday, April 15th, 2009 AT 10:16 AM
Tiny
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The jumper would prevent the ECU from readjusting the idling speed which would cause inaccurate timing. Without it you need to stop and restart engine each time you make an adjustment.
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Wednesday, April 15th, 2009 AT 10:44 AM
Tiny
JSL129
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What does the mark signifly on the crankshaft pulley? Is it when cyl#1 is at TDC? My mark has rubbed off and I am having trouble timing my car. Can I put the crankshaft pulley at TDC for cyl#1 and then replace the mark on the crankshaft pulley? Or what do you reccomend?
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Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 AT 10:39 AM
Tiny
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If you can get the TDC for # 1 cylinder, mark it as TDC at the timing cover pointer.

With an adjustable timing light, set it at 16 degrees and when engine is running, the correct timing is achieved when it shows at the pointer. Adjust accordingly.
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Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 AT 12:27 PM
Tiny
JSL129
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I do not have an adjustable timing light. Would it work if I just mark it at tdc? Or do need an adjustable timing light?
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Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 AT 12:35 PM

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