A/C compressor does not kick on

Recheck the power to the compressor after you replace the sensor, unless the compressor comes on of course. And have you had any other codes lately, I think you mentioned p2237?

Okay, let us know if you need any information or wiring diagrams. Hopefully your A/C will lick right on for you. Have a good day.

The resistance reading should be at least 1000-2000 ohms depending on outside temperature. The readings to the ECM depends completely on the resistance of the sensor. It changes the voltage reading going to the ECM to determine outside temperature. Where did you buy the sensor at? And make sure your meter is on the right settings. But you should definitely have some kind of resistance on it. If it's an aftermarket part, it's probably bad. You may want to go to the dealership and get an Acura sensor. The -40 degrees is the default reading from an open wire or sensor. Same with the coolant temp sensor, goes to -40 when open circuit. Edit: there is probably a code stored for that sensor in the body control module or another module. It needs to be cleared when you put a new working sensor in. Edit: a coolant temperature sensor works the same way, resistance changes according to temperature.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-coolant-temperature-sensor-works

Okay, I'm sorry for your frustration with this, these systems are complicated and we do get a lot of bad aftermarket parts. I always recommend getting technical/electronic items like sensors and modules from the dealership. I do believe there is a calibration process as well. I'll be looking for that information for you in the meantime.

It's only a 5 volt circuit, it's probably not enough to light the test light fully. If you're reading 5 volts with your meter it should be okay. If that's the only broken wire you've found, I wouldn't worry about it until you get the new sensor in. If the compressor still doesn't come on, we'll have to figure that out when it comes to it. But that sensor is definitely an input for the A/C system. Check one thing, try putting the defrost on with the A/C, it might bypass that sensor. A/C is used during defrost because it's very dry air and aids in evaporating moisture from the windshield. Just see if the compressor comes on. It may not.

You can put 12 volts to the compressor if it's "unplugged" for a few seconds, if you look on the diagram of the compressor circuit, you can see the light blue wire is the power coming from the relay, but it's risky doing that. If the wire touches anything it will blow a fuse to start with, and you don't want to damage any computer components or burn something up. I don't recommend it. I'm not sure exactly how many wires the compressor has going to it. But it might have a ground wire or pressure solenoid/sensor inside the compressor, and you definitely don't want to damage any of that. I was wondering when did you take those pressure readings from the first picture?

I had to look closer at the picture, the system has even pressures on both sides, which is good. The pressures should even out when the system is off.

Okay, so we'll move on to replacing the sensor and go from there. Provided there's no more wire damage. I think you'll be good to go. I've read that a bad ambient air temperature sensor will cause the compressor to not come on. So I think we're on the right track.

Yes, you can replace the clutch without even taking the belt off. Here are some diagrams with instructions on the proper shim and clearance. Try tapping on the clutch and see if it will free up, you will still need a new one though. As long as your powers and grounds are good, it should turn.

Yup you're correct, the belt does need to come off. Here's the instructions from All Data for A/C clutch replacement procedure.