Working on it and now the A/C stopped working?

Yeah, it should open at 195 and it will open and close as it keeps the engine temperature stable. Are you sure the water pump is working at all? Here is a test to see if its pushing coolant through the radiator. I would check that as well.

It's a terrible design for water pump to have plastic impeller. Hope it goes well with the change.

So, I look for any scratch marks around the area (in Red) where that pintle moves threw that upper section, if it was sticking closed at some points there are usually vertical scratch marks where it jams up when trying to open. You can always boil it in a pot of water as well, water boils at 212f so it should open fully just before boiling point. Looks like some nasty gasket material there too. But let us know if you are still having an over temp issue. Hopefully a new T-stat should resolve the problem.

Well, hopefully you got it taken care of, get on the highway for a few minutes if possible and see if you go over 208, it would be great if that's a fix. Let us know.

I'm not seeing a spec on that temperature, but if the engine is reaching temperatures that high the fan should be on full high speed. There is a bulletin for an updated Hydraulic Fan Solenoid, it should be setting a code for this bulleting (diagram 1), the hydraulic fan can also be bi-directionally controlled with a scan tool, and be set to 100% duty cycle for testing. That is what service info instructs to do. There should also be a live Data PID for the fans current duty cycle and the speed it is running at the time of monitoring. Have you done a chemical test yet to rule out any head gasket possibilities yet? Or any bubbles coming out the radiator opening?
The wiring for the Hydro Fan only shows power, ground, and the control wire from the PCM which is going to be a pulse width modulated control signal (Duty Cycled) to operate the Fan Solenoid. With this system you need scan data to see what the PCM is seeing, and this should show if a skewed sensor is causing the fan to not operate on High or if the PCM is commanding it at 100% and it is not reacting to that command, obviously it is reacting to AC pressure, but there are 3 other inputs the PCM is monitoring when it comes to fan operation. I would have a full system scan done to see if there are any other codes stored in other modules. At 220 to 230 the fan should be on high, if the thermostat is only a 195f degree, it should be wide open and the fan should be blasting on high speed. Are both the upper and lower radiator hoses getting hot?
And do a head gasket test.

So you may be dealing with a wiring issue to the coolant temperature sensor, usually in scan data when you unplug a temp sensor, the live data will read -40 degrees, its the reading the PCM will detect when the circuit goes open, such as when unplugging the sensor, you can try wiggling some of the harness and watching the temp sensor data for any glitches or drop outs. Yes the fan should be running on high at those temps, if you have a temperature measuring tool to see if its actually getting that high, I would check that.
You can also unplug the coolant temp sensor and check the voltage across the 2 pins in the connector for the sensor, when unplugged and Key On, engine off it should read 5volts. The sensor works off a 5volt reference. It possible youre not getting the actual temperature if the sensor is bad or the wiring to it has a problem, just dont spread the pins inside the sensor connector when testing.

Do you have some kind of temperature probe so you can see what the temperature of the thermostat housing actually is? With the sensor unplugged we can see that the fan is capable of going to high speed, and there doesnt seem to be an issue with the 5volt reference. Im wondering if you have some sludge build up somewhere in the cooling system, possibly the radiator if the temp started to come down when you were not moving but still at 2500rpm. Obviously this JTEC control unit is not commanding the fan to 100% based on coolant temp for some reason, but will for AC pressure. Im trying to find more information on what might hinder it from going to High speed on the fan, they list these 4 inputs, Does the coolant temp stay low if the AC is on with the fan on 100% high speed? Or do you still eventually overheat?

Well the JTEC is actually just the PCM, not sure why they have it listed like that, I would still do the head gasket test, they dont cost that much, and at least you can rule that out as a possible cause of the overheating, does your scan tool list battery temperature or transmission oil temperature?

225 seems a bit high to me, heres a little more info on the ECT sensor operations. Does your scan tool have the ability to graph the sensors voltage signal? I have a very old OBD2 scan tool from way back that only reads engine data but surprisingly is able to graph sensors, that way you might be able to actually catch a drop out in the sensors signal.
You can also try a wiggle test of the sensors harness when its plugged in and the engine is running. You may see it glitch out more in that case. Going to a negative number like that is usually almost always the circuit going open, Which is why I asked about the sensors data going to -40 when unplugged. Thats a default temperature that thermistors go to when unplugged, even the intake air temp sensor should do the same for example.
So adding transmission fluid caused the over temp message to disappear?

Your data link connector is in good shape? No pin or wiring issues under the dash there. And are any other sensor readings dropping out that you have noticed? Glitches like that can be tricky, because they don't happen long enough for the PCM to set any codes, which is why we use oscilloscopes to monitor circuits acting like that, a multimeter is absolutely too slow to catch that, and the scan tool is only going to give you a number, but is it happening around the same temperature each time? That ECT just might be failing, it changes resistance according to temperature, but the PCM would need to see the sensor giving inaccurate data for a number of key cycles to set a code for it.
Another possibility is that the ECT sensor signal wire is shorting to ground intermittently and that's what you're seeing in the scan data, most shorts to ground are at contact points in the harness where it is bolt/connected to the engine block or a bracket to hold it secure, and over time engine vibrations cause it to rub threw the conduit and insulation.

Does your infrared temperature probe match the scan tool temp where the ECT sensor is located? You can check the condition of the Battery Temperature sensor since it's one of the four inputs related to fan speed. It doesn't look like it's in a great location. Being under a battery is never a good place. The temperature gauge on the Cluster receives its data from the PCM over the network wiring, so it's not directly from the ECT sensor itself.