Runs sluggish when RPM's are below 3,000?

Tiny
RELATIVE4
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • HONDA CIVIC
I have a '96 Civic EX w/ 105K, 1.6L DOHC. I had a CEL for an upper O2 sensor, and the O2 sensor was too tight in the exhaust manifold to get out, plus the manifold was cracked, so I replaced the manifold as well. The CEL is gone, but now I have a bigger problem.

The car is experience a strangling sort of power loss. At low RPMs it struggles, then "breaks free" and jumps forward, powering almost normally through the upper RPM range.

I'm concerned I screwed up the exhaust line when I was moving the downpipe to clear the manifold. I also wonder if it could be a bad O2 sensor, but I figure that's less likely.

There's also a funny burnt smell.

What do I need to look for?

Thanks,
Billy
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Restrictive exhaust usually doesnt clear up in the higher rpm range. Is that the correct sensor for the position it is in(upper or sensor 1)? Could be a bad sensor if nothing else but an exhaust manifold was done to the car. Ran better before, just had the CEL?What was the exact code that you got out of the comp?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RELATIVE4
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Right you are, it was a bad sensor. Replaced and all is well. Thanks!
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-1
Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DEESCIVIC
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 14,600 MILES
My car seems to lose power when engine cooling fan turns on or when a/c or heater is turned on. It happens when I come to a stop light or simply when car is on and i'm at at a stop.I recently did a tune up oil, plugs, iar and oil filters.I also replaced the intake temperature sensor. What can it be?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
Your car will be down in power when there is a high electrical load on the engine, or if the a/c is on.

You probably just have an older motor that can't keep up anymore. Do a compression test, the numbers are most likely a tad low across the board.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DEVO_2269
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 HONDA CIVIC
1996 Honda Civic Manual

my car was driven through a huge puddle and immediately afterward the check engine light came on. I can tell the engine is bogged down when I accelerate and the car is shaking bad while idling. How do I check for water in my engine? Is there any way this is not going to be an expensive disaster?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
Remove the spark plugs and intake tubing. Ensure ALL the water has evaporated, then I would do a compression test to check if it did do any damage. You may need a new motor.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AXIS
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
  • 1996 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 300,000 MILES
Hi
I have read on some articles that oil additives are bad for hondas. I have been using oil additives almost every oil change for the last 100K miles. What could have been the disadvantage to my engine?At least for now the major problems have not yet arrived, but maybe soon it will. I agree I feel a little loss of power, maybe due to the thickier oil, but I ignored it because I can attain higher top speeds with oil additives on. Pls share some of your knowledge about oil and additives.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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Hi axis,

7 out of 10 Honda engines that I have replaced or overhauled are due to failure of the oiling system, the other 3 are due to overheating.

This problem affects all makes and not Honda alone, Toyota have a sludging problem with a judgement against them. This is most likely aggravated by use of oil tretment.

Just had a Toyota Camry with 80 k on the meter with oil pressure light showing when engine is running. Used some engine flush but only managed to get the light off for a few seconds. Camshaft were running dry. Removed the oil sump and there was a layer of sludge at bottom. Oil strainer was 80 % clogged. Cleaned the strainer and retested, light immediately went off. Any longer and the engine would be history.

When oil treatments are used, they would form a layer on any surface that oil splashes onto. Moving areas would be scraped off but those areas that do not have any friction or movement would have sludge buildup as the supposedly protective layer is sticky. Over time this buildup would increase in thickness.

Regular oil change would prolong the process of buildup but if the oil change interval is far in between and with sporadic driving, it is is going to build up rather fast.

When engine is started regularly, problem might not occur but when it sits without moving for prolonged periods, the caking of sludges dries up and the next time the engine is started, the dried layer flakes off when oil splashes onto them.

This dried up sludge then becomes sticky semi-solids which would clog up the oil strainer as the strainer holes were already partially clogged by now.

Why can't you attain top speed without oil treatment? Only reason is if the engine condition is bad. For a new engine, with ot without, I don't see any difference, unless you are using low quality oils.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AXIS
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
Tnx a lot. It has been very informative. All the while I thought oil treatment would prolong engine life and prevent costly repairs, just as the product claims. For the top speed, im not sure, maybe because it has 300K on it. Im only using Castrol 10W-30. Oil here in saudi arabia is cheap.16 US dollars/gallon for Castrol, cheaper for the other brands. From now on, I will not use oil treatment.I'll take the advice of the pros.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Castrol is a branded oil and I have been using their product for more than 20 years. I have never had any engine failure due to their product and I do not recommend oil treatments.

A good engine oil would help to remove the sludge from the engine and oil should be drained immediately after running the engine. This would prevent the sludge from sinking to the bottom of the oil pan.

Not many mechanics would tell you not to use oil treatments as it would reduce their source of revenue.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAIMECAR7
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 HONDA CIVIC
1995 Honda Civic 4 cyl Automatic 146000 miles

I recntly bought a 1995 Honda Civic, It was working fine until I had the timing belt done. Now the car seems to lack with acceleration. I have to push the gas pedal completely in to go a mere 30mph for about 20-25 seconds, after it hits 60mph it seems to be fine but as soon as I slow down to about 50mph, I get the same problem.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi Jaimecar7,

I believe the timing belt has not been correctly installed and you need to recheck/realign it.

Use a timing light to confirm if the ignition timing is way off the markt
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TSS31
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
  • 1995 HONDA CIVIC
Engine Performance problem
1995 Honda Civic 4 cyl Automatic

can anyone help me? I have a 95 civic with an aftermarket exaust on it, sometimes when I am driving the engine lacks power its like I push the gas peddle and the car doesnt want to go past about 5 miles an hr. It moves a little if I take my foot off the gas, and when I turn the car off then on it seems to reset it, it doesnt happen all the time but when it does the rpms drop and it feels like if I keep pushing the gas it will backfire or something, the rpms also move up and down when I release my foot off the gas like the engine is surging I guess? Any help will be great? Thank you!
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TSS31
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Well I was googling away and tested my codes by sticking a paperclip into my two prong connector and got the reading of TDC so I went online and read all about it and everyone seems to have the same problems and symptoms as me, so I suppose as soon as I have the time I will try the tdc sensor, thanks so much for your help!
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DRO85
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 1995 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 800 MILES
When I accelerate half way it goes but not like it should. When I give it more gas it makes a light whistle sound from the left of the engine and feels like its held back. I just got it rebuilt it has 800 miles. Not sure if the sound is what makes it slow. I did drop the distributor before I installed it? Also when im in 5th gear and try to accelerate it bogs and has no power then when I give it more gas it opens up and goes like it wasnt gettin gas or something? Again it always feels like it should be much faster? I have new spark plugs and wires. Any advice will help thanks :)
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi dro85,

Did you check the igntion timing?

If it is bogging down at high speed, check the fuel filter and pressure.

As to the whistling noise, if it is being produced while engine is being revved, check the belt tensions, overtensioned adjustment can produce such noises.

Try to locte the source with the aid of a hose acting as stethoscope.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DRO85
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thank u! I will check these out asap :)
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DRO85
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I did drop my distributor on the ground when taking it off would that damage it enough to act like this?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DROPPED95CIVIC
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1995 HONDA CIVIC
Engine Performance problem
1995 Honda Civic 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 100k miles

95 honda civic b16a motor great power loss changed plugs wires cap rotor coil igniter but no power
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)

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