Runs sluggish when RPM's are below 3,000?

Tiny
KENNY BOWEN
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 200,000 MILES
EX model, five speed d16y8. It drives perfectly fine, but after I drive the car around for like an hour between 2,000 to 3,000 RPM's it starts to act sluggish when a m driving normally. If I step on the gas more and shift around 5,000 RPM's then it is good because the RPM's don't drop below 3,000.
Sunday, March 31st, 2019 AT 5:53 PM

48 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,758 POSTS
Hello and thank you for using 2CarPros.

This could be the result of a lot of different things. With that, have you checked fuel pump pressure? Have you checked for engine vacuum leaks? Is the catalytic converter original? It could be starting to plug. Is the check engine light staying on when the engine is running?

Lets start with those things. First, if the check engine light is staying on, the computer should be scanned to identify trouble codes. Here is a quick video showing how that is done:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner. If that is the case, most parts stores will do it for free, so have it done if the light is on.

Next, I need you to first make sure there are no engine vacuum leaks. Here is a link that shows how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Take a look through these links. They discuss the symptoms of a bad catalytic converter and how to check one.La

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Last is a fuel pressure test. Here is a link that shows in general how one is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the specific directions for fuel pressure testing. The attached picture correlates with these directions.

_________________________________-

COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
Inspection
1. Relieve fuel pressure.

picture 1

2. Remove the service bolt on the fuel filter while holding the banjo bolt with another wrench. Attach the special tool.
3. Start the engine. Measure the fuel pressure with the engine idling and the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator and pinched. If the engine will not start, turn the ignition switch ON (II), wait for two seconds, turn it off, then back on again and read the fuel pressure.

Pressure should be: 260 - 310 kPa (2.7 - 3.2 kg/Sq.cm, 38 - 46 psi)

4. Reconnect vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator.

Pressure should be: 200 - 250 kPa (2.0 - 2.5 kg/Sq.cm, 28 - 36 psi)

If the fuel pressure is not as specified, first check the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is OK, check the following:
- If the fuel pressure is higher than specified, Inspect for:
- Pinched or clogged fuel return hose or line.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
- If the fuel pressure is lower than specified, inspect for:
- Clogged fuel filter.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
- Fuel line leakage.

__________________________

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Sunday, March 31st, 2019 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
KENNY BOWEN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I don't know if it will make a difference in your suggestions, but there are no warning lights on the cluster. I barely bought the car two months ago and no engine light or anything has came on since I have owned the car.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 6:27 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,758 POSTS
Welcome back:

Do me a favor. When the key is first turned to the run position, the light should come on for a few seconds and then go off. See if it does.

Let me know what you find.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 7:07 PM
Tiny
KENNY BOWEN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
All the warning lights work.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 8:48 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,758 POSTS
Okay, then the light is working. I would start with checking the converters. If they are partially plugged, you will notice it the higher the RPM's get.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 9:09 PM
Tiny
KENNY BOWEN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
It drives good in higher RPMS. It acts up between 2-3,000 but after I get above 3,000 it drives perfectly fine.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 10:13 PM
Tiny
KENNY BOWEN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I did a compression test and cylinder one was 150. Cylinder two was 180. Cylinder three was 120. Cylinder four was like 175.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 12:40 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,758 POSTS
Welcome back:

I have to be honest. The compression doesn't look good. Standard reading should be 135-184 psi. The maximum variation between cylinders is 28 psi. You are below the minimum on cylinder 3 and the max variation of 28psi is exceeded in two cylinders. Have you tried a wet test?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 5:58 PM
Tiny
KENNY BOWEN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
No, I forgot to do the wet test, but the spark plugs in cylinder three and four looks a little burnt. I didn't do a fuel pressure test because I wasn't quite sure how to do it on my car. I looked online to find videos and what not but their was nothing showing me how to do it specifically on my car.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 7:45 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,758 POSTS
Welcome back:

Between all of us here, we can usually get what you need, so never worry about asking. I don't have a video, but I do have the directions for testing along with the fuel pressure specs.

First, here is a link that shows how in general it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the specific for your vehicle. The attached pic correlates:

Inspection
1. Relieve fuel pressure.

See Picture 1

2. Remove the service bolt on the fuel filter while holding the banjo bolt with another wrench. Attach the special tool.
3. Start the engine. Measure the fuel pressure with the engine idling and the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator and pinched. If the engine will not start, turn the ignition switch ON (II), wait for two seconds, turn it off, then back on again and read the fuel pressure.

Pressure should be: 260 - 310 kPa (2.7 - 3.2 kg/Sq.cm, 38 - 46 psi)

4. Reconnect vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator.

Pressure should be: 200 - 250 kPa (2.0 - 2.5 kg/Sq.cm, 28 - 36 psi)

If the fuel pressure is not as specified, first check the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is OK, check the following:
- If the fuel pressure is higher than specified, Inspect for:
- Pinched or clogged fuel return hose or line.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
- If the fuel pressure is lower than specified, inspect for:
- Clogged fuel filter.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
- Fuel line leakage.

_____________________________

Let me know if this helps.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 5th, 2019 AT 5:43 PM
Tiny
AXIS
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
  • 1996 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 312,500 MILES
Im not sure what is the engine displacement on my civic. All the while, I thought it was 1.6L. Only lately I have seen on the internet 1.5L, 1.8L, 2.0L engine sizes.I bought the car used. No owners manual, no underhood sticker. Trunk has only the honda logo and civic attached to it, no model indicated(lx, ex, SiR, vti). Are there any way to determine the displacement aside from measuring the bore and stroke?
I need the info for purchasing spare parts. Tnx.
P.S. Car has no power steering, no power windows, no central lock and alarm. Top speed 190kph/118mph. RPM max, around 6000.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
The engine code would tell you the engine model.

At front of engine near the transmission you would see the engine code and serial number.

D15? = 1.5 L
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AXIS
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
That was very helpful.
It was there, D15B.
On my spare engine, it was D15Z4.
Whats the difference between the two?
If I replace the engine with a higher displacement, say 1.8 or 2.0, what are the other parts I need to replace?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
The engine wire harness, ECM/PCM, transmission and drive axles are the items you have to contend with.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AXIS
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
The engine currently mounted on the car is D15b.
It seems my engine was changed before I bought it.
The link states that rev limiter is 7200rpm,
I have installed an aftermarket tachometer and I could reach only 6000rpm.
Do I need to change the ECU same as the model from which that engine came from so that I could reach 7200rpm? Or other civic models will be enough to do the job.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OZZY89
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1996 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
So I'm having a problem with my 96' Honda Civic, MB1 model. The car starts as well as normal car. But a few days ago, while I'm driving, the car starts loosing power until is dead, and then don't start again for a while (a long while, sometime I just think that it starts again by pure luck). I don't think there is any problem with the electrical part of the car because, well, it starts! So I'm supposing that is the injectors or the fuel pump. If you could assist me on where might be the problem and how to solve it, I'd be very grateful.
Sorry for the lack of technical language, if there is any additional information that I can provide, just ask me!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
The PCM is the controlling component for rev limiter and you need the correct PCM to get the desired results. There are various DB15 engines and their PCM might differ.

What you need is a PM5 or P04 ECU to have the rev limiter at 7200.
If the PCM on vehicle is the correct one, you would need to check the TPS adjustment.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,758 POSTS
When it dies and won't restart, I need you to check fuel pump pressure and check for spark. Whichever you check first isn't working, there is no need to continue. If you need directions on how to do this, let me know or go to our homepage under the repair and service and select either video or guides for directions. Once you do it, tell me what you find.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AXIS
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
Tnx again for all the valuable info. Next weekend ill check the PCM and TPS.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
You're welcome.

Have a nice day.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links