Engine revs?

Is it slipping(free reving)or just stuck in too low a gear?

Can you get codes from CEL read?

Too fast an idle speed. If an engine without computerized idle speed control is idling too fast and refuses to come down to a normal idle speed despite your best efforts to back off the carburetor idle speed screw or air bypass adjustment screw (fuel injection), air is getting past the throttle somewhere. Common leak paths include the carburetor and throttle body gaskets, carburetor insulator spacers, intake manifold gaskets, and of course, any of the engine's vacuum fittings, hoses and accessories. It is even possible that leaky O-rings around the fuel injectors are allowing air to leak past the seals. Another overlooked item can be a worn throttle shaft and a defective idle speed speed control motor/valve stuck in the extended (high idle speed) position/throttle position sensor. Also the throttle plate could be binding in its bore and kinked accelerator cable, coolant temperature sensor might not be operating properly misleading the computer that the engine is still cold and computer throwing fuel at it raising the idle speed

The idle air control valve sends input signal to the computer so it can target the idle speed this is not happening-I recommend you clean it out and see what happens. If it continues replace it

Check fuses for the radio would be a 1st step
do you have check engine light on and if so get the codes
let me know

For all practical purposes, your radio is not repairable. You have either the cassette version or the cd version AM / FM radio. These are built by Chrysler with a microprocessor made by North American Philips, (NAP), the same people who make the really crappy Magnavox and Philips tvs. These microprocessors have a 100 percent failure rate. I have the special equipment to replace them, but then the software has to be "burned in" for the specific application. They will never sell me the expensive equipment to do that.

There is a list of about 30 different symptoms these radios develop, from going dead for five seconds when moving a tone control, loss of volume, no response when changing stations, etc. But by far, the most common symptom is flashing yellow leds in the tone controls, a thumping in the speakers, and the radio is dead. I have about 20 of these here already. The only difference from your description is all the radios I've ever seen with these problems have three tone controls, not two. If yours indeed has only two tone controls, I'd like to know the model number so I can add it to my list.

The good news is there are other radios built by Mitsubishi that are very high quality and are a direct replacement. There is one model of cassette player that has the same three tone controls with yellow leds, looks exactly the same except it has one extra button for "Scan", uses the same plugs, and will run the same optional cd changer. These sell for around $70.00 on eBay because used car dealers all over the country are looking for them to fix cars on their lots.

This is also a good time to upgrade to a cd / cassette combo. These are built by Mitsubishi too, and they look the same and run remote cd changers too. They typically sell for $175.00 to $225.00 which is considerably less than the cost of repairing a cassette player through the authorized service centers.

The higher end cd-only units are mostly built by Alpine. They have a lot more trouble than the Mitsubishi radios, and Alpine will not allow the repair centers to sell me parts or service manuals. I can still fix them but it takes longer.

It is quite common for radios like yours to develop problems when something else happens such as disconnecting the battery or having a charging system problem. My feeling is the other problem did not cause the radio failure, but it might have hurried it up a little. Most of these radios didn't last this long either; almost all have failed by now. You have to watch what you buy for a used one because you don't want to get another one that has the same problem.

The Mitsubishi radios are much higher quality than anything you'll find in the aftermarket, and they're pretty easy to replace. No silly programming is required like on GM cars. If you can't find a suitable replacement, holler back for more information. I sell and repair these at the nation's second largest old car show swap meet, and I repair them for dealers around WI.

Caradiodoc
caradiodoc@verizon. Net

Try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner the make sure battery terminal ends are clean and free of corrosion. You should have belt and tensioner checked as recommended replacement is 60,000 miles for both as tensioner loses tension and belt has to be checked with a gauge not cracks.