The battery light on?

Hello,

What happens is you need to use Motorcraft or AC Delco replacement parts in order for the truck to operate correctly. Here is a guide to help walk you through the steps of change the alternator and the wiring diagrams below so you can see how it works and a guide to help you test the connections as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

Check for power at the fuse as well. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

Here is a link that explains how to check for alternator output. Take a look through it and see if it helps.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

Let me know if you have questions.

Joe

Hi:
That is certainly a problem. However, I need more information. Please start a new link specific to your vehicle's problems (over charging) and include the engine size and any information you feel is relevant to the problem.

I will watch for your reply.

Joe

Please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Cheers, Ken

If you mean the pulley is not perfectly parallel and square to the belt and the other pulleys, that is not correct. It is one of the things we have to look for when diagnosing a belt squeal problem. Ford has up to six service bulletins to try to solve belt squeals on their trucks, and I am told they do not help. If you can see that a pulley is turned or tipped, that is a real lot and must be corrected.

As for the "battery" light, that means the charging system is not recharging the battery while you are driving. The generator is just one part of that system. The person who replaced the generator should be figuring out why his diagnosis was wrong or was only part of the problem. We do not just change a part, then send you on your way with the problem still there. The most overlooked cause is a blown 15-amp fuse feeding the voltage regulator. A few voltage tests at the regulator's plug will verify that.

TEST D: WARNING INDICATOR IS ON WITH ENGINE RUNNING, SYSTEM IS CHARGING
Check Fault Codes In PCM

Connect New Generation Star (NGS) tester to Data Link Connector (DLC). Turn ignition on. Using NGS tester, perform Powertrain Control Module (PCM) self-test. If no DTCs are retrieved, go to next step. If any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are retrieved, perform appropriate test in accordance with DTC retrieved. See appropriate SELF-DIAGNOSTICS article in ENGINE PERFORMANCE.
Check System For Overcharging

Start engine. With the engine running and all accessories off, measure the voltage at the battery terminals while varying the engine RPM. Is the voltage greater than 15.5 volts? If yes, go to TEST C: SYSTEM OVERCHARGES. If no, go to next step.
Check PCM PIDs

Enter the MONITOR PCM PIDS diagnostic mode on NGS tester. With the engine running, monitor the generator output fault PID in the PCM. Does the PID read YES? If yes, go to next step. If no, see appropriate ANALOG INSTRUMENT PANELS article in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT.
Check Generator Output

Check generator output. Perform GENERATOR LOAD TEST and GENERATOR NO-LOAD TEST under ON-VEHICLE TESTING. Is the generator okay? If yes, go to next step. If no, install a new generator. See GENERATOR under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION.
Check For Correct PCM Operation

Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM connector. Check for corrosion and pushed-out pins. Connect any disconnected connectors. Make sure all other system connectors are fully seated. Operate the system and verify the concern is still present. Is the concern still present? If yes, install a new PCM. See COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS in appropriate REMOVAL & INSTALLATION article in ENGINE PERFORMANCE. Repeat the PCM self-test. If no, the system is operating correctly at this time. Concern may have been caused by a loose or corroded connector. Clear the DTCs. Repeat the self-test.

Not real likely, but it could easily be a bad connection up front on the battery or alternator or even at the main junction box. I would go over each one, clean it and tighten them down with a dab of dielectric grease to keep corrosion at bay. Also, before you remove the connections give each a firm tug. I have seen a lot of wire connections that look "perfect" that were corroded internally and fell apart when pulled.

If the light is on, that indicates there is a charging problem. Have the alt tested at a parts store. Most will do it for free.

Let me know what you find.

You are very welcome. I'm glad to have helped. Let us know if you have questions in the future.

Joe

Your first step is to make sure battery terminals are clean and shiny. If good then next step is to do a voltage drop test. Here is a link to performe the test.

Voltage Drop Testing the Charging System" on YouTube.
https://youtu.be/_B0LjwQbUbg

Normal readings on positive side is 0.02 volts and ground side 0.01 volts. The side with the highest voltage will be the problem area.

So for example, if ground cable measures 3 volts then your ground cable has high resistance. Trace the other end of the ground cable and check for burn marks or corrosion, loose connections and correct the problem. Same for positive side. Let us know what your readings are.

Hello,

They did not get back to us but I can say if you have replaced both the battery and alternator let's check the fuses ( #11, and #111) that control the system. Here is a guide to help us get started and the alternator wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (below). Please run this test and get back to us.