Engine has trouble starting

Going to need more info, Is it a crank no start when failing, if so you are going to have to see what is missing,(spark, fuel, injector pulse), that will give you a direction to start diagnosing. this guide can help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Please run down this guide and report back.

Same problem. Changed the crank sensor, harmonic balance, ignition modual, and a new fuel pump still no spark.

A week ago car began to start hard like. I shut it down wiggled some wires tapped on fuel rail and pressure regulator and it started. I let it run over an hour drove it couple miles ran great. So I shut it off and has not started sense. Cranks over strong I tried security fix, then tried to start in neutral both to no avail. Did not have fuel pressure gauge, but seemed like very little pressure out of release valve. So I replaced fuel pump and fuel filter. Way more pressure, but still just cranks. I kept on charger while working on it. I am going to check spark today, I mean wires and coils look good, but we know that can be deceivin. I just do not understand ran for hour now no fire just crank. I have been researching everything about these cars. Do not know what way to take could spark plugs go from running to fouled from cranking motor? Could it be pressure regulator causing no start? Crank sensors? Please help

Car cranks for a long time with no start. I turn the key off and crank some more and no start. I finally get a start on the third try. Next time I want to start the car I turn it on, then off, then on, then off, then on and then I try to crank it over and it starts right up. This tells me it is not getting enough fuel when it only gets one pulse to the injectors. It needs three pulses (key on, key off) to start. Does this mean the injectors are partially clogged? I should mention the car runs great once it starts. I have 50 psi at the fuel port (gauge attached) so fuel pressure is not a problem and it does not leak down. If it is the initial pulse not providing enough fuel, how do I fix this? Currently, I put Seafoam in a quarter tank of fuel. That has not made a difference yet. What do you think?

Security light is not on. CEL is not on. There are no codes. I found on other sites that the normal range is between 40 PSI and 60 PSI, which indicates the fuel pump is okay. When I hook up the fuel pressure gauge and turn the key on the pressure is right there. It is not like the pressure takes time to build up. Bam, it is right there. The pressure regulator is good. The problem is the initial pulse being too little to start the car. As I said. I turn the key on and off three times and the car starts okay. Once started it has plenty of power. A bad fuel pump would not have the guts this car has. Thanks, but I believe the fuel pump is okay.

I will try that tomorrow. I have read elsewhere that people have solved it by trying a different MAP sensor. Sounds unlikely but I am going to check the voltages on the MAP tomorrow. I also read that the engine temp sensor data affects the length of the initial injector pulse, which seems to be the problem. Pulse too short.

Today I took off the MAF sensor and inserted a tube past the throttle butterfly and squirted gas in. I put the MAF back in and it fired right up. So, it is the lack of a fuel pulse or sufficient one on start up keeping it from starting. I did check the voltages on the MAP and they are normal.4.96v key on.1.12v at idle. I took the engine temp connector apart and ohmed it out. I got around 1000 ohms between the yellow and black wires. That seems about right as the engine was not quite warmed up yet. Besides, the dashboard temp indicator works. I can actually start it after just turning the key on twice.I think the residual fumes from the gas I squirted in are causing this. Well, I still think the problem is due to the initial fuel pulse being insufficient to start it on the first try. What do you think?

I will try that tomorrow.

I had some time so I checked the injectors. They all read about 12ohms. I give up. I can live with turning the key a few times to get it started. I want to thank you and HMAC300 for responding.

Here is an update. I took the GP for a 60 mile ride and then the car started like it used to. I just touch the key and boom it starts. This lasted for a few days and now it's back to turn the key on, turn the key off three times to get it to start. I am now convinced it is either a bad ground or a flakey connection somewhere. I don't know where all the ground connections are. The starter works fine so I am assuming it is a small ground somewhere possibly related to the PCM. Does anyone know where all the ground points are?

Thanks. I will check those tomorrow.

My 99 Grand Prix GTP (3.8 Supercharged) is difficult to start. I have to keep cranking on it before it tries to fire and even then I have to be quick on the throttle to keep it running. When starting, I will turn on the key and listen for the fuel pump to stop running before I attempt to start it. My service engine light is not on, but I'm not sure if it may not be burnt out. It doesn't run super smooth after being started. I just don't even know where to begin looking for the problem.

I had the computer scanned for codes and my fuel pressure checked. Fuel pressure built to 50 psi and held. The codes that I got were:

P0650 Malfunction Indicator Light Control Circuit
P1374 3x Reference Circuit

I have been searching to find what these codes actually mean or some troubleshooting guidance.