Engine shuts off while driving?

AABUNDS

MEMBER
1 POST

Have you tried starting it without the fuel lid cover? The most covers have a non spillage protection and takes in air when there is vaccum in the system. It might be that system that is defective in the cover.

Just a thought, I tried it on a Diesel car several years ago.

SPONSORED LINKS

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:16 AM (Merged)

JKA19

MEMBER
1 POST
2000 HYUNDAI ACCENT

2000 Hyundai Accent 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 254k miles

The car turns off as soon as it warms up. It doesnt over heat it just turns off as soon as it warms up to where its suppose to. Won't turn back on until the car completely cools down.

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)

ALAN36

MEMBER
4 POSTS

Have you tried replacing the ECM. This is the brain box under the dash. It maybe overheating and shutting you down. The Part will cost about $775 from the dealer or you can go to a junk yard and get it about $30 just ask for the ECM and not the brain box. You can use any from 2000-2002 Hyundai accents. If you try this please post if it works.

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)

LOULOUQ

MEMBER
1 POST
2000 HYUNDAI ACCENT

Engine Performance problem
2000 Hyundai Accent Two Wheel Drive Manual 70000 miles

Hi, I've owned this car for 8 months and the engine light has rarely been off- it regularly judders and stalls when I pull away from stationary. I've had it looked at by a garage and so far have had a new catalytic converter, stepper motor (is this AKA an idle speed actuator?), 2 sets of spark plugs and leads, 2 new lamber sensors and 2 new coil packs- none of which has made any difference! The engine light is still on and the fault codes are 1513 and 1553 which seems to be "idle speed actuator (open) open" and idle speed actuator (close) open". What does this mean and what do I need to do to fix it! Any advice gartefully received before I take a big stick to the car and beat it!

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,867 POSTS

Don't beat it with a stick. However, I know the feeling.

The number one cause of misfires on this engine is the plug wires themselves. Usually, they track somewhere out the side of the plastic insulator that goes inside the plug tube.

With the engine off, pull each plug wire off the plug and just rest back on the plug without clipping it back in place. Then start the engine and pull each wire off the plug separately and return. When you pull the wire off the plug, you should see spark jump from the end of the wire to the plug terminal. If it leaves the wire anywhere other than the end of the wire, then you'll need new wires. If it arcs at the coil, you'll need a new coil. If it arcs between the coil tower and wire boot, you're probably best off replacing the coil and wires.

Also, you may want to check for vacuum leaks. The PCV has a history of leaking causing a lean mixture and setting this code. If everything I mentioned looks good, chances are the idle air actuator is bad.

Let me know if you have other questions, and thanks for using 2carpros. Com.

Joe
PS: Make sure the plug wires go back to the same plug, Don't mix them up.