My heater is not working?

Tiny
JLOMORENO
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 DODGE STRATUS
Good morning I put into the radiator a little bottle that seal leaks(autozone bought) but after that, the heater doesn't work some line could be obstructed?

Thanks Jlo
Friday, December 4th, 2015 AT 11:25 AM

29 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
It may have obstructed the heater core, check both hoses for hot then pull hvac fuse inside car or under hood for 60 seconds with key on . it may be an actuator problem. This guide will help us see what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Friday, December 4th, 2015 AT 12:21 PM
Tiny
SROARK1002
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 DODGE STRATUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 128,000 MILES
I recently had the coolant outlet flange(the housing on top of my engine that holds the tep guage for my coolant) snap in half. A part that was designed to fail if ever there was one. Since it snapped and I overheated a little I replaced the thermostat and then figured out my bottom radiator hose had a slow leak as well so I replaced it. The initial thermostat I bought wasn't opening so I had to replace it again. The coolant syatem is now back together and holding temp(although higher than before but I atribute this to the old guage being less accurate?) At highway speeds but I have absolutely no heat? Any thoughts why this might be so?
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Is coolant bleed valve open during filling?
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Have you bled the cooling system?
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SROARK1002
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I did initally air lock thesystem I believe but have bled it repeatedly now. Should I completely drain the system and try again? I initially assumed I had air locked the system so have consiqueently bled it a couple times. Before the flange burst the system would regulate at 3 8 on the guage now it goes up to 3 4 and holds at 70 and then when I back down to 55 or below usually below 2000 rpm it modulates between a half and 3 4 on the guage.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRICKET71
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 DODGE STRATUS
  • 215,000 MILES
The engine has antifreeze and the antifreeze reserve tank is full. Had some new hoses put in last year around the intake and radiator. There is no heat coming out, it just shoots out cold air when trying to defrost the windows. The A/C works fine. Had work done last yr to the intake and radiator hoses, it kept overheating and the hoses got fried from the overheated water and antifreeze.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Chek both hoses for being hot or equal temp when engine is warmed up then you'll hav eto see if your actuator in the hvac unit is working or not. They are either electric or vacuum. Generic pic enclosed.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ORBILLINGS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 DODGE STRATUS
We have a 2004 Dodge Stratus SE with 45,000 miles on the 2.4L 4cyl. It runs great, except that after it's been running for 15-20 minutes the heater stops blowing luxuriously warm air and starts blowing bone-chilling cold air. It seems that the temp gauge tends to rise a little at this point, too. Not to the dreaded RED zone, but it drifts to the warmer end of the spectrum. We're tired of the engine hogging all that warmth and want it on our chilled hands! It seems to have enough antifreeze, could this be as simple as a new radiator cap? How about a new thermostat? I'll stop guessing because we're not car geniuses (obviously) so please use small words for us. :Wink: Thank you!
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
If the engine is full of coolant and warmed up, the only thing that would make it go cold is if the blend door under the dash is slowly leaking vacuum down and going to cold position or if there is an air pocket in the cooling system that works its way to the heater core
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GACFLIGHT
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 DODGE STRATUS
2.7L eng. There is no heat coming from heater. Thermostat changed. Noticed temp gage does not move and it appears I have no coolant flowing through hoses. Bleed valve opened to release air after 10 mins of running still no flow, heat or temp on gage
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Recheck the thermostat, Are you overheating?
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GACFLIGHT
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thermostat just installed yesterday. As far as overheating, no indication per the temp gage. Nor do I see any usual signs of overheating. I have only run the car for about 10 mins for fear of overheating.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
If there's no coolant flow-the water pump could be defective or the radiator is clogged-up
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOUGLASDIXON
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 2004 DODGE STRATUS
  • 100,000 MILES
Just had installed a thermostat (high difficulty). Car takes forever to warm-up, absolutely no heat inside either. Never seen anything like this. Thermostat was install by highly rated shop. ($200) It takes about 30 minutes to get heat inside!
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
How was it before the thermostat replacement?
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOUGLASDIXON
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
It blew the upper radiator hose/coolant switch housing (plastic) they do this a lot from what I've dug up on the web. So that was repaired along with the new thermostat. Unless the water-pump is in the process of failing, (2.7 they are a mess, up in the engine, driven by timing chain). It started to make a rattling noise upon initial start-up and soon quiets down. I know the bearings in these don't last much longer than 70,000, this one just turned100,000. It set off a code twice; P0128 engine wasn't warming up fast enough. Freeze-frame data stated only 165 degrees @ 80 mph, and 3,000 rpm. Fuel trims looked good. This thing takes forever to warm-up. (30min or more, and no inside heater for at least 40min.) All the coolant levels are correct. I work on cars for a living and have never come across anything like this.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
The water pump is working pretty good right now if it takes takes that long heat up. Sounds like defective thermostat I have had ones right out of the box even name brand ones like stants. That's the only thing I can think of because if the coolant wasn't circulating till the thermostat opened at the correct temp then thecoolant would warm up a lot quicker. Or there iisn't a thermostat in the engine at all. That's the only two things I can think of.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOUGLASDIXON
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Yes, that was the only thing I could think of also. Due to the difficulty of replacing the stat' on this model, (its a real bear) I just wanted to throw this problem out there before I go back in to replace the stat' again. I agree with you that it doesn't seem to even have a stat' in it, or like you say, it's stuck wide open. Or the possibility of being installed incorrectly, or the wrong part even. It was done at a reputable shop. So, I guess it fell into my lap now. I always get the hard ones!
But I want to thank you very much for your time and thoughts on this matter as its nice to have someone to throw ideas around with. And you can be sure that I'll be throwing the next stat' in some boiling water before installing!
Thanks again!
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
So how did it go you find the problem?
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
618MURRAY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hello there!
I am having the same problems. I have found a couple of interesting things: First, there is a special procedure for bleeding down the cooling system, it says to consult the dealer for details in the manual out of glove box. I will add that it says it is imperative to do so. Just go to ask. Com and put in special proceedure for coolant on a 2.7. I am hoping that is the problem for me.
I have just boiled the thermostat in water on the range with digital thermometer, they both checked good (new and old). This is very strange. I have also noticed the temp gauge in the car is not reaching HOT, a matter of fact the thing is setting about half way. My thoughts were that the system is not bleed correctly and there is a air pocket somewhere keeping it from circulating through the upper housing where the temp sensor is, ( not even letting the fans kick on) if this is so, I am hopping that I never over heated enough to cause damage to say the oil pump, heads, gaskets, etc. Well, I am awaiting a part, (timing chain tensioner) from ebvay. Then I will know more. These are just my thoughts and findings to this point.
I would recommend being very leery of running and thinking the inside temp says fine and well, check your lower radiator hose. Mine is cold, that is not good. This lead me to pulling the water pump(NIGHTMARE:(((( Turned out the water pump was fine, but the seal was a little rough and the tensioner had a little build up on it. Please keep this going and let me know what you all find. Thanks in advance! I will do the same.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)

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