I appreciate your advice and I followed the instructions on your answer. I don't see any issues but for the wires that were burned from chafing.
This all started from what I thought was a issue with my new aftermarket backup camera. Fuse 45 kept blowing. Consequently no gauges no throttle. Like a dumb-a** I put in a stronger fuse. That's when the smoke started and after diving in to this over the last two weeks, it wasn't the backup camera at all but a short in the column. Okay, I beat myself up enough over the fuse but when I replaced the shifter arm and nothing had changed. I bought OBD11 code reader but it says not connected to ECU.
Now I suspected TPS as in the early days I had the similar problem and Ford recalled it. Since I wasn't getting anywhere I wrongly decided I would try my power tester on the TPS. Forcing 12v to the pedal to check gauges. Gauges swung up briefly so I bought a new one. Okay? I know what your going to say and I already know I shouldn't be poking around when I don't know what I am doing but truck is broke and stuck, bla bla. When I turn on the key I would usually hear a click under the hood. No more. Click is gone so I changed the relay hoping that would help. My click is not back so not sure what else could have popped.
My last thought before plunging in to new ECM is ignition relay. But I don't know how to test it. I did take apart ECM but nothing seemed burnt. I did smell "burnt" under dash so thought ignition relay but it doesn't seem burnt. I would pay a mechanic to come to me but none around. Tow bill and ECU at Ford with the history I just explained could give them a open ticket to charge whatever they want. I thought it would be cheaper to throw parts at it first. At least I wont have to pay labor for that part if I am forced to have it towed, but what parts? Now that you know the story. I'm a long way from a mechanic so so far it is cheaper. Thanks for any help. I'm stuck, and stranded.
Sunday, May 19th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM
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