Has fuel, has spark, why wont it start?

First of all, when are you expecting to hear the fuel pump run? It must not run unless the engine is rotating, (cranking or running), and for one second after turning on the ignition switch.

It is very unlikely the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor failed at the same time, so look for something they have in common, and that is their 5 volt supply voltage. Check the three voltages on one of those sensors with the ignition switch on and tell me what you find.

When I returned my car would not start

Get a starting fluid/ether/better off gas in a spray bottle and spray into the carb or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and die? If not disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, ECM, Ignitor cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Start by checking what is missing causing the non-starting.

What stays on after a jump start? What is that fuse for, or what doesn't work and what does work when it blows? Does the starter crank the engine when the fuse is blown?

It sounds like it could have a plugged up exhaust system, please disconnect it at the exhaust manifold and recheck. Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

The pump may have seized. The gas is a lubricant for the pump. When you run out of gas the pump will seize.

Roy

There are several possibilities;

The transmission pump or leaking internal seal or o-ring
Shifter adjustment to assure each indicated gear puts the gear switch into the proper detent/position.

The gear shift safety lockout between the brake pedal and the shifter switches may have failed or need adjustment.

I am attaching several diagrams and tests to help with the diagnostics.

As far as the suspension goes, I cannot see any suspension isssues that would keep a transmission from shifting. It would have to be a major damage or defect issue. It could also possibly be the axle on the transmission side.

The first thing I would suggest is to go to an Advance Auto or an Auto Zone and have them run the trouble codes. They will generally do this for free.
Come back to use when you get the codes.

Excellent, I am glad to hear you got it all straightened out.
The loose bolt and nut on the control arm is a little scaryy.
Did you use LocTite on the nut when you put it back together just to be safe?

Hi j-rod2,

Symptoms indicates the ignition lock is faulty preventing you from turning the ignition key to the start position.

Try spraying some WD-40 into the key slot and wiggling the key to see if it works. If yes, the lock is faulty and has to be replaced.