You need some punctuation in that huge sentence, otherwise it can be read at least three different ways, and none of them make sense.
You think there's no broken or frayed wires because the windows used to work sometimes? That's exactly how it acts when the wires are just barely still making contact. Now I'm more convinced you have broken wires.
The way I repair the harness is to pull as much of it as possible out of the door and the "A"-pillar, then cut out one wire at a time. On some models there will be two wires that are the same color and same diameter, and if you mix them up, everything will still work properly, except if two people push the window switches for the same window, you'll pop an auto-resetting circuit breaker. You'll avoid that by just doing one wire at a time.
Most commonly I remove a piece of wire 11" long. The wire I splice in is 22" long. Don't twist the ends of the wires together. Slide the strands into each other and check that no sharp ends are sticking up. Solder that splice, then seal it with heat-shrink tubing. Never use electrical tape in a car. It will unravel into a gooey mess on a hot day. Check a second time for sharp points sticking up before you heat the heat-shrink tubing. Push those points down so they don't work through the tubing.
Splice the other end the same way and seal it. If the wires were in a rubber sleeve, run the new wires through it too. If they had plastic wrap around the harness, use that stuff again. You only have to wrap the parts of the wires that will be between the hinges and flexing. The extra wire gets stuffed into the door where nothing will catch on it, or into the A-pillar. The spices should be inside the door and A-pillar too so they don't flex each time you open the door. The next time this repair is needed, pull that extra wire out and you'll be half done with the repair.
Friday, September 12th, 2014 AT 6:50 PM