2000 Ford Ranger stalling and idling rough

Without a code, it becomes a guessing game. Since the problem is when it is cold, I have to question the temp sender. If it doesn't recognize that it is cold, it may not be running the fuel mixture rich enough.

When it is cold, does it have a miss or anything? Have you checked fuel pump pressure when it is cold?

No miss when cold. Loss of power, Stalling.
Fuel pressure is 68 lbs. I did change the ect sensor this summer.Bought one from Auto zone 15.99. Could be a junk part. Thanks

Yes, it could. Have you checked it?

I went out a purchased a new motorcraft ect sensor today. Will know
more after i let it sit till it cools off. Erased the KAM also.will do the idle relearn later today.

Motorcraft was 11.60 compared to the A/Zone value craft for 15.99
Should have bought the motorcraft in the beginning

Well it wasn't the ect sensor. No change in the way it runs when it's cold.

Was it something i said?

Hi:
My god, no... you said nothing wrong. I have just been swamped. Sorry for the delay. Can you tell me how many miles are on the vehicle? It says 65 on the post.

65,000 actual miles

I bought it in 02 with 32.000 on it

Okay... I was thinking there could be a compression issue. Have you checked that?

yes i have no issues with compression

yes i have , compression is mormal

Everything we reviewed seems normal. This is a tough one. I am going to discuss it with another tech and get their input to see if we can come up with more ideas.

Ok great

this has been handed to me to help. f'rom your first description I would think along the line of a vacuum leak because when it warms up the computer is richening the mix enough to take it over so it won't run rough. Or maybe a dirty egr valve/plugged passage. this could also be a broken grommet on valve cover or something similar to that or a hole int eh maf to throttle body duct work. It can be as little as a small hole in vacuum line or cracked line. try plugging the two lines I've pointed out one at a time while cold and see if that helps if it does then the line will have to checked for a small hole/crack.

Ok Thanks I will check the 2 hoses tomorrow. I did
buy a new egr that I haven't put on yet. will install and check passages also. Tubing from maf to throttle body is fine no holes. checked it several times.
Hope I find where the problem is.
Thanks , will let you know

Now is it the top hose or bottom on the evr?
cant tell by the picture.
Thanks

looks like the bottom but you could unplug both and see if it makes a difference as well then you know it would bean ever or cco problem.

well today we changed the egr valve and tube Did find
that one of the bolts holding the egr valve was only tightened
half way. changed dpfe hoses( figured it wouldn't hurt) and
the hose going from the intake to the evap service port.
hose was looking bad but don't think it was leaking.
let the truck cool off outside (15 F) for 2 1/2 hours. Truck
Started and didn't stumble or starve for fuel.
Will know more tomorrow after letting it sit overnight.
I will let you know this week.

Started it today. normal throttle response.new egr did help
when engine was cold . I can take right off in it. Still have a stumble at idle and stall.

has the throttle plate and iac hole been cleaned with choke cleaner? and duct work and all grommets checked for cracks and or small holes? also one other thing hae you blocked the evap hose as it may be sending vacuum through there when it shouldn't it's in the drawing I sent. thos should only open when the vehicle is above 30 mph and not on idle sometimes the solenoid is stuck in the open position at idle and it screws it up. Other than that I really can't think of anything else that would cause this unless it 's the dpfe sensor as fords go through those like candy. it's on the rear lifting hook of engine.

throttle plate and iac have both been sprayed.haven't blocked the evap hose. truck runs 90% better. duct works are free of cracks and holes. I changed hoses on the dpfe yesterday. wouldn't a dpfe trow a code?

it should but that doesn't mean it will. but like I said I cannot think of anything else to your problem unless you get the injectors professionally cleaned as pro cleaner is not good for the hoses and they hook right up to the fuel rail. the thing that is throwing me off is it's ok when warm which usually is a small vacuum leak and the computer compensates once it reaches temp. I've been reading a lot of tips on these vehicles check your vacuum at idle cold and if the gauge bounces between 16-18 " it seems that its' the valve seats are worn and what happens it can't overcome the lifters oil so it idles rough . with worn seats it allows the valve stem to go to high causing the lifter problem. and normally with new seats it takes care of itself as it puts it back in the right height. Like I said I can't think of anything else but with 65k I kind of think it may not be the seats. It may be something you'll need to live with if it can't be found. It is hard for us as we can't actually work on it to try stuff that you dont' know what to look for...... I have seen spark plugs that will not fire right when cold but when warmed up they pick up but that is usually though out the whole range of engine rpm not at idle. i'm at a complete loss now.......and have no further suggestions.

Ok thanks. think i will change egr pressure feedback sensor,
and check the vacumm

plug the evap line as well as the solenoid may be sticking. try that first it's the easiest

ok will do

Took my truck into the dealership this week . They found that the MAF wasn't working. I have put 4 mafs on since May. The aftermarket Mafs will not work on this truck.Still had the warranty for the old one.Traded it in for a Motorcraft
maf . Truck runs fine .