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Altnator not chargeing bit checked ok.

Tiny
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Ok so do I cut the solid green wire at the computer & run that wire to the field wire on the new voltage regulator? Then cut the green/orange wire and run that to the 12volt switch wire on new voltage regulator? Sorry the voltage regulator I got dont have the connector I had to make one. If th is not correct could u just explan it useing term field wire and the switch wire please. Im kind of a dumb **** when it comes to **** like this.
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Wednesday, February 2nd, 2011 AT 8:47 AM
Tiny
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Don't cut the green / orange wire. Just splice into it and connect it to the center terminal on the new regulator. This diagram might help. The green / orange wire on top is original on your car. Splice into it and run that wire to the center terminal for the regulator. That's the blue wire in my drawing. (I used blue because everything dark blue under the hood in the '70s had 12 volts when the ignition switch was on. That's the color you'll find if you grab a regulator connector from the salvage yard).

The green wire is cut anywhere between the alternator and computer. The end still hooked to the alternator goes to the regulator terminal in the corner of the connector.

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Wednesday, February 2nd, 2011 AT 9:23 AM
Tiny
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Ok that makes much better sence ill let ya know when I get it done and how thingss work. Thanks much for all the help. This site has been the best ever. If this dont work I think im just gonna have to blow my car up. If ya f
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Wednesday, February 2nd, 2011 AT 1:37 PM
Tiny
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K done system is chargeing but not seem to be running right and now it wont start what now?
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Wednesday, February 2nd, 2011 AT 9:13 PM
Tiny
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Hold the gas pedal down 1/8 inch. If it starts but won't stay running with your foot off the gas, the Engine Computer must relearn "minimum throttle". To meet the conditions for that to take place, drive it at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals.

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Wednesday, February 2nd, 2011 AT 9:30 PM
Tiny
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K well thanks for all ur help but car still not running right so im giveing up and I broke down and I just ordered a used ecm for 90 bucks. Should be here tuesday of next week. So will see if that does the trick.
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Thursday, February 3rd, 2011 AT 12:30 AM
Tiny
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K I just put my new used ecu and car started but then died right away. Did this 3 times but now it wont even turn over & there is a lil red light that comes on?
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 4:23 AM
Tiny
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A four-digit security code has to be entered with the Chrysler DRB3 scanner. I think you can get the code from the dealer. That code is already programmed into the SKIM anti-theft module. The vehicle mileage has to be entered too.

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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 5:21 AM
Tiny
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Is that a special scan tool? That would require me to have the dealer do?And as far as the milage being entered is that the miliage thats on my car?Is that av
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 6:04 AM
Tiny
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Yup. Mileage on the car. That isn't critical, but even after fault codes are erased, there is some information that is stored permanently in the computer and only Chrysler can retrieve it. That will let them see when various fault codes set.

Yes to the scanner. That's the DRB3. Some independent shops have them too. I have one but I've never used to to enter the number. I think the dealer has to get that number.

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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 6:34 AM
Tiny
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Well last I was here I had just bypassed the ecu voltage regulator. Why indeed that did fix one of my main problems and system is chargeing now, but now that system is chargeing one of the exsiting problems is still there which is the ecu is still telling the sensors there at high circut. So there for my car still runs like **** its sucking gas like a v10 floods back smoke out tail pipes. The rev limiter kicks in, it sputters. All the same problems other than system is charging. How the hell can I fix this problem and get the ecu to tell sensors what there sapose to in order to run right.
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Friday, March 11th, 2011 AT 2:10 AM
Tiny
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I think you have that backwards. The computer takes in the sensor readings then determines how long to hold the injectors open to spray in the calculated amount of fuel. If there is a sensor problem, the computer should detect it, set a fault code, and turn on the Check Engine light. A sensor can still stay within the acceptable range but send the wrong value. The biggest offender of that is the MAP sensor and it has the biggest say in how much fuel is delivered. Try unplugging the MAP sensor while the engine is running. If it runs better, suspect that sensor. Next, check fuel pressure. That is not monitored by the computer. If the pressure is too high, too much fuel will be forced in each time the injector opens. Don't overlook a jumped timing belt. That should cause the Check Engine light to turn on but it's still not something to overlook. Finally, you can use a scanner to view live sensor data while the engine is running. That will let you see what the computer is seeing and how it is responding.
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Friday, March 11th, 2011 AT 3:18 AM
Tiny
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Ok well I have already checked fuel pressure and it checks out ok. But as far as the timeing belt goes that I think very well could be. Back when this all started was I was parked eating my food with car running cause it was like -15 below zero. I then started driveing not even a block all of sudden car just went ****ty. I then pulled over shut car off looked under hood dident see anything thing wrong started car severl times still ran like ****. Left car over night tell daylight came to find it was my belt that ran a/c etc but not the belt that runs the alt. Replaced belt car then would run but yet like ****. So here I am as you can see looking back every thing ive replaced fixed etc still nothing has fixed this problem. So I guess im asking could the belt breaking that runs the a/c cause this to happin but sorrey belt dident break it just came off yes the belt had shredded a bit.I got codes from scan tool but all codes that came back seemed to be all linked in one way or another which was something to do with circut high or something like that so what do you think this is all meaning and could be?
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Friday, March 11th, 2011 AT 5:18 AM
Tiny
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K I just looked back at some of my notes from when I ran scan tool and codes were saying high circut or input voltage to high or low. Also just as a reminder some codes did go away after bypassing ecu voltage reg but some are still comeing up and there saying the same think. Also took car in to a battery shop and they tested charging system and they said the charging system was a lil high but nothing to have any concern that it was nothing out of the norm.
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Friday, March 11th, 2011 AT 5:35 AM
Tiny
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If you have multiple codes for high sensor readings you might have an open ground wire in common with all of them. I ran into that a couple of weeks ago with a full-size van. Measure the voltage on the throttle position sensor. You should find 5.0 volts, 0.2 volts, and the middle one will be between 0.5 and 4.5 volts depending on throttle position. If you find 5 volts on two or all three wires, we'll have found something to fix.
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Friday, March 11th, 2011 AT 6:05 AM
Tiny
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K well I disconnected voltage regulator and hooked back up to factory. Then after doing so started car and while was running unpluged throttle position sensor. Once TPS was unplugged cars rpm droped to what seems normal which I think is bout 1,000. Pluged back in RPM jumped back up to over 1,000 but evem if TPS in pluged in or unpluged the car wont rev past 4,000 rev limiter kicks in. As far as voltage goes on the TPS its reading bout 4.5 and thats testing all wires thats all I could get for voltage reading. Tested voltage on map sensor also is 4.5 volts. Not sure if I ever brought this up but the car is running rich as hell and sucks gas like ive never seen my escalade v8 6.0 liter high output gets better gas milage than my car is right now. Also there is black **** comeing out the tail pipes and is all over the ground. So please help me get this figured out.
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Saturday, March 12th, 2011 AT 12:08 AM
Tiny
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If you have high voltage on all three MAP and TPS wires, you have an open ground wire. That is usually the black / blue wire. 4.5 volts on the TPS signal wire tells the computer the throttle is wide open and needs a lot of gas. 4.5 volts on the MAP tells the computer intake manifold vacuum is 0 hg which means heavy acceleration and more gas.
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Saturday, March 12th, 2011 AT 12:34 AM
Tiny
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Ok so what should I do then to fix the problem or to figure this out?
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Saturday, March 12th, 2011 AT 1:15 AM
Tiny
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Step 1: Measure the voltage on the black / blue wire for the TPS or MAP. If it is not 0.2 volts, there is a break in that wire back to the Engine Computer. That same circuit is the ground for the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor so if that wire is broken at the computer the engine wouldn't run. The break would have to someplace between the MAP and TPS and the cam and crank sensors. Look for a corroded splice in that wire between those sensors.
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Saturday, March 12th, 2011 AT 2:29 AM
Tiny
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Ok after I do this what is the next step?
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Saturday, March 12th, 2011 AT 11:24 AM

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