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1999 SL-1 Engine problems

Tiny
JUSTIN ADAIR
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 SATURN SL1
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
I have a 1999 Satrun SL-1. Wenday when I came to work it was running fine. When I left the parking lot and got on the freeway it was okay. But when I got stopped in traffic the car started running hard and the RPM's would drop. I got almost all the way home and the car died. I had a friend take me to Checkers and they said my alternator and battery were bad. So I change them. Well I am still having the same problems. When the car first turns on the idle jumps straight over 2000 RPM's then goes back just under 1000 RPM's as soon as I put it into gear it drops even more and eventually dies before I can move it a few feet. What could be causing this?
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Friday, January 7th, 2011 AT 3:31 PM

22 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Did you make sure the car is charging now since you replaced the battery and alternator?Also go to the auto part's store and have them scan the car for code's and let me know the exact code number's you have. Now let's try this take off both of your battery cable's off your battery for at least 30 second's while there off make sure the cable's are clean if they aren't clean them with a battery brush and baking soda and water. Put them back on and let's see how they run. Let me know what you find.
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Friday, January 7th, 2011 AT 6:42 PM
Tiny
JUSTIN ADAIR
  • MEMBER
  • 42 POSTS
Okay I will do this as soon as I get home tonight. My buddy is suppose to help me get my car to autozone so I can get a diagnostic. I will post after 5 PM MST Arizona time.
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Friday, January 7th, 2011 AT 7:00 PM
Tiny
JUSTIN ADAIR
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  • 42 POSTS
Okay I got the vehicle diagnostics checked out. I have two codes but I forgot to bring them with me. But how ever I do remember 1 and know what they said. 1 code said TFT (Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor) and a Misfire code. I changed the wire and spark plugs and I also discovered after taking the vehicle to my Uncles house that I had a blown head gasket. We are installing the new head gasket this coming weekend because we both work Monday through Friday. Now I am just wondering if anything else needs fixed.

P0300 - Random Misfire
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Monday, January 10th, 2011 AT 3:29 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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With the random miss fire could have been the plug's and wire's causing that You will have to see how it run's after you replace the head gasket. Make sure you have the head checked for being warped crack's etc. AS far as your tft code it's most likely caused by a bad coolant temp sensor.I know it sound's funny but when the coolant temp sensor starting reading a great enough temp that is way lower then actual temp it will set a tft code. It's really common for them to go bad and could be the reason you blew the head gasket.I would also check the connector going to the sensor if it's corroded you need to replace the connector too. How do you know you have a bad head gasket?
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Monday, January 10th, 2011 AT 6:44 PM
Tiny
JUSTIN ADAIR
  • MEMBER
  • 42 POSTS
My Uncle has been a mechanic for several years. When I took it to his house I showed him what I done and gave him the code list. We started looking and he decided to pull out the spark plugs and test the pressure. When we tried to crank it over there was about equal pressue coming from both at the same time. It never fluxuated back and forth. Be said somethings wrong with the head gasket or cylinders and we took off the headsand found a blown gasket. Now I called the auto parts store to ask about the TFT sensor and they can't seem to find one. I heard that the TFTbcan be changed out with a ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor)? Is this true or do I have to keep looking? I will check the connector first however but if its corroded I want to change them both out.
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Monday, January 10th, 2011 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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In my last post to you I explained you probably have a bad coolant temp sensor not a bad tft.I have replaced very few of the tft's but have replace hundred's of the coolant temp sensor's and when they go bad they can set a tft code. As far as the coolant temp sensor connector goes I would only replace that if it was corroded. Also yes the tft is the same as the coolant temp sensor but I feel replacing the tft also would be wasting your money but that's up to you. The bad coolant temp sensor probably caused your engine to overheat because the fan didn't come causing that blown head gasket.
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Monday, January 10th, 2011 AT 7:32 PM
Tiny
JUSTIN ADAIR
  • MEMBER
  • 42 POSTS
Yeah but normally when the cars fan isn't working properly (even due to a sensor) Wouldn't the car then overheat? My vehicle never overheated? I instantly checked the coolant and got under the hood when this all started happening. Thats what leades me to believe the sensor or sensors are just bad. I also discovered my motormount was no good. So I believe with the blown head gasket and a bad motor mount that could explain the reason why it ran itself down in gear and shut up and why it idled harder. I will take your advice though its just kind of weird. I have had a head gasket blow before in a previous car I had but it wasnt nothing like this. The car was given to us and we drove it from South Carolina to Arizona. I just need to get this working for a good 3 or 4 months for work and I will save for a new vehicle. No more trips to the lake or extra ciricular activites for awhile.
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Monday, January 10th, 2011 AT 8:12 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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The coolant temp sensor on that car run's both the temp gauge and tells the computer what temp the car is. So when they go bad they read colder then actual temp so you would never see it running hot on the gauge right?I have lot's of customer's ask that same question I liked it a lot more when on the 1991-1995 saturn's they had a temp sender for the gauge and one for the computer that way you could be tipped off that you had a problem by seeing the gauge running hot.I have replaced the one on my 1999 saturn twice since I have owned it for 5 year's now.
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Monday, January 10th, 2011 AT 8:34 PM
Tiny
JUSTIN ADAIR
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  • 42 POSTS
Yeah thats possible. The one thing that gets me about it is that I never seen it on the gauge and never seen it when I opened the coolant cap? I would think your hear it bubbling or something in the coolant container?
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Monday, January 10th, 2011 AT 8:41 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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You would never see it on the gauge the sensor that's probably bad run's the gauge also so if it's bad and reading a lower then it's supposed then your gauge would read at that lower incorrect temp.I have seen some of those sensor's go bad and read over 40 degree's cooler then actual coolant temp. You can't always hear it bubbling in the coolant tank keep this in mind depending on your coolant mixture which raise's the boil point of water it could have very well have been overheating without you knowing it.
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Monday, January 10th, 2011 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
JUSTIN ADAIR
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Yeah that is possible. I am going to work on it this weekend. I will post anything new. I think I will replace both sensors. They are only $8 bucks a sensor. I don't know where to get new connectors. I asked my AP Store if they carried them and they said no.
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Tuesday, January 11th, 2011 AT 8:55 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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I would only replace the connector if it's corroded if not leave it alone. The connector's are like 20-25 at the dealer better to get them at pick a part that's where I get mine.
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Tuesday, January 11th, 2011 AT 9:05 PM
Tiny
JUSTIN ADAIR
  • MEMBER
  • 42 POSTS
Okay another Question the O rings under the cover that the timming chain and crank shaft is at what are they call. I already ordered the Front Crank Shaft Seal but I need the O rings that are there.
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Thursday, January 13th, 2011 AT 8:11 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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The orings that are under the cover that sit in the bottom of the engine block that seal up the oil pump plate cover that is on the timing cover?If so why are you changing them?You loose them I always reuse the old one's never had a oil pressure issue. The front seal I would replace if you have the orings there reusable.
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Friday, January 14th, 2011 AT 3:23 AM
Tiny
JUSTIN ADAIR
  • MEMBER
  • 42 POSTS
My uncle took them out and said I should replace them. So I am just doing what he said. He called me and said to replace the front crank seal and the o rings so I found the crank seal easy but when looking for the o rings they gave me problems. I just do what he says cause hes been a Mechanic for years and I don't really know alot about this stuff.
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Friday, January 14th, 2011 AT 2:54 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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I have worked for saturn dealers for over 16yrs repairing cars i'm a factory trained saturn tech ev1 full electric trained tech I have been a shop foreman and team leader for saturn dealer's.I was giving my professional option on the orings. On that car I have reused those orings on many different car's without any problem's. Saturn has a timing chain kit that come's with the chain the three guide's the tenisor the front seal the three sprocket's the oil pump wear plate that is on the timing cover but not those orings that I can remember. If you really want those orings you may have to get a engine seal kit.
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Friday, January 14th, 2011 AT 5:07 PM
Tiny
JUSTIN ADAIR
  • MEMBER
  • 42 POSTS
Okay I will have to tell my uncle that. I agree with. You though those orings looked pretty new still. But I also know looks can be decieving. But I think they are still reusuable aswell. As always I am greatful for your input.
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Friday, January 14th, 2011 AT 7:40 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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AS long as there is no crack's nick's or cut's the oring is good.
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Saturday, January 15th, 2011 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
JUSTIN ADAIR
  • MEMBER
  • 42 POSTS
Well my uncle found some new O Rings for it. When I got off work Friday he already had most of the car put back together. The car now har a new alternator, new motor mount, new seals and gaskets and runs pretty good. I need a new battery and I am going to replace the Sensors. I still have a CHECK ENGINE light on. But I do have a problem still. When I turn the car on the lights pulse rapidly but not bad with the car. Is that because the after market alternator and the old battery? Also I my serpentine belt seems to be alil loose when I put on alil gas it seems to vibrate the belt. Is it possible the belt got slightly streched from taking it off a few times. The belt looks pretty new from the inside lining to the outside. No cracks or damage seen.
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Tuesday, January 18th, 2011 AT 6:01 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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You need to take a multimeter at the battery when the light's are pulsing and see if the voltage is changing that much.A bad battery or loose or dirty battery cable's can cause unstable voltage as well. If your belt is vibrating and loose then you have a bad belt tensioner.
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Tuesday, January 18th, 2011 AT 7:22 PM

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