Not starting, prior would need many key turn cycles before start, now still needs cycles but then only cranks

Thanks for the reply. Even if it is the fuel supply (filter or pump), this does not explain the need for numerous key turns prior to cranking. These could be two unrelated problems or they could be related. I will be checking the pump and filter this afternoon.

I have disconnected the fuel line after the filter and placed it in a container. I then powered the fuel pump directly from the battery. It pumped into the container just fine. I then reconnected the fuel line and powered the pump for about 30 seconds. I then depressed the pressure valve on the fuel rail and did not get any fuel. Would it take longer than 30 seconds to move the fuel to the rail? Is there something else that would keep the fuel from the rail?

I found a helper to keep the valve on the rail open while I powered the pump directly from the battery with an external wire. You were right, it just took a couple of seconds to get the fuel to the open valve on the rail. So this inidcates that the fuel system delivers fuel when powered. Now the issue becomes when is it getting power.

To explain further the key/click/starter issue. I am not sure what the key positions are called so I will define my own. In normal opeation when you turn the key it will move through a few positions. The first I will call the ON position at which the odometer comes on, turn further to the RUN position and the indicator lights come on, further still to the START position and the starter will engage. Once the engine starts and the key is released it will settle back to the RUN position.

With those positions in mind and the knowledge that the fuel pump is capable to supply fuel to the rails I again tried to start the engine. Turning to the ON position lit the odometer, as I turned the key to the RUN position I could hear click(s) (probably relays) and a momentary hum shich upon research is the fuel pump powering for maybe a second. When I turned to START I got a much loader click from the starter but no more than the load click. Sounded like the gear engaged but did not attempt to turn. The key returned to the RUN. I turned to START again with the same result. On the twelve cycle the starter crank the engine for as long as I held the key in the START position but the engine did not start. I probably cranked for 15-20 seconds before I let go.

This cycling of the key between RUN and START is what we have been doing for quite a while, maybe a year. However before yesterday, when on the key turn where the starter would crank the engine, the engine would start right away and run fine. It just might be the first key turn to START or the 30th cycle. The past week has been worse than "?Normal?" In the number of cycles before starting. Then yesterday when it does crank it does not start.

After reading things on-line I found someone who said that if blade 86 of the starter relay has 12v when in the START position that indicates that both the ingnition switch and the TRS are operating correctly. I am just wondering what other sensors/relays would keep the engine from starting once I do get it to crank. And what things would cause the need to cycle various number of times from RUN to START before the starter will crank? Is there a sensor/relay that would keep the fuel pump from being powered?

Sorry for the delay in getting to a resolution. It turns out that the solenoid on the starter was bad. It would at times be strong enough to engage the starter but most of the time not. Replacing the starter was the answer to this part of the problem. Even though the fuel pump was working it was not working well. I ended up getting a fuel pressure gauge and found out that the pump was only capable of producing about 10 psi at the rail when the specs called for about 50 psi. So replacing the fuel pump was the answer here. So now the vehicle satrts and runs fine. After talking to a mechanic he mentioned that the possible cause was originally the solenoid which made me keep turning the key until it would crank. The turning of the key was stopping and starting the fuel pump every time and that may have worn out the diaphram enough to cause the low pressure. So I may have caused more problems by not fixing the first problem sooner. Live and learn, at least I am operational now. Thanks.