Stalling problems

Tiny
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I am confused. The check engine light has never come on with this problem. My tech friend says if the check engine light does not come on, there will not be any trouble codes to read with my OBD II scanner or his Snap-On analyzer. Is he mistaken or does it take a Chrysler DRB3 scanner to read them? Can I find a code in memory with my OBD II scan tool by cycling the key on and off three times?
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Tuesday, June 19th, 2012 AT 6:37 PM
Tiny
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There can be a code in memory without turning the light on. Every Chrysler product will set a code in cold weather for "running cold too long" because the engine does not reach operating temperature within six minutes of starting. If that code caused the check engine light to turn on, the light would be on in every Chrysler car and truck on the road, at least up here in the northern part of the country.

A code can be set related to the clutch on an air conditioning compressor. During setup of the scanner, they often ask if the car has air conditioning. If you press "no", it will not display the stored code for an open circuit to the clutch, (which is not there).

The confusion comes from the fact that the on-board diagnostics, version 2, (OBD2) that started on all models in 1996 multiplied many times over the emissions-related things that are monitored by the engine computer. There are hundreds of things now instead of a few dozen that can set a code, but there are still some codes that do not turn on the check engine light. When that light turns on while driving, you can be one hundred percent certain that the circuit or system with the fault is involved in some way with emissions and the result of that fault could lead to higher emissions.

If you look in section 25 of the service manual, all the potential code numbers are listed along with their descriptions. Any numbers with an "M" after it means that code will cause the "MIL", (malfunction indicator lamp) to turn on. That is the check engine light. On one page alone there are twenty two codes listed and only three of them will turn the light on. That means you can have nineteen codes in memory just from that one page that will not turn the light on.

Curiosity got the better of me so I looked through the 2000 Caravan service manual and found two hundred and one fault codes listed. Only ninety eight of them will turn on the check engine light. Of those that will not, the greatest percentage would seem like they would affect emissions but apparently there is some reason they do not. Federal law mandates that any detected fault that can adversely affect emissions must turn the light on. They do not require the light to turn on if the code is not related to increased emissions.
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Tuesday, June 19th, 2012 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
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Will any scan tool read those codes? When we checked before, there were no codes stored. Will they stay in memory until they are cleared or disappear after driving X number of miles or drive cycles? Does the key need to be cycled three times to access them?
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Tuesday, June 19th, 2012 AT 7:52 PM
Tiny
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Cycling the ignition switch three times is strictly a Chrysler thing to make getting the codes easy. Any scanner should read them but that is just the engine computer codes. There can be other codes in the transmission computer, body computer, and a few others. Many newer scanners will access those computers too but they never do as much as the manufacturer's stuff. The Chrysler DRB3 will even access the engine computers on any other brand of vehicle sold in the U.S. After 1995 if you use a small plug-in card.

If a problem does not occur again, the code will erase after starting the engine fifty times which for most people is about two weeks.
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Tuesday, June 19th, 2012 AT 9:15 PM
Tiny
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While waiting for my tech friend to read this thread and give me his thoughts, I got curious about the condition of my IAC valve. I do not know if it is a factory scheduled maintenance item so I do not know if it has ever been cleaned. Today I removed it for inspection. It looks to me (see photo) like it has never been cleaned but I could be wrong. In any case, it obviously needed cleaning so I sprayed it with CRC throttle body cleaner and lightly scrubbed it with a baby toothbrush then blasted it with compressed air. I found the seat inside the orifice in the same dirty condition so I cleaned that (the seating surface specifically) with the same except I used cotton swabs rather than a toothbrush then blew it out with compressed air.

After reassembly, the vehicle started normally and after the "flare up", curb idle settled at 650 rpm. Not sure if that is the factory spec, wish I had checked the idle speed before cleaning but it seems normal and smooth.

Before and after cleaning photos are attached.
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Thursday, June 21st, 2012 AT 11:21 PM
Tiny
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What you did cannot hurt but you got better results than what I would have expected. The air passage is about half inch in diameter and that is what used to become totally blocked with carbon. A little carbon will not do it because the computer will just keep on increasing the number of steps until idle speed comes up. At first it will also command more fuel at the same time, but eventually the short and long-term fuel trims will be modified to keep the mixture correct.

If you do not know what fuel trim numbers are, just ask and I will explain them. I am following so many similar posts lately that I get confused on who is doing what.
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Thursday, June 21st, 2012 AT 11:36 PM
Tiny
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Hello Fixerman. I am so glad you have performed a cleaning of the IAC. Mine was like that, and after freeing the spintle with contact cleaner all my stalling problems were gone. I do not know if you had the chance to read my post way above, dated July 6, 2011. My engine es a 5.2l 1996 JGC limited.
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Friday, June 22nd, 2012 AT 8:29 PM
Tiny
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Cleaning the IAC valve sounded like something I should do after reading the entire thread here. I do not expect that to solve my stalling problem however.

Before performing this service, I connected my OBDII code reader and there were no codes stored. The crankshaft sensor has been replaced once and the camshaft sensor twice. The PCM was checked and repaired by a firm that specializes in them.

My questions now: would a code be stored immediately after engine stalling even without the check engine light on? I have never had a check engine light on after a stalling event. If it is known that the crankshaft position sensors become "heat sensitive", has Chrysler addressed the issue with a re-engineered part? In fact, has Chrysler acknowledged the Grand Cherokee stalling issue at all? Has there ever been a tech service bulletin?
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Friday, June 22nd, 2012 AT 9:03 PM
Tiny
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Heat-sensitive cam and crank sensors are common on all car brands and models simply because of the environment they live in. No need for a service bulletin. It is the first thing mechanics check for a no-start or a stalling-when-warm complaint. On many cars the check engine light will not turn on when one of them fails because that light is required to turn on only when the fault could adversely affect emissions. An engine that does not run cannot have excessive emissions.

The fastest way to check for proper sensor operation is with Chrysler's DRB3 scanner. Under the sensors menu it will list both sensors with "no" or "present" to indicate whether they are producing a signal. When one signal shows up, the computer knows to check for the other one and if it is missing it will set a code. Either sensor can short and turn off the supply voltage to both of them. In that case no code may be set because the computer doesn't know when to expect the signals.

In the absence of a scanner, you have to check for spark and fuel pressure during cranking. That can be a little tricky. Spark is easy to see missing but for fuel pressure, the pump will not run during cranking but it will run for one second each time the ignition switch is turned on. That will produce close to normal fuel pressure. A better way is to monitor the voltage at the ignition coil(s), any injector, or the alternator field terminals. They all get twelve volts during cranking from the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay. The computer turns that relay on when it gets the two sensor signals.
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Saturday, June 23rd, 2012 AT 5:35 AM
Tiny
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I spoke to my tech and I was wrong about something; the crankshaft sensor has been replaced twice, the cam sensor has been replaced once. The crankshaft sensor is located in the block and only installs one way the air gap adjustment is not an issue in this application. Its location makes it difficult to remove and replace, it is done from below with the vehicle on the lift.

The camshaft sensor is easier to access and he suggested I could try replacing that one myself if, as you say, those sensors become heat-sensitive over time. He also assures me that his Snap-On analyzer will read all the same codes from both sensors in the same way as the DRB3.

We talked about the parts becoming heat-sensitive over time. My question is, how could both sensors last 130,000 (plus) miles and their replacements (Jeep OE) last only a year or so before being affected by engine heat?

I suppose its possible when I think about other Jeep OE parts I have replaced. This vehicle's taillights began to fail (bulb and socket replacements were not a fix) and we found that the entire lens/bucket assemblies had to be replaced (about $78.00 each) due to internal circuitry that fails. Less than a year later, one of those OE replacements failed. Also, this Jeep is on its fourth radiator since new, the first one having failed (cracked plastic tanks) at only 47,000 miles. (Incidentally, for anyone reading this who owns a Grand Cherokee and plans to keep it for a long time, when your radiator fails, take a lesson from this. Spend the money to replace it with a custom all-aluminum aftermarket radiator instead of an OE type with the aluminum core and plastic tanks. You will spend more for the part but you are cost in the long run will be far less due to the labor savings because the entire front fascia has to be removed to replace the radiator on these vehicles.) My tech friend says you cannot escape this design flaw because all newer vehicles have the same aluminum/plastic radiators and they are all junk!

Sorry to digress. The last time the vehicle stalled, I called my tech buddy and gave him my theory that maybe the fuel pump is going bad. He suggested that I find the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail, remove the cap and use a key or knife blade to press it and see if fuel squirts out under pressure. It did. Also, after the engine stalls, I try to restart it and when it will not start, I notice that it cranks quickly without trying to fire at all just like it would with no spark.

When you say I have to check for fuel pressure and spark, you mean after it has stalled. I never know when it will stall and it is running now. We are not driving this vehicle regularly anymore so I do not know when that will be and I do not know where the coil or coils are located on this engine. (I am an old car guy). I assume you mean checking for twelve volts with a simple meter and probes?
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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 9:57 PM
Tiny
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Do not have an answer to your radiator dilemma. Almost all vehicles use the same plastic tanks since the mid 1980's. The radiator in my 1988 Grand Caravan rotted away over ten years ago and developed a bunch of holes in the tubes, so I replaced it with a good used one. It is still my daily driver and I regularly work it really hard by dragging a tandem axle enclosed trailer to car show swap meets. Before you blame the design, which really does not cause that much trouble, you might want to check the radiator cap to be sure it is not maintaining too much pressure on the system. Also, check that the hoses are not tight and tugging on the tanks when the engine rocks under acceleration. There is definitely something else going on to have that many failures.

Testing the fuel pressure after stalling can be misleading. Too many people get hung up on the first thing they find missing, spark or fuel pressure. They forget that you must check for both of them because they have their power source in common. You want to determine if you have a spark problem, a fuel supply problem, or a power supply problem to both systems. That power source is the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay. The engine computer turns it on when it gets pulses from both the cam and crank sensors. If either signal is missing, you will lose spark because the computer will not know when to fire a coil, but you will lose fuel pressure too because the power to the fuel pump and ignition coil(s) has been turned off. Where it gets confusing is even though the computer will not turn the ASD relay on during cranking, it will turn it on for one second after you turn on the ignition switch. That is to run the fuel pump to be sure the pressure is up for starting in case it bled off over a few days. For that reason, it can look like you have fuel pressure, you will find the no spark, and you will be trying to diagnose the coil circuit which is not the one with the problem.

When you do not have a scanner with you to see the state of the cam and crank sensor signals and whether the ASD relay has been commanded on, the next best thing is to measure the voltage that the ASD relay provides to see if it turns on during cranking. On most vehicles of the late 1990's, that was a dark green wire with an orange stripe. Look for that at any injector. If your wire colors are different, just look for the wire color that is the same at every injector, every ignition coil, and on the back of the alternator. You can measure at any of those points. You should see twelve volts for one second after a helper turns on the ignition switch, then it should come back during cranking. Many digital voltmeters don't respond fast enough to see that twelve volts so a test light might work better.

As for a failing fuel pump, I suppose it is possible but your mechanic is drawing an incorrect conclusion from seeing too many failed GM fuel pumps. GM pumps typically fail while you are driving down the highway and they leave you sitting in a puddle of tears on the side of the road. Ninety nine percent of Chrysler pump failures are a failure to start up when you try to start the engine. The engine will run for a few seconds until the pressure gets drawn down. You can usually hear the hum of the pump when you first turn on the ignition switch. If you do, a no-start is not due to a pump failure. If you do not hear the pump or you do have good spark and a no-start condition, you will very often get the pump going by banging on the bottom of the gas tank. It is extremely rare for a Chrysler fuel pump to fail while driving.
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Monday, June 25th, 2012 AT 3:06 AM
Tiny
ERNESTO123
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Hi Fixerman,
I have been reading the threads above. Here are some comments. 1)It is good to realize that your stalling problems might be already solved-simple logic. 2)Do not expect to solve any problem by looking at a DRB, those are diagnostic tools, and even though they might have lots of information, are not through with all possible engine problems. 3)If your stalling problem is still an ongoing issue, you might benefit from rethinking your failure again. 4)For instance you can start looking at the same problem from a different perspective: e.G. If your problem. (I will continue later) bye.
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Tuesday, June 26th, 2012 AT 2:26 PM
Tiny
ERNESTO123
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As I was saying, if your SUV continues to stall whenever the engine warms up, it could very well be due to a faulty coil in the automatic shutdown relay. Sometimes faulty coils behave in such a way that when used, they warm up a lot and then they open the contacts. If that is the case the engine would stall intermediately and the only thing to do is to replace the relay.

Simple solutions are very easy to overlook but should not be overlooked for many a time it happens that engine problems are easy to solve. It also happens often that mechanics request to change this part and that part, and yet another part, all without thoroughly testing the parts they want replaced, making the owner spend lots of hard earned dollars, to no avail.
On the other hand, do not become discouraged by you vehicle troubles because, as I have already said, your stalling problems might have already been solved and you might not be aware of it. Also, remember that your rig is one of the finest, most rugged, all terrain vehicles ever built. Jeeps are fine vehicles, built to last, rugged and competitive in harsh driving conditions.
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Tuesday, June 26th, 2012 AT 4:42 PM
Tiny
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Most of what you said is true but you are not seeing the value of the DRB3 or any other scanner. It is correct that it is only a tool but tools are what it takes to get the job done; in this case diagnose an intermittent no-start condition. The DRB3 is all I use at home on my cars.

Mechanics rarely test parts. I worked with a very ineffective teacher who put great stock in teaching how to test parts because that is what he understood. He never was a mechanic. He was a service adviser and was not qualified to teach what he was teaching. The level of dissatisfaction among students and employers was very high. Time is money, both for employers and customers. I saw one fellow get fired for "testing" a thermostat in a can of water after the new one took care of the problem. (That wasted an hour of the boss's time but it was not his first offense). Good mechanics diagnose as quickly as possible, then replace parts. They understand that replacing random parts introduces new variables that computers are not ready to relearn and can affect performance, and they know that testing of parts wastes time and to be effective in finding the cause of an intermittent problem, it must be done while that part is still in its bad state. In the case of your ASD relay suggestion, no testing is involved and no parts need to be purchased. Simply switch it with a different one like it such as the AC compressor relay or wiper relay. If the problem still occurs, you can move on to in-depth testing without wondering if that relay is all that is wrong.

There is little chance anyone will be successful replacing a spark plug without a spark plug socket, but it can be done. There is little chance you can remove a trim screw without a screwdriver, but it can be done. There is little chance you can diagnose a no-start problem without a scanner, but it can be done, if you want to waste a lot of time. In all those cases you need the right tool for the job. You are right that the DRB3 is just a tool, but it is the right tool for the job.

To identify an intermittent ASD relay which is extremely rare, you might check for spark when the no-start condition pops up. You might also observe that the fuel pump does not hum for one second after turning on the ignition switch. But you still do not know if it is a defective relay, a defect in the computer running that relay, a wiring problem with the relay's coil circuit, or the most common cause, an overheated contact or connector terminal on the ignition switch. You would need to drag out your voltmeter or test light to test all those circuits with a helper, or, all of those things can be learned in less than a minute with a scanner. The DRB3 lists the ASD relay and whether the computer has commanded it on or off. It also lists "ASD Sense" meaning did the relay actually turn on and send twelve volts to the ignition coil, fuel pump, injectors, alternator field, oxygen sensor heaters, and back to the computer? If it is listed as "high", you instantly know every circuit associated with the relay, and the cam and crank sensors are working. It lists "twelve volt ignition sense". If that is "high", you know the ignition switch is working. Without that proper tool, how long would it take to test all those circuits before you found the one that needed further diagnosis?

Most aftermarket scanners today do a real good job but they never do everything the manufacturer's scanner will do. In some cases they do more, such as tell you which wire color to test and what to expect, but I never allowed my students to use them, or the troubleshooting charts in service manuals. Both of those tools are for people who do not understand the circuits they're working in. That does not mean those people are stupid or unqualified. It just means they have not learned the circuit yet. You can be the best over-the-road driver in the world, but occasionally you may need a road map because you do not have every route memorized. When my students truly understand how a circuit works, the diagram is all they need to know what to test and the results to expect, but they still need the tools. In many cases a voltmeter is that tool. When testing numerous parameters of a circuit that a computer already knows, the most effective tool to use is one that can talk back and forth with that computer, and that is the scanner.

If you could measure a good signal from a cam sensor, then from a crank sensor, how are you ever going to determine if they are in sync without a scanner displaying that information from the computer? Worse yet, if the cruise control kicks out intermittently but can be "resumed" a few seconds later, how will you ever find that without the scanner to display "reason for last cutout"?

You are down-playing the importance of the DRB3 being the right tool for the job. You stated it is not thorough with all engine problems. We are not dealing with all engine problems; we know we are dealing with an electrical or fuel supply problem, and based on the really good description of the symptoms, we can rule out fuel problems. Mechanical problems will not cause a sudden stalling and intermittent no-start, then magically fix themselves later.

"It also happens offen that mechanics request to change this part and that part, and yet another part, all without throughly testing the parts they want replaced, making the owner spend lots of hard earned dollars, to no avail."

You have that backward. It is do-it-yourselfers who throw random parts at a problem in hopes they will stumble on the fix. One of the goals of this forum is to prevent people from doing that and to straighten them out after they have done it and are still lost. Every time a mechanic wants to simply "try" a part, unless it is something they normally stock, he has to order it, wait for it to arrive, then when it does not solve the problem, it gets put in stock and represents wasted money. It could be years before that part is sold, if ever. Worse yet, with intermittent problems like this, how do you know that new part is the solution? We know it is not the solution if the problem occurs again, but what if that problem does not occur in the next week, or month? Is it fixed? Would you trust it on a trip deep into the wilderness?

The other thing you are overlooking with scanners is their ability to record a snapshot of events occurring with input sensors telling the computer how to respond and output sensors telling the computer the results of that response. We are lucky here that the vehicle stalls and remains in the no-start condition for half an hour, but what if you do not get your testing done in that half hour? The clues to this problem can be captured in a few seconds of sensor data, but only with a scanner with that capability.

You would be hard-pressed to suggest a better tool for finding this problem, but a lot of testing has already been done on this vehicle. We are way beyond the simple and common stuff. Now we are looking for the more obscure, one-of-a-kind, uncommon causes. The chances of stumbling onto a corroded connector terminal or cut wire are very small so we have to rely on more involved test results and observations. That is pretty hard to do over a computer, so the best we can do is suggest the best course of action that will help the mechanic and/or owner resolve this. We need to make that process as simple and reliable as possible. That is by using a scanner, even if it must be rented or the vehicle must be taken to a mechanic.
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Tuesday, June 26th, 2012 AT 6:43 PM
Tiny
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I appreciate all the knowledge and thinking applied here, wish I would found it sooner! However, even if somebody gave me a scanner, I would not know how to use it. I am kind of a hobbyist, hack mechanic with 1960's project cars pre-computer!

Going through the above information, I will add this: I do hear the pump's key-on one second hum or buzz. I am in the habit of listening for that at start-up since I got my first fuel-injected car many years ago an 1981 Volvo DL with the old Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection. But I digress. This Jeep gives me that familiar fuel pump buzz, even after it stalls. When it cranks (after stalling) it "sounds" like an engine that has no spark it does not even try to fire, there is no "resistance" to cranking. It just spins--cranks quickly and it does so on successive attempts to start until thirty to ninety minutes later when something has either cooled down or reset itself then it starts and runs as though nothing had happened and never displays the check engine light. My inclination is to suspect an ignition or spark problem it is not getting spark. I know from experience that even when an engine is starved for fuel or flooded, it will choke, puff, fire intermittently or even backfire if it is getting spark. But if there is no spark, you are just pumping raw fuel into the cylinders and it will spin like a sewing machine with no resistance. So, like my tech buddy, I tend to suspect a problem in the ignition circuit.

When this engine has stalled in the past, I have not had any tools or opportunity to diagnose or check anything except the last time I was able to check for residual pressure in the fuel rail which satisfied me and my tech buddy that it is getting fuel. I would think that even if the injectors were shut down, there would be enough fuel in a cylinder or two that tried to ignite, given the presence of spark. But as I said, there is no indication of combustion when cranking after a stall event. Turn the key on and you hear the fuel pump buzz but it just cranks quickly. If I could drive this vehicle on its starter, I would be fine!

Now, one possible clue it stalled once at seventy mph. As I coasted over four lanes of traffic to the shoulder, a dash light came on briefly that I had never seen before. It looked like a broken "key" icon. I looked it up in the owner's manual but it did not seem to be anything that made sense for stalling. My wife also observed the same icon when it stalled on her under the same conditions, running down the highway at speed, not idling. The explanation of that circuit or function in the manual did not make any sense to me. Any information on this that applies? I will try to find it again.
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Tuesday, June 26th, 2012 AT 7:26 PM
Tiny
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It would be helpful if you could post a photo of that light.

Keep in mind that if all you are losing is spark, when the engine does finally start it is going to be loaded up with raw fuel and it will take some time to clear out. You will see black smoke from the tail pipe. When it does start, if it fires right up and runs fine like nothing was wrong, you had to have lost spark and fuel, or just fuel.

Given all that has transpired, my best recommendation is to put your effort into finding a scanner you can borrow. When I built my hobby shop, I needed to find someone with a crane to lift the 54' roof trusses. There is no way easy to do that without the right tool. Similarly, I am thinking about an overheated ignition switch contact, an intermittent crank sensor again, and numerous other possibilities. To send you out to check all of them would take weeks, and you would have to do any testing while the problem was occurring. As validation of that suggestion, look how much testing has already been done, and we still are not even sure if it is a spark or fuel problem, or both.

Learning to use a scanner is not that complicated. If you have Windows XP on your home computer, a scanner is much easier to run. For the most part you keep making selections from drop-down menus. I became proficient on the Chrysler DRB2 by just using it, then I went to the school on the DRB3. It does the same stuff, just more of it.

You might even inquire at the local dealership's service department to see if you could rent their DRB3 for a week. Speak only with the service manager because he is the person who would have to allow it. A new type of scanner started being used with some 2004 models. Because the DRB3 was needed by many mechanics working on different systems at the same time, most dealerships have more than one. Now they are being used less frequently so you might be able to use one for a while.

You might also ask at a community college that has an Automotive program. The bigger programs have many different scanner brands, and a lot of them have DRB3's because with a small plug-in card, they will do emissions-related stuff on all brands of 1996 and newer cars sold in the U.S.

If you really want to get emotionally-involved with this diagnosis, you can probably find a used scanner on eBay. I sold three new DRB3s there a few years ago. You may also be able to still buy one through the dealer but they cost close to twice as much as most aftermarket scanners.

I just found that they are still available from the manufacturer:

http://www.toolsource.com/scan-tool-package-chrysler-jeep-dodge-p-98745.html

but the price will floor you. There appears to be a lot more used stuff out there now. I also came across a lot of them listed as being from China and Singapore. Not sure what that is all about.

"Genysis" is a popular aftermarket brand of scanner. I only used one a few times but got frustrated because it did not do what I knew the DRB3 could do. Snapon makes a few different models too but they are very proud of their stuff and charge accordingly for it. There are some less sophisticated scanners available that do much more than just read fault codes but it is the recording capability you should look for when you have problems that act up and are gone in a few seconds. When you have over a half hour to do the diagnosis, the "no-start" menu of tests will be what you want to follow.
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Tuesday, June 26th, 2012 AT 9:43 PM
Tiny
TIMMYTUCKER73
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I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and I had the same problem with mine stalling. I changed the ADS fuse in the engine bay fuse box it should be a 20 amp. I had to replace a couple time because the fuse blew about five times but after that it never did it again. I hope this helps
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Friday, November 22nd, 2013 AT 5:50 PM
Tiny
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Thank you for sharing that, but it does not match the symptoms here. Except for corrosion on a socket, a fuse will never be intermittent and cause an intermittent problem. When it blows, you are done until you replace it. When the engine starts again once it cools down, you know it was not a fuse problem.

Also, you did not find a cause for your fuse to be blowing so the problem is still there. (One common cause, especially if it is intermittent, is a wiring harness to an oxygen sensor fell down onto hot exhaust parts. There is a twelve volt feed wire from the ASD relay to the oxygen sensor heaters. If that grounds out it will cause the fuse to blow, but not until the ASD relay turns on.

If the problem of blowing fuses starts up again, a simple trick to finding a short is to replace the blown fuse with a pair of spade terminals, then use small jumper wires to connect them to a twelve volt light bulb. A brake light bulb works well. When the circuit is live and the short is present, the bulb will be full brightness and hot so be sure it is not laying on the carpet or against a plastic door panel. Now you can unplug electrical connectors and move things around to see what makes the short go away. When it does, the bulb will get dim or go out.

The problem with this is the bulb limits current to a safe level, but that causes the voltage to drop in that circuit, even when it's working properly and the short is not there. That means the ignition coil(s) will develop very low spark voltage. That can result in misfires or a failure to start. The ASD relay only turns on for one second after turning on the ignition switch, then again whenever the engine is rotating. That means the engine either has to run, or you have to do something else that allows you to power up the circuit. That is, in this case, bypassing the relay with a piece of wire. By jumping terminals 30 and 87 together, you can troubleshoot the circuit without even having to turn on the ignition switch.
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Friday, November 22nd, 2013 AT 11:22 PM

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