Code P1361?

Tiny
WILL18
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 155,000 MILES
HELP! I got p1361 and I don't know whats wrong with it anymore.
it's 1999 honda accord lx 2.3L ulev-tech. Engine code f23a4
Had a bad engine on it so I swap it with another 99 accord f23a4 engine. It start up and run fine but it wont let me go pass 3000rpm. I put in a new timing belt, water pump, cam seal, crank seal, rear main seal and spark plugs. Yes I gaped it. One thing that I dont know why is I put in 5 qts of oil and it only shows between low and full. I checked cooling system and it was fine. Since I have that code I swap out the crank sensor from other engine and it still do the same. I swap out the distributor and still do the same. I check all the connectors and it seem ok to me. I checked compression 1, 2, and 4 @ 150psi #3 at 140psi.
Friday, November 7th, 2014 AT 11:03 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check for loose wires and or connector at crank sensor. It's an intermittent signal from crank sensor. You may need a new connector but here is the sensor which I would replace first. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Tuesday, November 11th, 2014 AT 6:51 AM
Tiny
WILL18
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank u so much for the reply. I will do that today.
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Tuesday, November 11th, 2014 AT 11:04 AM
Tiny
WILL18
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I try another connector but its still the same. What should I try next?
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Tuesday, November 11th, 2014 AT 9:44 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Then you have to try resistance to computer, as it may be a shorted wire, or a bad ecm which if you have anti theft.
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Wednesday, November 12th, 2014 AT 6:29 AM
Tiny
WILL18
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Ok. Thank you sir. I changed the sensor all fixed! How Do I clear the codes?
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Wednesday, November 12th, 2014 AT 3:22 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
This video will show you

https://youtu.be/ahK_eucFi-k

Or you can try resetting the pcm first turn key off and pull fuse #13 clock backup for 10 seconds then reinstall and start car see if changes things.
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Wednesday, November 12th, 2014 AT 4:16 PM
Tiny
LEGEND_5
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1997 HONDA ACCORD
  • 60,000 MILES
The code shows and the car cuts off but will start again but cutover again?
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Thursday, November 26th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,644 POSTS
There is a problem with top dead center sensor circuit or sensor here is the location so you can replace the sensor first. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Thursday, November 26th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TURBOJAY
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  • 1 POST
Thanks for this post I had to get a new sensor all fixed!
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Thursday, November 26th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GARFIELD134
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1996 HONDA ACCORD
Last June my son bought a used one-owner 1996 Accord EX 4 door 5 speed manual transmission and the F22B1 4 cylinder 2.2L engine (V-TEC). The car has 124k miles on it and no rust.

The engine went sour in it this past summer. It developed a connecting rod knock. In the long run, it ended up being cheaper and simpler to replace the bad engine with a used engine. We found a 1997 F22B1 with 89k miles on it, bought it and installed it. We carefully labeled all vacuum hose and wiring connectors before separating the connections. There were no check engine lights in the car prior to disassembly. We removed the distributors from both the new and old engines prior to any lifting operations to protect the units. The new engine came from a car with an automatic transmission. Since my son’s car was free of check engine lights and all the electronics were working, we elected to transplant the original intake manifold assembly and wiring to the new engine. Wherever possible, we transplanted sensors and pickups from the old engine to the new. The only sensor that we missed was the crankshaft position sensor. We discovered that after the timing belts and accessories were already installed and decided to gamble that the position sensor was OK. Some of the large connectors had dielectric grease put in them prior to reassembly. However, we now have a pesky P1361 code check engine light (Intermittent Interruption in TDC 1 Sensor Circuit). We have tried rechecking and resetting the ignition timing and exchanged the distributor assemblies between the old and the new engines. After scanning the codes with a scanner and erasing the codes to put out the light, the engine runs fine (smooth and no misfire) until it hits 3000 RPM. The check engine light comes on again and the rev limiter kicks in at 3000 RPM. We disconnected all the multi-pin connectors and reinserted them with no avail. We also cleaned out all the dielectric grease from the connectors with Freon TF (degreaser). The light still reappears after hitting 3000 RPM for the first time. My next step is to remove the distributor again from the engine and clean the mating surfaces with the cylinder head to assure that there is not a grounding problem causing the intermittence. I have looked around on the Net and have found this Code many places but no one has ever posted how they fixed the problem. Perhaps I am wrong, but I somehow do not think the TDC sensor in the distributor is actually bad. Although it is possible, it is probably unlikely that I have 2 bad distributor assemblies. However, everything in the car was working when we started the disassembly / transplant process. Do you have any ideas?
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Thursday, November 26th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,754 POSTS
Did you put the ECU from the Auto in this vehicle?
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Thursday, November 26th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GARFIELD134
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Bruce,

Thanks for the fast response. No, we did not put the ECU from the donor car into our car. It was not available. Also, the donor car had an automatic transmission. Ours is a 5 speed, if that matters (unknown, although our wiring harness was slightly different. Backup light switch primarily).

I considered the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) alignment in relationship to the TDC sensor, like fisherman mentioned but was not looking froward to removing the timing belts again. Although, maybe I can remove the bottom belt cover and get at the CPS. However, the CPS that is in the engine now is the one that came with the new engine and it has never, at least as long as we have had it, been out of the car or adjusted.

Another thought I had was to disconnect the CPS and see if the codes "flip flop" (IE. The TDC code goes away and the CPS code appears). If the codes change, the CPS is likely out of adjustment, like you said.

Thanks, I'll try it, but probably not until the weekend when I have more time. :-)
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Thursday, November 26th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)

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