will not start

You don't have a carburetor. It's fuel injected. You need to first test the fuel pressure using a fuel pressure gauge and then check the injector pulse using a noid light bulb. Post back with the results.

This guide should help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start


Please run down this guide and report back.

I have a dodge dakota sport with a 3.9 liter V6 and it has been sitting for like 5 months so me and my brother went to start it and it started up fine so we let it warm up for a while and my brother has never driven a standard but he said he knew how to shift and when he went to back it up it stalled at now it just turns over and over and over but will not start. I replaced the distributor cap and coil and it still will not start can you help me out?

check your mass airflow sensor and air filter, something could ve even crawled in there and caused a problem, check the breather filter too inside the aircleaner. buy some cleaner that is safe with mass airflow sensors, and clean the area out if necessary, follow all instructions though,. by the way ,is there any engine lights on?

the airbag light comes on and the engine light comes on

its a shame that you cant get it to autozone for a free computer scan, cause that will take care of half of the problem right a way, I think they rent their tools for free, you just have to put a small retainer down and you get it back when you bring the tool back. they probably rent out their scan tools

I recently purchased the 5.9L dodge dakota (1999)from an auction, so I had no previous history on the engine. The engine cranks but will not start. There is spark and fuel, but the compression is really low...about 60psi in each cylinder. Do you believe that the engine not being started since 2006 is playing a part in this low reading due to the lack of no oil circulation? Or are the rings simply shot? I plan on draining the fuel tank and replacing with fresh gasoline, and I plan on putting in new sparkplugs...as the originals look and smell moist of old fuel, not oil.

Might want to performm a cylinder leakage test could be the valve timing is off or belt/chain slipped-off a few notches

If the timing mark on the balancer is at TDC and the distributor is pointing at #1 cylinder that the timing chain is positioned properly?

If no.1 piston is on it compression/TDC and TDC lined up on the crankshaft pulley/timing marks and rotor pointing to no.1 cap tower, you're all set to go the valve timing is aligned.

Engine is getting gas and spark, turns over but will not start. Changed spark plugs and wires, rotor and distributor. Engine started before tune up but ran very rough.

Hi:
When you checked for spark, were you getting a good hot blue snapping spark? Also, have you tried to see if it will start with starting fluid? Starting fluid is more volitale and will burn with a weaker spark. Also, when you checked for fuel, did you make sure the injectors are getting power?

Let me know.

Joe

Thanks for your answer Joe. The truck is getting a good spark when it turns over. I am not sure how the injectors are powered, but I have never had any problems with the injectors and I can smell gasoline so I am pretty certain that I am getting fuel through the injectors. The timing also seems to be set correctly...I have taken everything apart and reassembled it more times than I can count...I am at a total loss!

If you have spark, fuel, compression, and the timing is correct, it has to run. Something is wrong with one of them. If you remove a plug, is it wet? I realize you are getting spark, but I'm wondering if it is hot enough.

As far as the injectors, for future reference, they make what is called a noid light. All you do is unplug the injector and plug the light in. When you crank the engine, it will light up (pulse) if there is power going to the injector.

Have you checked the engine compression? Also, if you can, after trying to start it, remove one of the plugs to see if it is wet with gas.

Let me know.
Joe

I started my truck it ran for ten minutes. I drove forty to fifty yards and check system light came on and the lights went dim, white smoke rolled from under hood. I shut truck off popped hood and there was thick white smoke. after the smoke cleared I see antifreeze but cannot find a leak and truck will not start back up. I checked fluid levels and it looks as if there is enough coolant I can touch it with my finger.

fill coolant up and pressure check for leaks. you may have blown a head gasket and it may be locked due to this.

Try turning crankshaft with a socket on harmonic balancer pulley bolt to see if engine has seized

Hey JAMES,

What did the smoke smell like? Was it electrical? If so it could be the power leads down by the starter touched ground.

Do the dash lights come on?

Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken

hey guys i had to make a stop at a gas station and when i came back to my truck i try to start it, it kinda started and then died complete and could not start it again so i called my mechanic friend and the battery was not look so good so we went to get one and when we replaced it, it still would not start kinda werid the gauge work sometimes and then never we had a clicking noise come from the fuse box and so we started to take fuses out to find out what is could be we found it stop with the ignition one out and started again when we put it back in dont know if that is a ignition switch or something else

its not cranking
you have a starter relay to check
and the starter
if its cranking but no start
check for spark and fuel pressure
switch relays( ASD ) around
crank sensor????
let me know

From: redwall17
To: BMRFIXIT
Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 12:19 pm

you need to check the fuses and fusible links
get a test light and get going on the fuses anl links too
check ground

It has been really weird weather lately and very wet. My car will turn over and over but never start. I didn't know if it was weather related or maybe another issue, I didn't know where the distributor cap was located to see if it had any water in it. Hope you can help.

Thanks,
Ryan

[quote:4b37d2c402="rbsoc2"]Engine problem
1999 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 178000 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
It has been really weird weather lately and very wet. My car will turn over and over but never start. I didn't know if it was weather related or maybe another issue, I didn't know where the distributor cap was located to see if it had any water in it. Hope you can help.

Thanks,
Ryan[/quote:4b37d2c402]
mid back of engine
check the wires and may be its time for a tune up
check if you have spark out of the coil
also check the coil they fail more often

How do you check the spark out of the coil?

[quote:a8dc9b11a3="BMRFIXIT"][quote:a8dc9b11a3="rbsoc2"]Engine problem
1999 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 178000 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
It has been really weird weather lately and very wet. My car will turn over and over but never start. I didn't know if it was weather related or maybe another issue, I didn't know where the distributor cap was located to see if it had any water in it. Hope you can help.

Thanks,
Ryan[/quote:a8dc9b11a3]
mid back of engine
check the wires and may be its time for a tune up
check if you have spark out of the coil
also check the coil they fail more often[/quote:a8dc9b11a3]

Truck broke down coming off interstate. Smoke coming from intake manifold. Looked through throttle body and noticed pool of oil all across bottom about 1/2 in. deep. Researched and replaced steel belly pan with Hughes reinforcement kit for the 5.9 Magnum. All that work and the truck cranks but wont start. Has fuel to the rails and spark to plugs. Also installed headers,plugs,wires, thermostat and reconditioned fuel injectors. Why wont this thing start? Please help, thank you.

Hi vtecnit, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Check the fuel pressure if its within specs if okay continue on to the injectors making sure its pulsing providing fuel to cylinders. Let me know

Have been having an intermittant starting problem for 2years. it would start within 1-3 switch turns
The battery is new and was starting good, within 1-3 switch turns. Now it starts within 20-50 switch turns. Is it the starter, the starter switch or the solenoid ?

Thank you, Ron

Pick your symptoms

Crank and will not start:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

No crank at all/nothing/nada:

Could be a blown fusible link the starter, starter relay, clutch switch/park and neutral switch/transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good. Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it.

My Dakota has been starting fine until a few days ago. It was starting fine a few weeks before problem with the temperatures below 0. I started having this problem when it was in the 30's outside, only when cold. The engine turned over fine but wouldn't kick over after cranking several times for 20 or 30 seconds each time. I thought is was flooded so I floored the accelerator and eventually it started. This happed for 3 to 4 days leaving home and leaving work. Once it started, it ran fine, and started fine if I just shut off while warm to get gas or go into store. The last day I couldn't get it started so it's been sitting since than. I did a fuel pressure check and the pressure goes up to 46-48 psi which is within the spec. The pressure went from 48 to 35 psi in 10 minutes 1st time, and 46 to 26 in 30 minutes 2nd time. This leakdown rate seems to be within limits from my Haynes repair manual, but I assume that a leaky injector must be my problem, do you agree? How do I determine what injector is leaking, at $73 apiece I don't want to just go out & buy a set of 6. What would be your suggestion on figuring out this problem?

Thanks
Iroc_Russ

Hook up the gauge and turn key to On get the reading -monitor the pressure for atleast 5mins-if it drops fast to zero within that 5mins-it leaking pressure could be the fuel pressure regulator or injector/s

Try running the fuel pressure check again this time with and without vacuum at the fuel pressure regulator.\ while engine is running.

To test the injector you have to remove it -

I did the 5 minute test as stated in my first note. As I said the pressure went down but did not go below the acceptable pressure within the allowed time (lower than 30 psi within 5 minutes) as the manual suggest, although it went down to 35 psi in 10 minutes. My question was even though my pressure did not go below the stated 30 psi within 5 minutes, do you think that the injectors are the problem? If so how do I figure out which one is leaking through? If the regulator was leaking I believe it would be back to the fuel tank, thus would not be leaking back to the cylinder and causing hard starting. As soon as I turn the key on the pressure goes up immediately. I'm sure the reason the vehicle doesn't start easy is because it's flooded, but after it does start it runs fine. My pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump module on the top of my fuel tank, so it is not easily accessible, what other suggestions would you have about this. Is there anything other than the injectors you think could be the problem?

Thanks

Inspect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose for fuel-if the diagphram is leaking fuel will be sucked into the intake manifold.

The coolant temperature sensor throws fuel to it for initial cold starts and if its lock in open loop mode it will constantly be running rich-same goes with the oxygen sensor.

Injector and the regulator will be the only place for it to leak and dump fuel

Hello,
I have a 1999 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2 liter 318. I have been having problems starting after wet conditions after the truck has been sitting for a day. I have automotive experience and I am very good at trouble shooting. I have replaced the distributor cap, rotor button, and plug wires and spark plugs last year. I might have put 10k on since. It started great all summer and I use it as a work truck. It is a gas aholic so I commute with a car. I love my truck but I am getting frustrated with the issue. Dodge trucks in there older years always had moisture issues. This truck was doing great up until recently. I have replaced the fuel pump a few years ago because it failed on me on the road. It almost seems like its not firing the gas. I think because it sits more now that something has become corroded. If that was the case it wouldn't start in any weather. On a dry day it starts within seconds. I don't see any bad wires or connections. It does start after turning it over a lot. I mean a lot. What should I look for? Is this still a mopar issue? Is there something I spay to dry it out? It does run great after it starts.
Thank you

We need to know for sure if it has spark or not.If it does, get a noid light and test for injector pulse. Get back with what you come up with

[quote:0720f9c2a5="2CarPro Jack"]We need to know for sure if it has spark or not.If it does, get a noid light and test for injector pulse. Get back with what you come up with[/quote:0720f9c2a5]
I haven't purchased a noid light kit yet. We also haven't had rain since I posted last time so the truck has started right up. However I did make a purchase with an auto scanner plus tool made by Actron. It was on sale and thought this may help with all the cars in my family. When I took the truck out on the highway I mashed the gas and it did spit and sputter. The engine light came on and stayed on. I connected the scanner and it told me I had multiple misfires. I had a misfire with #4 cylinder and #7 cylinder. There were no other codes. We are going to get a big snow storm tomorrow. If it doesn't start I will connect the scanner. I have new plugs, wires, and distributor cap and rotor button. I will continue to try isolated the problem. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.
Matthew

Keep us posted on the results

[quote:95d5232ba2="2CarPro Jack"]Keep us posted on the results[/quote:95d5232ba2]
It is snowing here now. I had a hard time starting the truck today. I use it for plowing our driveway. I didn't get an engine code until I drove to my parent’s house. It spit and sputtered enough to make the light come on. Again it was the P0300 multi misfire and P0304 which is cylinder 4 misfire and P0306 cylinder 6 misfire. This happens driving down the road low RPM then giving it lots of gas to fast it is spitting. That caused the engine light. It will also spit and sputter from idle flooring it real quick. It comes out of it around 4K RPM. If you give it gas slow in park it doesn't spit and sputter. I took # 4 plug out and it looked beautiful. Nice golden tan brown. There wasn't a bit of carbon on it. I am wondering if it could be the distributor Pick up or the coil. I don’t think it's the coil but it does look beat. Like you said it could be the injectors not keep up or working when they need to. I know it’s not the computer because I have an extra 1 with the performance chip that makes me run high octane. It does the same thing with each module. I think it’s the wet weather that keeps throwing me off. I tarpped the truck and it didn't help this morning. What ever it is it is very sensitive to moisture after sitting for a day. It's in the electrical. I did put dry gas in the truck just to be sure.
Thanks

the truck ran i parked it and i went to start it, it stutterd and stalled. wont start now. put it in the shop and checked all fuses and relys all checks out good. if your familiar with the wireing, the two wires that go to the pickup coil are green with orange stripe and black with gray stipe. when testing for power, the green has power for about two seconds when i turn the key on, same with black. the two seconds is the same time the fuel pumps kicks on when you turn the key on. take the rely out and the power to the rely is the same two seconds. when i crank the engine, the test light shown no power. i checked that there is fuel by pressing the bleed off valve on the injection supply line. i have not pulled the spark plug out to test for spark beause of the power issue. also the coil, cap, wires, and plugs are all new one year ago, i took that all apart and it all looks clean, also now corrosian in any conections. i hope this is a thurough diagnosis, if you can help, that would be great. thank you, sam

Hello,
Problem solved. I replaced the coil because of how bad it looked. It turns out it was cracked underneath in 2 locations. It runs great no spitting or sputtering. I purchased the part at NAPA for $50.
Thank you
Matthew

Sam:
that was a great diagnosis. Now the question is why isn't the coil getting power for mor than two seconds. I believe there is an ignition relay in the power distribution box. If you are not getting power to it, my concern is the computer. You may want to have it checked.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

hi thanks for responding. yes i checked the power supply to the rely, the power supply cuts out after two seconds. no keep in mind, i tested it again today with the same results, two seconds, and then i cranked it again, and i fired, so i got jumper cables the battery was getting down, and i started it up and it ran didnt want to idle very good, but after i rand it for a couple minuits it idled fine. i left for the day, came back and it started right up again, i drove i around for 15 min, it was fine. went to leave town and it quit again. came back in an hour, put jumpers on agiain, dumped gas in it, thought it might be that stupid of a gas gage not working, and it fired up and idled on its own for five minuites and it stalled again. i cant get it started now again. i did all the same things i did before to get it started. im wondering if it is the ignition coil itself. i did not put a test light on the green wire when it was running, i was just so excited that it was runing i took it for a drive. thanks for your respons this has shore throne a big curve at me.