Hesitation and high Idle after cold start

I decided to go ahead and test some electrical parts before doing the fuel pressure test.
I probed the wires of the fuel pump harness, and have attached an image of it. As an example to what I wrote below, the yellow/red wire is the top left connection on the harness and so forth.

Fuel Pump Harness Wires:

|Yellow/Red| |Green/White| |Brown|
|Blue| |White|

Yellow/Red has power in ON position only.
Green/White has power in ON position only
Blue has power RUN position only
Brown has no power ON or RUN
White has no power ON or RUN

Fuses and Relays:
Checked fuses under hood and in fuse compartment next to driver seat - all are ok

Saw another article on Car2Pros claiming the fuel pump relay to this 1997 Camry is labeled as CIR OPN.
The CIR OPN relay “clicks” when the key is in the ON position, so my assumption is it’s good. To double check I swapped it with the heater relay, which is exactly the same relay(specs and all) and it did the same thing.

I did the fuel pressure test today.

The following was done on a cold car as that’s where problems are being experienced.

I depressurized the fuel system by opening the gas cap.

I removed the original banjo bolt to the fuel filter, and I found no fuel squirting from the line. No fuel in the fuel rail I believe or no pressure.

With the banjo bolt cracked loose I turned the key to the ON position to see if fuel pump primes or gives slight pressure and I received no fuel pressure squirting from the cracked open banjo bolt.

I swapped the original banjo bolt with an adapter and connected my fuel pressure gauge.

With the banjo bolt adapter tightened to the fuel filter, I turned the key to the ON position and no reading was given.

I turned over the car and the pressure raised from 0 to 49 psi at about 1400 rpms initial start up.

As the engine warmed up and rpm settled to 1000, fuel pressure did not change. At this point I did a snap acceleration and fuel pressure changes only 1-2 psi so possibly 48-50. Very little change.
The guide you provided claims that if no pressure changes during snap acceleration the fuel pressure regulator could be bad.
I also did a gradual increase of acceleration which had no affect on fuel pressure.

I shut off the car and proceeded to do this on a semi-warm engine to see if closed loop would make a difference.

I have attached a video doing the same steps as above and fuel pressure does not change either open or closed loop.

My thought right now is the fuel pressure regulator as the guide claims?
However, the fact that I have two connections with no power on the fuel pump harness also makes me unsure. One could be ground maybe?
The other I am not sure about.

We do not have a new MAF Sensor in the car. However, I have tried two different ones (same part number OEM) and have experienced no change at all.
They are around $300.00 new and would not spend that money for something I can snag from the junkyard just to test if it is going out.

I have not changed any oxygen sensors on this car, because most of the issues occur right away on a cold start - open loop. My scan tool shows O2 data. I have attached a list of supported live data.
I have also recorded the O2 data for your reference - the car is at operating temperature at this point.

Back to the fuel pressure, would it be worth looking into the harness as I had 2 connections with no power?
Do you know what would cause fuel pressure not to move during quick/gradual acceleration?