Hesitation and high Idle after cold start

I don’t know what your level of experience is, but my Bluetooth scan tool analyzes short and long term fuel trim, perhaps it could be useful so I decided to post it. I don’t know how to read it but I’ll look into fuel trim and the OEM coolant sensor as well.

Just to confirm, Bank 2 would be the side wherever the second cylinder is correct? On the 1MZ-FE engine that would be the front of the engine if I am assuming correctly.

Idle (Cold Start) Fuel Trims.

1,500 rpm fuel trim (car beginning to warm up). Car is in Park.

2,500 rpms Fuel Trim (Car is almost at operating temp, Car is in park)

Idle Fuel Trim Again (Car is practically at operating temperature. Car is in Park. This is after the 2,500 rpm test)

I removed Bank 2 spark plugs (I think that’s bank 2). They all look the same. They do not smell like gas. They are not covered with oil. However, I noticed that the valve cover gasket may be starting to leak in the middle cylinder (cylinder 4). Can a leaking valve cover gasket cause a vacuum leak?

As for the fuel trims, it seems to me like there is a gasket vacuum leak? Perhaps intake manifold as it swells up when the car gets warm?

*Note* the first fuel trim video (the one that you told me to check the spark plugs) was me actually driving the car yesterday, the car was at operating temperature. I should have clarified.

I have a small smoke machine and I ran smoke (burned mineral oil) through the vacuum lines by connecting it to the brake booster hose. This thing makes a bunch of smoke, has a compressor hooked up to it, and I could not find any noticeable vacuum leaks around the intake or exhaust manifold.

But, I found a small crack in a section of the air intake hoses. After replacing the hose, the Long Term Fuel Trim is around 3 now (was 6). So that helped a little. All Fuel trims are now within +/- 10

Still have the same issue -
My idle on cold start does not drop under 1000 rpm's unless I actually drive it around. Still creeps quite fast. Seems to consume a lot of fuel during the cold start. Engine takes about 2 seconds to start up.

I will be replacing the ECT with an OEM part as next steps.

As for the injectors I do not think that is the problem. I have no issues with acceleration. What could be happening to them that relates to the issue?

I have tried a different MAF Sensor and it did not change the idle of the car cold or warm. It was one that I pulled from the Junkyard (Denso and same part number), but my scan tool shows both of them giving the same values during live data.

I appreciate you keeping up with this Ken. I have gotten quite busy these last two weeks.

This weekend I plan on:
Removing the rear spark plugs and taking a picture of them for the fuel injectors.

Replacing the ECT with an OEM unit.

I also plan on smoke testing the car while it’s cold to see if smoke comes out of the gaskets or some other place.
(I did it on a warm engine last time)
Could it be possible for a vacuum leak from the brake booster. I connect my smoke machine to that hose so how could I check the booster for leaks?

Rear 3 plugs, they seem to look the same as the front 3.

Update: OEM Coolant Temperature Sensor did not resolve issue. I think it takes the car less time to settle the idle upon cold start, but the difference is too insignificant.

Yes, I replaced the fuel filter about 2 months ago. Bought it from AutoZone.

As for the fuel pressure test, the 1MZ-FE 3.0 L engine in my car does not have a schrader valve to hook up a gauge to.

All I found was this article for the 2.2L Camry:

https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/toyota/2.2L/how-to-test-the-fuel-pump-2#2

Basically they put in another banjo bolt with an adapter for the Schrader valve where the fuel filter banjo bolt is. Although the guide is for the 2.2 L engine, I have access to that same banjo bolt as well as another one at the fuel rail. Could this be an alternative way to test the fuel pressure?

Also, I could not locate a fuel pressure regulator. I believe it’s under the rear seat where the fuel pump is but I’m not sure.
I have attached pictures of both banjo bolts and a picture of my fuel pressure test kit.

How would I go about checking/testing the fuel pressure regulator? It is attached to the fuel pump housing so there is no vacuum line to check for fuel drips like a regular one in the guide.

Would it be worth to inspect any fuses/relays first?

No I do not hear any noise coming from the fuel pump. I took the seat off an had someone help me switch it to ON and no noise. Do all fuel pumps make that priming noise?