High idle speed on cold start up?

Engine Performance problem
2003 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Hi Pros- I removed the throttle duct and cleaned the butterfly with an approved cleaner. When I put it back together, it idles at 2K rpm to start, then drops to 1200 and fluctuates. I took off the throttle body and cleaned it, blew out the hoses. No help. No codes are set. Any ideas? Thanks, Wes

Hello,

I have a 2003 Toyota Camry and sometimes when i'm driving or at a complete stop my rpm's start reving high at over 2000. When it does this the thermostat drop all the way to L like I just started the card in the cold. Then all the sudden it like it fixes it self. The thermostat goes back to normal and the rpm's drop back to normal. It doesn't doo it all the time. Do you have any sugestions. I'm not a mechanic and don't have a code reader. I just need to know where to start. I have a warranty, I just want to know if it something I can fix for under the $100.00 deductible that my warranty has. Thanks -Rich

I would pay a donation on this site and have one of their mechanics tell you what's wrong.
It sounds like you have a sensor that is incorrectly reading the engine temperature as ice cold, so it puts in more fuel. When it puts in more fuel its like you are pushing down on the accelerator pedal and the engine revs go way up. Just for fun I'm guessing coolant temperature sensor, but I'm no mechanic, I only work on our own cars. Pay the donation & one of the experts will tell you what it is.

Long story but I think it may all be related. 2.4L 4cyl. 2002 Toyota Camry SE. Automatic. No turbo. American built. 185,000 miles.
March of 2015 had to replace starter. Had to remove air filter housing(AFH) to access the starter. Attached to the back of the AFH was a VSV. (OEM #90910-12199) While detaching lines, I broke one nipple on VSV. Not even sure of it's function but tried to rig a fix (not 100%). Shortly after (within the next week) it set a CEL and code which has stayed on since but I didn't really notice any difference in how the car ran. >> To present time.
2yr old battery went dead. Needed to replace alternator and battery, but when I hooked the new battery up, I had low idle and stalling at stops. This did not get better after a number of drives. So looked up solution video's and decided to do several things as long as I was going to replace the alt.
Ordered new alt, VSV, PCV, and got throttle body cleaner and MAF cleaner.
Replaced badly gunked PCV. Cleaned MAF (wire was black with carbon) and inner elements too.
Carefully cleaned throttle body taking care not to disturb butterfly position. Cleaned with toothbrush both outer area and inner area behind butterfly.
Just behind the butterfly was an opening (port for IAC valve?). I tried to at least get repeated spray with cleaner into the small opening.
Replaced VSVButtoned it all up.
Started. Took out for a good drive. Several over the next week. Check engine light is now gone and has stayed out. Computer reset to about 750rpm and stayed that way for about a week more.
Now, on cold start up, it revs to about 1000 - 1100rpm's and stays there until put in gear. Then it goes back to 750 and is rock steady. Overall I think the engine is performing better. Sounds and runs great.
But could a still dirty IAC be causing the high idle? I didn't really even see it when cleaning the throttle body, and assume I would have had to remove the TB to access the IAC.
Also, while removing the air intake ducting I had to remove lines from another part that looked somewhat like the VSV on the back of the AFH. In fact I had to remove and reattach a number of air (vacuum?) Lines and wonder if I may have caused another leak. After all these lines are 13 years old now, but I see no collapsing or cracking of them.
Can you steer me in a likely direction?

Hmac,
Something is confusing me. I read here in one Throttle body cleaning guide that electronic throttle engines do not have an IAC. The computer controls the throttle plate at start up to get the right air/fuel mix.
Also, every picture I see shows the iac intake hole in FRONT of the plate on the throttle bore.
The small hole I mentioned trying to clean sits BEHIND the plate on my bore.
So does this Camry engine even have an IAC valve or what?

Cold start engine revs to 1500 RPM in park. I consider that too high. IMZ-FE engine.
Car will jerk (and I cringe) when trans in put into drive or reverse unless foot is firmly on brake. My other cars don't have this high of an idle at cold start.

The RPM's decrease after about five minutes of normal driving to about 600-700 in drive.
I've cleaned the throttle plate of carbon with carb cleaner. But no change in cold start RPM's.
Is there an adjustment to decrease cold start RPM's? If so, can you please describe in detail?
Thanks!

I just bought a camry v6, I found the idle RPM very high, about 1.5K rpm, is there someone could show me how to adjust.

Another problem is vibration, seems missing, I have replaced new spark plugs, but still there.

One more problem is oil missing, I change oil and put full level. The car after ran 1000Km, I check the oil level, it is near dry, I have to put about 3L oil, then to the full level, but no blue smoke, I have replaced rocker cover gasket, the engine is dry.

Hello and thanks for your help.
The car always idles at 1800 rpm for approx 5 minutes when cold. The throtle controller has been cleaned twice and seems to lower the idle on cold starts to 1400 rpm for a few weeks, then it goes back to 1800. Once the engine is warm it starts up and idles perfect. I think that idle controller may beed to be replaced.

Thank You Very Much,
Sincerely,
Steve Savoy

2002 Toyota Camry mileage: 2,400. Upon cold start-up, my new Camry jumps to approximately 2,000 RPM for about five seconds and then the Rpms drop to about 1,500 Rpm. I fear that this initial jump is too high for cold warm-ups. Is this initial jump typical of the new Camry's? Should it be taken in? It does this every time it is cold started.

The cold fast idle Rpm is controlled by the computer. If there is a malfunction causing this to idle toohigh, scanning the computer should tell you what is wrong.

I discovered that the oil level in my car is getting less and less. I travel about 26 miles to and from work every week. The rpm's of my car is high when cold starting around 1.8 rpm's. After traveling for 2 to 3 minutes the rpm's return to normal. My mechanic did check both the injectors and the timing and everything seemed fine. What do I do? Any expert advice would be highly appreciated.