Engine won't start

Do you hear the fuel pump come On for 2secs when you turn key on-if so check the actual fuel pressure if its within specs with a fuel pressure tester-If not check Ign E fuse 10 amp, fuel pump balance relay and fuel pump balance module

The balance fuel pump module controls the coil side of the fuel pump balance relay that's located at inside left side of frame rail near transmission crossmember

It starts, for a few seconds, but it only starts on the fuel thats in the rail. Then it dies and throws the same code, "p1351".

Then it won't start.I try and try, but nothing-When it does this be looking for spark too!

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge designed for your fuel system with and w/o vacuum to the regulator to rule out the FPR/Fuel pump.

Hello
Thanks for the donation.

Cold weather is very harsh on electrical components.

Chances are that if the fuel pump is not kicking in, you will need to test wiring and fuses. Test the fuses and relays for proper volts. Also test pump to see if it is getting power if relays/fuses are.

You stated that the relay "appears to be working", so does this mean that you tested it? Electrical components can be tricky so if you didn't test the relay, you can follow the provided link and test the relay per instructions to ensure it is working properly.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for using 2carpros. Com!

Hehe, sorry about that. Here is to link. I forgot the paste it last time..

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_do_i_check_a_relay.htm

Hello,

How was it running prior to it not starting?

When was last tune-up/ Plugs, Cap and Rotor? A corroded Cap and rotor will cause similar conditions.

Did the engine light come on at anytime?

Try this locate TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and Disconnect, then try to start. If starts replace TPS.

Post results.

The ignition timing is not adjustable.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Get the fuel pressure check and test the fuel pump relay

Check your fuel pump relay under hood and it's the gray wire leading to pump to power it. Also check fuses under hood as well as fusible links by starter.