Engine won't start

The engine will not start, it has good fuel pressure and it has spark. Engine will start with either.

That was the first step taken. The fuel psi is 65. It does have spark. I can get it to start with Ether then it dies out.

Timing already been checked. All fuses also checked. Note: the Initial problem was engine would not start because the fuel pump was bad. Changed pump/screen/ fuel filter. Now as good psi (65) good spark but still will not start. Starts Immediately With Ether and will continue to run if you keep spraying ether.

1997 Chevy Suburban

We've had the car for about a year. About 2 months ago I was driving on the freeway and the car just stopped, I had about a quarter of a tank of gas, it started again I got more gas and no issues until now. While driving on the freeway again it stopped, and wont start back up. It turns over but its like no fuel is getting to it?

Is there a way to check the spider and also could all of the injectors gone bad where none of them will inject /spray fuel? Is there a way to manually force fuel through the injectors to unclog them? I had a buddy form work that this exact same thing happened and believe it or not, I replaced the Distributor rotor and it solved the problem. Not here in my case. This has me stumped

Thank you for your helpful suggestions

My 97 454 Suburban won't start. Pulled spark plug and not getting spark when it turns over. Also no fuel pressure. Can't hear the fuel pump humming when I turn the key on. I'm pretty sure it's going to need a new fuel pump, but I'm stumped as to why I'm not getting spark when it turns over. Help?

I have a 1997 Suburban LT 4x4 w/109500 miles. I packed up the family to go to dinner but the Suburban would not start. It cranks very healthly but will not turn over. I suspected the fuel pump but when I turn the key to the "on" position I hear the "whirring" of the pump although it seems to be slightly louder than before. I replaced the fuel filter last year. If the fuel pump is "whirring" can it still be faulty? What else should I be looking at? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

TEST YOUR KNOWLEDGE ON THIS ONE! I'm very grateful in advance, for when you reply back to me. I'm trying to fix it before I have to pay to tow it.

Here's the situation: Truck is all stock 454, LS, save the Flowmasters. 155K, all highway miles, a little towing by the first owner, I'm the second. Won't start.

I parked in the parking lot at Whole Paycheck (Foods) and when I came out, it wouldn't start. I had a new ICM and Coil so I put that in right then and there and it started back up. Drove fine for a couple hours. Since then, it has started and immediately died several times, or just drove fine, but after sitting wouldn't start. Sometimes it wouldn't start when it was cool, sometimes when it was hot. It also started cold and hot at other times. It also started a couple times, but promptly died. I have tried 2 new, good ICM's, and I believe the ACDelco one I pulled out initially is probably fine.

I have replaced: Fuel pump and sock (Delphi OEM), fuel filter BWD, fuel pump Relay BWD (works great in friend's 454) ICM and Coil, Borg Warner cap and rotor are 6 mos old. Plugs and wires are 6 months old, OEM NGK. Had been running like a champ up until this point. When I pour gas or starter fluid in the intake it fires right up for a moment, then dies

I pulled the fuse block out and checked the wires underneath to trace out to pump. They are intact and just fine. Power at the relay / fuse block. P

Threw the code "p1351" several times. Ignition control, open, and Ignition control, high voltage. Is this from the PCM, even though the ICM controls startup? Is the PCM Controlling whether the Fuel Pump starts up?

I replaced a 9 month old Delphi OEM FP with the same. The new fuel pump worked just fine for a while, but now will NOT start to save it's own skin. I have cleaned all contacts at the frame and double checked the ground. It's fine.

I only had a test light with me where it died, so I hooked it up at the mid-harness connector on the frame. The common is good beige-ish brown, and with a 12v tester wire from the battery it was solid. I drew a light spark / ark on the hot lead - black / white. On the middle wire which was purple (no purple wire at the relay) the test lamp lit up very weekly, like it only had about 5-6 volts. This was tested with Key On, Engine Off - Engine won't start.

I attempted to hotwire the pump to drive it home, but couldn't get it to operate. I didn't know the exact way to wire that, but I tried everything I could - I think.

Have you ever had this problem or what does it seem like to you?

Is there either a temp or oil sensor that would prevent the PCM from letting the FP run?

Would the code p1351 cause the PCM to keep the pump off?

I look forward to when you write back to me. Thank you.

Hi Raz, I did just as you suggested, and the pump was a no go. I don't know if it's the pump or the harness / sending unit, so I'm going to replace the sending unit tomorrow and check the pump, but I'll check the pump first. If it's the pump, then it's really unfortunate that I ended up with 2 bad OEM pumps in such a short period of time.

Would this throw the p1351 code?