Engine cranks but won't start?

First check if you have spark. Next, read and record any diagnostic fault codes. Chrysler makes doing that yourself easier than any other manufacturer. Cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds without cranking the engine, leave it in "run", then count the flashes of the Check Engine light. You'll see a series of flashes for the first digit of the code, a pause, then a series of flashes for the second digit. There will be a longer pause before the next code shows up the same way. Disregard codes 12 and 55. "55" will always be the last one. If you miscount, turn the ignition switch off, then back to "run" right away and the sequence should repeat. List the codes in your reply. These guides can help us fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jeep-diagnostic-trouble-codes-for-car-built-on-or-before-1995-odb1

Please run down these guides and report back.

None of the parts you mentioned will cause this symptom. You know all the spark plugs did not fail at once, then magically start working again when they cool down. Start by checking the diagnostic fault codes. You can do that yourself by going here:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/retrieve-trouble-codes-for-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-odb1-1995-and-earlier-car-mini-van-and-light-trucks

The most common cause of this is a failing crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor, depending on which engine you have. They commonly fail by becoming heat-sensitive, then they work again when they cool down. You can verify that by checking for spark when the no-start is occurring. If it is missing, the next step is to determine if the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay is turning on. I can help with that.

Did you put it back in exactly as it came out?

Roy

Re set it and give it a try

Roy

(Different guy)

I'm sending "david and chad" to give you a hand

Class 1

Http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a2x9msslqy

Class 2

Http://www.youtube.com/watch?nr=1&v=fhx1yxvyimg&feature=endscreen

If you did not mark the body of the distributor and the engine, you are gonna need a timing light and the "exact" procedure in setting the timing (might have to disconnect a wire or vacuum line while timing)

One of these is very helpful for doing it right

Http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2007-ford-taurus-tune-up

Keep us posted on progress

The medic

Good morning.

After this amount of time, you will need to drop the fuel tank, drain out the old fuel, replace the pump and change the filter.

There is no additive you can use for old bad fuel. The line to the injectors needs to be cleaned as well. Fuel separates over time and will not mix again.

Do you have good spark?

Roy

Did you visually check for spark at the plugs? If spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel. If you checked fuel pressure, what is the spec? You may have to do a cylinder compression test. Are there any applicable mil trouble codes?

Have you checked for spark?

The ignition system, injectors, alternator, and indirectly, the fuel pump all get their current from the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay. The Engine Computer turns that relay on when it sees pulses from the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. Given the recent history of the engine replacement, did you use a thick paper spacer when reinstalling the crankshaft position sensor? If not, it can be slid in too far where it will hit the flex plate and be broken, or it can be installed not far enough where it generates a signal that is too weak.

You can prove the ASD relay isn't turning on by measuring the voltage on the dark green / orange wire, (I think) at the ignition coil, any injector, or either small wire on the back of the alternator. You should see battery voltage there for only one second after turning on the ignition switch. What is important is that voltage must come back during cranking. If it does not, check the cam and crank sensors.