Engine has stalled

Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MECHANIC
  • 6,110 POSTS
Wrenchtech uses a different reference that we do. A better one. According to both references, Pin 22 should be light blue/orange, and be the fuel pump negative enable. For the 4.0 liter engine. Our reference shows the same thing for the 2.3 engine as well.
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Thursday, April 5th, 2012 AT 4:06 AM
Tiny
REEDBONE
  • MEMBER
  • 75 POSTS
I understand but pin 22 is white and my pcm is round like a circle and. Pin 21 is the color ur telling me and it runs to pin 85 on fuel pump relay
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Thursday, April 5th, 2012 AT 11:30 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
You're not even looking at the right module.
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Thursday, April 5th, 2012 AT 12:21 PM
Tiny
REEDBONE
  • MEMBER
  • 75 POSTS
Then where is it rivermike rat sent me a diagram it said by the brake booster on driver side on firewall
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Thursday, April 5th, 2012 AT 12:56 PM
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MECHANIC
  • 6,110 POSTS
Wrenchtech, Mit1 is showing his PCM by the brake booster. What's AllData say about it?
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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 3:28 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Yes, that's where it is but he's still testing the wrong module.
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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 9:54 AM
Tiny
REEDBONE
  • MEMBER
  • 75 POSTS
No mine is differnt it just had a brand new motor put in it not to long ago and the switches
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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 10:12 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Yeah, sure it is. What do we know.
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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 10:14 AM
Tiny
REEDBONE
  • MEMBER
  • 75 POSTS
It is thats the only plug like that and it has all the wires. Ran to it.I cant find anything else with that many wires
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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 10:28 AM
Tiny
CL1180
  • MEMBER
  • 25 POSTS
  • 1993 FORD RANGER
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 188,000 MILES
I am currently having a problem with my truck choking out or stalling right after it starts. It will run intermittently from time to time but only for a few minutes. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, flushed the tank, replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, air filter, removed catalytic converter, checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned throttle body, and basically at a loss.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
The fuel pump is a remote possibility, but none of the other parts are going to cause the symptom you described. The first thing you have to do, assuming the engine will not restart right away, is when the problem is occurring, check for loss of spark. If that is missing, the best suspects are the TFI module on the side of the distributor, then the pick-up assembly inside the distributor.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CL1180
  • MEMBER
  • 25 POSTS
I will look into it today. I do not think the fuel pump would be an issue. I just replaced it 2 days ago. Thanks for the input and I will go through the ignition side of things. Thanks

Craig
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CL1180
  • MEMBER
  • 25 POSTS
Well I replaced the tfi module just because I've tried everything else. The truck will start as it it has and seems to run and idle fine for about 5 to 10 minutes. Then the rpms drop from about 900 to around 400 and stalls out and it acts like this for the rest of the day and makes it hard to troubleshoot. The fuel pump is brand new, I cleaned the iacv, it has spark and what ltitle time I have to check for vacuum leaks I haven't found any. It just seems to be starving for air or fuel after running perfectly for those 5 to 10 minutes. This has become the most confusing automotive problem I've ever dealt with. Are there any other valves or fuel check points I should look into before I just go all out and pull this SOB?
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CL1180
  • MEMBER
  • 25 POSTS
So I have narrowed it down to the MAF/MAS. I unplugged it and the truck started right up and seemed to idle just fine. I let it run for about 20 minutes with no problems. I went down and bought a new MAS this is after I cleaned the first one, and plugged everything back in. The same problem occurred. I unplugged the new MAS and the truck ran fine. What would make the MAS malfunction in such a way that unplugging it would make the difference. The plug itself looks fine and I cleaned it with some electronics spray.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
The most common suspect is a leak in the fresh air tube between the mass air flow sensor and throttle body. Any air that sneaks in without going through the sensor doesn't get measured, and no fuel is included in the fuel metering calculations. When you unplug the sensor, The Engine Computer detects that, and knows it can't rely on those readings. It defaults to a back-up strategy by which it injects approximate values based on other sensor readings and operating conditions. The MAP sensor becomes the main contributor.

Watch the MAF readings on a scanner, and see what happens when the stalling occurs.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CL1180
  • MEMBER
  • 25 POSTS
Thank you very much. Its driveable now so I can get it to a friend with a scanner and go from there. Thanks again.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CL1180
  • MEMBER
  • 25 POSTS
  • 1993 FORD RANGER
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 138,000 MILES
Just recently I acquired my old pickup from my parents which sat around for about a year until I went to pick it up and drive it home when it died a few miles from my house. It would crank over with no start. I had the trucked towed and replaced the fuel filter the next day and the truck started right up but ran really rough like it was going to flood or had lack of air or fuel, but was running at a very high idle. I did a little investigating thinking it might be the fuel pump or inertia cut off switch. I checked the switch and I can hear the pump come on when I turn the key and they both seem to be good. I then got a little deeper, removed and cleaned the IAC sensor and MAF sensor with electrical cleaner. After that I tried starting the truck and it now turns over and starts for about 3 seconds and dies, but when it starts it starts it jumps to around 2400 rpms and shuts off. I replaced plugs, plug wires, coil, air filter, and changed the oil and still having the same issue. Starts and runs for 3 seconds @ around 2400 rpms and dies. Any ideas?
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Clean throttle plate on both sides as well as iac hole, check for a vacuum leak hoses, cracked soft etc. And check fuel pressure with a gauge. Autoparts rent that
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CL1180
  • MEMBER
  • 25 POSTS
I will try both of those and see what happens. Thank you for the reply.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)

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