I need help getting my car running after fuse box, lights and other parts stolen

Here's what I have:
Full payment up front

To which I add:
All the info, name address, phone number, Driver's license number, license plate of car.
Because I'll need their info to be sure the MVD knows who its sold to if they take off. If they're the type to take off, they're the type to get the car and me in trouble for any misdeeds.

Be sure the key they use will be a single key. I know you said it doesn't matter, but the main key is with the other keys on my key chain. So the test drive should be only one key so they don't take the others.

The key to their car. They'll be leaving the car that they came in and I'll want to get their car towed out of my yard so the key stays with me for the tow guy.

Btw, If I can tell their car is stolen, I wouldn't let them drive mine. So please let me know how can I find that out. That would be helpful to if there is a way. Should I ask for their plate number over the phone before they arrive and check it out? Where would I find that kind of info?

Does this plan sound reasonable or is there anything else we didn't think of?

BUMMER!

Monday night was the last night my car ran, it was rainy but it ran nice, good pick up and quiet it was normal all around except it needs new rotters on the front brakes and there may be a need to replace some gaskets. The scraping noise attributed to the clutch/flywheel sticking together was gone then and didn't return.

I hadn't ran it again until just now, this afternoon. So it's been 3 days. I wanted to take it out to make sure it stays in shape.

Well the car started to do this revving up, brrrrm, brrrm, bbrrum, brrmm, like I was pressing the gas pedal, only I wasn't. And the check engine light came on. So I backed it out and pulled to the side of the garage, shut it off and then restarted it. The problem stopped and no check engine light. But the grinding sound of flywheel/clutch was there when I put it in neutral and took my food off the clutch.

Why is is still behaving as if I left it for too long. It used to always start and go even if I didn't start it for a week. I have a Haynes book for my Honda and it has a section on check engine light codes and how to read them. But would the code be gone because I shut the engine off and restarted it? I think there's instructions in the Haynes book for turning the key in the ignition to a certain point an then looking at the light (under the carpet on the drivers side I think and counting the blinks. But again, does that count leave if I had to turn the car off and restart?

So two things are showing up. The revving of the engine w/ a check engine light after a short time of it and the flywheel/clutch. Could something be sticking somewhere and needs spraying? Would an oil change be in order? It's not over due for one but it has been sitting a while before we got it up...

Paranoid? Me? Dude! Your the one who told me to check and make sure the vehicle they leave isn't stolen! Lol!

Anyway, right now I can't put my car back up on CL until it stabilizes. It started acting up again.

Ok update. I drove it to the store, about a mile and the grinding noise in neutral stopped by the time it got there, So I guess the grinding clutch will always follow it til the car warms up.

But I don't know why the check engine light came on and it had the rpms go up slightly like I'm touching the gas pedal that one time. Then it stopped when I restarted it. Main Relay faulty (used one). Empty the gas and refill in case there's a bad mix from the old stuff to the stuff I added? Would that cause the rpms to roll and get a check engine light?

KHL
I checked the code on the ECU which flashed 14 times. I checked it several times and so did Chris. There were no other codes. The Haynes book said that was the Electronic Air Control Valve (EACV) and referred me to a section.

The first thing the section said to do was to remove the Hazard fuse for 10 section to reset the ECU. Then retart the engine and see if the Check Engine light comes on again. I'm guessing it won't. As it was intermittent before. The first time the engine was surging and the light came on I shut it off and restarted and the light was gone and all was fine.

They have instructions to find the EACV and further instructions on how to check things if it comes on. But what if it doesn't come on?

Also the book says the EACV a cylindrical device that, if its a multi-point system, is mounted on the backside of the intake manifold. If it's a dual system it's located on the left driver's side of the intake manifold. I think I found it and if so its on the left side drivers side. But to be sure, do you know if my 1990 Honda Civic HB DX a multi-point system or a dual point system? How do I find this out, I mean what type system is that?

Monday I planned on driving this vehicle to a mechanic to check the gaskets and see which ones need replacing. Should I turn the code off and then tell them about this and where I am with it? Or should I leave the codes on and see what they can find out? I'll leave them the Haynes book. The instructions are there.

Lynne

It's the older version that's probably all alluminum. The video, though hte car isn't my car (93 has quite a few changes too), the name idle control valve tells me more than electronic control valve. If it controls the idle that explains the surging engine. But cleaning it I wouldn't want to try as its an air control valve that's Electronically controlled (EAVC). If the wires are clear or there's no loose connection, should it be replaced instead? Or would a cleaning be okay even though it's an electronic device?

A mechanic is going over the work my neighbor did. I noticed there seem to be some leakage, but it may not be his work. It may be the radiator itself, warrantied or not, has leaks. But then it may pass the tests. I also am having him check the oil leakages and guesstimate which gaskets are bad. Not being a mechanic I'm hazarding a guess that he won't really know without going into the engine and that's not gonna happen with my budget.

He's going to let me know if the Transmission fluids and other fluids need replacing. I can do that. Don't know if this person will be able to check the EACV. I gave him the Haynes book with post-it notes for markers telling how to do it with a meter. I don't think he'd get that much from most of his customers for an old car like this.

Gotta say, the engine itself runs with a lot of kick. It easily gets up to highway speeds. I don't think compression is an issue with it at least.

I'll let you know if it passes the radiator pressure test or not. I may be bringing the 30-day warranty radiator back for a refund and get a new one. They're not that much for this type Honda. I might swing that. I mean the car has to drive, bottom line. Or my expenses won't be cover in the sale.

Well, surprise surprise! He said the only leak for radiator fluid is tiny drops from the house wehre after a short time of warming up the clamps required tightening. Problem solved. Radiator fluid was full. It passed the pressure test with flying colors.

Trans fluid full and clean looking. No prob there.

Gaskets... He noted some minor oil leaks and said there was little evidence that any of the gaskets needed to be replaced. A car that age is bound to have some leakage but he recommended I not bother with replacing any of the gaskets at this stage. Oil on engine is not enough to warrant concern.

Front brake rotor is in need of replacing, but brake pads are brand new. Now he said he wouldn't bother with a rotor, let the seller take care of it. But I wonder if new pads on a warped roter is not a good idea. Won't that wear the pads? I found on car-part. Com
"brake rotor/drum front" (that's how it's phrased) in A condition for a 91 Honda Civic in stock at a yard near me for $20. It may be better then what I have on there now and might make it safer. A waste of money or worth a shot for the sale?

He didn't check the EACV, said the problem had to be showing in order for him to check it. Makes no sense to me. If you go around the EACV and check the wires and voltage and ect and so forth, wouldn't it show a problem if there was one even if the actual symptoms are not active? But then again, it is intermittent, so I guess I do see the logic. If it's not acting up, its not going to show the problem. Anyway, the codes still in the ECU. I can pull the hazard fuse and let it disappear or leave it for the next buyer. I think I'll leave it and give him/her the book.

He basically said for a car that old it's a pretty good runner and has a lot of live still left in it. Not bad for 328,000 miles. Those Hondas are something else.

I'm thinking of selling it for 1800 obo. The interior is in good shape with normal wear on the driver's side seat. The other seats, cargo cover and the rest of the interior is clean and in great shape. But there is some rust in the back by the bumper and in the rearl. And it's high in miles. Still, there's front warped rotors (one on the right at least for sure, not sure about the driver's side), a misbehaving EACV and I forgot, the horn doesn't work. That's pretty much it.

It cost me $35 for the check up and he wrote his comments on the receipt for any potential buyer to see.

Comments are welcome, of course... IF they are relevant to the subject... Of course... Medic, that means you... : |

KHL: I didn't notice you delaying a response so no apology necessary. I mean I got your message just now about not bothering with the rotors. I just got home. Thanks for the good advise. I'll add the hydraulic trunk lid shocks. Mine are shot and they've hit me and one kid who came to see the car on the head. Don't want a law suit. Those go for $!5 plus putting them on, which takes about 20 minutes. It's a bargain. Why didn't I do it sooner! That website is a god-send! I plan to sell it soon. And learned my lesson. I will run it almost every day and keep it in shape until it sells. It's in the garage too. I put my 2003 Toyota Matrix outside, and they'll take turns. But I'm treating my little chariot (I call it bullet too) with TLC now.

Medic: Jeez give a gal a break! I haven't been home all day. I can't respond if I'm not home, so chill out and have a beer or something. I have a life yanno. ;

I'll check your messages about the price. But the reality is I checked online and cars "as good as I say" sell for more if they have a good body to boot. Based on Googling cars for sale throughout the country that's my exact vehicle's age and looking at the ones with the highest mileage, 273, XXX was it. It was a nice looking Honda and with that many miles can fetch $2,999. But good runner or not, mine has some rust plus it's 328, XXX miles. So if I want to up my price to more than $1800 or $1900 I have to have something else to show for it other than being a good runner. Though the inside is good and most of the body is good, the high mileage and the rust in certain places is a minus. So I'm guessing I'm doing the right price. Btw, other Hondas my car's age (1990) with mileage in the 170K range go for $3,999 and if the mileage is lower, it fetches more.

Just trying to be realistic like any good "jew" would. Btw Medic, are you in those pictures? Are you driving? Which one are you?

To both of you: and Razmataz too, if he's even paying attention to this conversation anymore.
Attached is a totally restored 1991 Honda Civic Si. I bet this one fetches ALOT. It's a beauty! Only difference between it and mine in looks is the color is brighter, mine is burgundy red, a much darker tone. I have a bra with mine but I don't use it on the car. I sure wish I could afford to fix my Honda up like that. Have the engine rebuilt with new parts (brings its mileage down) and restore the body. This one I think has a sun roof. VAROOOM! What a hot little number that car is! At least to me. ANd 45 mpg to boot. (Sigh). I love these cars. They last forever too if taken care of.

The photo looks cholpped but if you click on it it will open to full size.

Lynne

PSS Why might a fella who buys and sells Jeeps be considered rude? Because his business is flippin' jeeps.
Just a little humor... Yeah, very little.