I need help getting my car running after fuse box, lights and other parts stolen

Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Once the belt is loose, you can manually turn the alternator pulley to see if it can turn. If the belt is slightly tight you might feel resiatance and the best way to tes is to remove the belt.

Since engine is able to rumble, it might start. Try feathering the throttle slightly to get the engine rpm to increase, which might hold and not stall. Note the charge indicator. If the light goes off, it would mean the alternator is definitely turning and providing charge.

If the alternator is not seized, you would be able to turn the engine with the belt and alternator pulley turning together. If the alternaotr is still stuck, the belt might turn but the pulley it not going to turn.
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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 6:29 PM
Tiny
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"Try feathering the throttle slightly to get the engine rpm to increase."

How do I do that? Do you mean press the gas pedal slightly or is there something I need to do in the engine itself? Do I take the cover off the carburetor and do something there?

I'm going to get a 10mm ratchet socket for my ratchet. I only have inch sockets but my half inch will fit in there. So if I get the 10mm I'm betting it would be easier as the bolt looks pretty rusted.

Thx
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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
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That is not a 10 mm, is a 12 mm heax head. 1/2 inch = 13 mm which would be a loose fit and you might damage the bolt head. 7/16 should be the correct inches size.

Yes, press the gas pedal.

Your engine don't have a carburettor. It is fuel injected and you have the throttle body and air hose. Just to get you to understand just in case we need to come to it later on.
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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 7:40 PM
Tiny
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Yes I know it's fuel injected. And I told that to someone checking the car and wanting to get it started. But he told me I still had a carburetor and he pulled the cover off something like a carburator cover and there was a hole with a screen over it. That's were he poured a little gasoline to see if he could get it to start. So I guess that confused me. What was that called that he removed the cover off of?
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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 8:00 PM
Tiny
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If it looks something like a carburettor, that could be a Throttle Body Injection (TBI) system which are mostly for 1.5L engines. Only the Civic of later years uses a throttle body type multi-injection system.

For anything that you are not sure, a picture would make it easier for us to understand.
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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 8:13 PM
Tiny
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Sorry about the 10mm, I remembered you mentioning it but I see it was for another bolt that if I might need to pull the alternator.

But the 7/16" is too small. The 1/2" is too big. So if the 7/16" should fit in place of a 12mm and it's too small, should I try a 13mm instead of the 12mm? I don't have anything in my tools that's mm so I'll have to buy it.

Thanks for your patience.
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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 8:15 PM
Tiny
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Or should I get the 12mm because its metric and may be slightly bigger than 7/16?
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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 8:17 PM
Tiny
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Yes, you need the 12 mm and 14 mm too if you are going to remove the alternator.

10 mm is for the alternator wire. Do not attempt to disconnect the alternator without first disconnecting the battery negative terminal.
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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 8:42 PM
Tiny
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Didn't matter. I got the 12mm and it fit. Didn't matter though whether I went left loose or right tight, it would not budge. I may have to cut the belt off. But right now, I spent all day on this and got ntohing done. So I have to drop it for now and get back to it tonight. Someone is coming to look at the car tomorrow morning who lives an hour away. I was hoping to get it to start. I guess I'll have someone turn the bolt who has a lot more strength then I do.

Its 4 pm my time. I'm guessing if your all out east your going home about now.

Til next time.
Thanks
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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 9:07 PM
Tiny
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Last night someone helped me who was very irritable. He hates mechanics. But I set it up for him to loosen the bolt and he was able to do it. Then he watched as I cranked. The belt went round n round but the wheel on the alternator sat still. So the engine pulley is turning it.

Now I'm supposed to be tapping on "A" right? That's a pulley and behind it is a bearing? Or is there somewhere else I'm supposed to be tapping? Anyway there's too little room between the alternator and the car wall to tap with much impact.

To add confusion to this mix another guy called me about the car and he claims the engine can start WITHOUT the alternator. He says it only recharges the battery (which is slowly draining btw). So he says there must be something else causing it to not start.

So I said what's that do you suppose?

He says, the starter's probably not engaging. It may sound like it is but its probably not working. I said tell me more about what it's function is. So he describes this part, a small pin or something that goes into the engine and helps the engine turn over.

Well, I says, the pulley on the engine is turning. Cause when I loosened the bolt, the belt turns freely, because the engine pulley is turning it. So it must be doing its job right? I guess so he says.

So I said, I better ask my experts about what you said concerning the alternator. I believe its main function is to charge the battery. So why won't the car start in spite of it?

Bad gas? I think I've got that right now and its probably from this whole mess. . Hope your evening was pleasant. TT you all tomorrow hopefully.

I've not given up yet.
Lynne
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Thursday, November 1st, 2012 AT 12:22 AM
Tiny
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IT STARTED!

Someone came to look at the car and they took the belt off, which's still in good condition. After he cranked it, it started right up! They wanted it for $300 and finally said they'd do $00 but now I have to consider whether I should replace the alternator (or free it up somehow) and have the radiator installed along with the fan. If its running I might get more for it, or use it for long trips. It would be a running vehicle with great gas mileage. I can run it now but not for long. It started making noises, I was told that was the clutch and that I should go through the gears. The engine started to smoke a little so we shut it down immediately.

I've attached photos of it because you and Razmataz (and Medic) have given me such great help. I wanted you to see what it looks like. These photos were taken when I had it in the driveway for sale. It still looks like that now since I found the same amber markers and replaced the parts.

Any advice on how often to start it, what to do when it's started (let it idle for short periods until it loosens up or..?).

Thanks so much. You've been amazingly patient with someone who knows so little.
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Thursday, November 1st, 2012 AT 3:45 PM
Tiny
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If the alternator is not working, starting the engine is going to get more and more difficult as the battery drains and it is not advisable to keep engine running for too long a period without the alternator as the alternator can get damaged but that might not be aproblem as most probably you would need to be replacing it as well.

Over here even an old motorcycle would cost more than 300.
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Thursday, November 1st, 2012 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
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I looked on craigs list for cars like mine to see what they would be like with repairs in place up in terms of price. But they were usually a couple of years newer or had gas mileage in the 180+ range. Few have as much mileage as mine. But few give as good a gas mileage. My mileage was accrued in Hwy miles as I traveled from Mn to Cal to Fl and back more than once and Florida many, many times

Shall I start it again at all? The noises the clutch made were aweful but I was told I could just shift through the gears and that would all clean out. I don't want to burn out the clutch. What would you do while waiting for the right buyer? I'm referring to keeping the car cared for and not letting the engine or other parts not get bad again.

On other deicision, I thought about a search for a mechanic who would come out to put in the radiator, alternator, or have it towed which is more cost. My garage has no provisions and such said mechanic would be difficult to find. They will no doubt need to get under it for the radiator cooling fan. So other than car lifts that are generally used for tire replacements I have nothing.

I'm considering letting others come out and take a look and seeing if I get a better offer. I could say firm on the $600 I originally asked for as well. But it has 328XXX miles on it. Good gas runner though and it was always reliable. I treated it well with good oil changes and up to date repairs as needed. That is until I let it sit outside. I still feel badly about that. Lot of stress and loss of money doing that, not to mention leaving it in a driveway where vultures could pick at it.

As my dad used to say: Live and learn then die and forget the whole damn thing.

Lynne
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Thursday, November 1st, 2012 AT 5:59 PM
Tiny
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This engine can last a life time if you have regular oil changes and don't allow it to overheat. Since you are waiting to sell it, you should start it at least every 2 or 3 days but you would have to keep charging the battery as it would get drained and without the radiator and cooling fans, a 2 to 3 minute start up is the limit, from a cold engine.
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Thursday, November 1st, 2012 AT 6:16 PM
Tiny
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Hi KHL Razmataz,
Thanks for that advice on car starting. Pepple are low balling the price at $300 $350. But when the guy who offered $400 found out I wanted to tt other buyers he raised it $25 and pressured me to let him get it over the weekend. No dice. I'm rethinking the whole thing and here's why. This car went from having been told the compression is too bad in two cylinders to ever start (the tow guy tooked at it in his shop and pronounced it a salvage car), to thinking it could start if I get a fuel pump, (a step up), theft, (step down) to learning what's wrong and getting it to start.

I thought about fixing the problems but wanted to see what the car could be priced at if I did and checked out CL. One guy I contacted because he had no price and it was close to mine. Or so I thought. He sold a Honda hathchback BODY for $500. No motor. That woke me up a little.

I told him my story. He said he might be interested in my car but added "from one seller to another, I'd say have someone or yourself fix those problems and resell it for about $1500." He went further to explain that from his experience even though my car has 328K miles on it, people buy hatchbacks of from around those years (88-93) and keep them running because of the gas mileage and reliability. He told me a website I can use to find a lot of salvage places and parts stores with rebuilt alternators. Get the parts he suggested and get it fixed.

Then when I told him getting my car towed to a mechanic was costly, and out here the lowest they charge is $60 an hour ($100 and over in the city). He said that was too much and offered to come out to do the work for gas money and a donation when I got the parts. He said he and a friend would come on a Saturday and can get it done in my driveway in a day. Then said he had friends in the city he could stay at if it took longer. Now I gotta say, he did say he'd been working on, buying and selling Hondas for a while.

Well it turns out he lives 2.5 hours from me. He was still willing to do it. I told him there was another mechanic living nearer who offered to help. He was fine with it either way but said I should definitely fix it and get it back out on CL at a better price.

But when I told Chris, he was very much against the whole thing because they're strangers. He was unsure why they would want to come all this way just to fix my car for gas and a donation, and then what? Drive back? I pointed out all of buyers I've met have been two guys. One mechanic and one who knows body repair. And he said he was interested the car so that would be the motivation. It didn't seem sinister to me.

I had offered Josh the job with pay before Dor (that's this other mechanic's name) called me. Josh helped me put in fuses and he contacted me the same day and said he'd be willing to do it.

Pluses regarding Josh are I've met him and he seems like he just wants to help. His dad already got another car.
Minuses are he's not worked on Hondas before and when he helped me with the fuses he was interrupted by his family's responsibilities. Also he and his wife share the cell phone on certain days, so he's hard to reach when she's got it. That's fine if he offered to help with a small project for free but I plan to pay him for this job. I can see it taking days because of his life style. I'd need to be assured he'd get it done in a day as well and I don't think he can do that.

So I chose to use Dor (new guy's name) because he has Honda repairing knowledge.(Chris would say "Or so he says"). He says he can do it quickly. And I plan to get his information. Though Chris wants me to get it when they arrive as they can make stuff up on the phone. Because they're from so far away he's very uncomfortable about it.

I know there's a Honda culture out there so it's not so strange to me that they travel far for a car they might want. But I also understand and have some caution myself. After all, we would have never guessed someone would steal parts from my car out here in rural la-la land. Though we're really city folk, that experience made my trust level go down a little more. Still, what mechanic or buyer do we ever know when we first do business with them. And these two plan to come in broad daylight.

Questions for you all:
How long should it take to install a radiator with hoses and an alternator?
Should I try to find out more about Dor's experience (his friend is coming "just for the ride"). I could ask where he works. I don't want to offend him but it might be a good idea.

Comments on any of this, of course, is welcomed.

Lynne
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Friday, November 2nd, 2012 AT 3:00 PM
Tiny
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You don't need to be a rocket scientist to perfomr the jobs listed. It is a plug and play type of job whereby any fitter should be able to do the job. 2 hours would be way out of the time limit for a mechanic.
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Friday, November 2nd, 2012 AT 3:23 PM
Tiny
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That's if I get all the parts it's two hours. And if he has all his tools since he's coming to my home. Delays are always the devil that's in the details.

I got the rad/cooling fan and the alternator. No prob. All work and all at good prices, 30-day warranty on the radiator so we can test it out when it runs. But they cut the wire with the female plug that goes tothe plug on the cooling fan. Also he's going to have to wire my side bumper markers back up on the passenger side. They cut wires on those too.

I know where I can get the plug and wire. There's a Honda Civic 91 dx hatch with the radiator still intact. I didn't buy that one because it cost $75 with the core charge and taxes. Core charge. Even though I don't have one to give because it stolen I have to pay it anyway. So I found one for only $54 (tax included) with no core charge and a 30-day warranty. Parts so far under $100. It's coming together. : )

So I'm going to have Josh come over tonight and look at the space and tell me anything else he can see that I'll need. From hoses to bolts, I'm getting a list together. Maybe I can do the radiator myself. I think it should be pretty simple. The alternator I want to leave for someone else to pull out and replace. I'd rather not struggle with rusty bolts and tight spaces.

Those two things and the wiring of the lights, oh and the dash fuse cover which I'll pick up tomorrow, should do it. Then it goes back online with a new price and a new update.

Shall I keep you posted? I mean if I sell it do you want to hear the end of the story and know what it went for?

Thanks so much to all of you. You were a part of the outcome guys, I really appreciate your support and advise!

Lynne (one of many damsels you've probably saved from her distress!)
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Friday, November 2nd, 2012 AT 10:43 PM
Tiny
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Splicing the wires for the lights should not be a problem. The Black colored wire is for ground circuit and the Green/Yellow ( if I am not mistaken) is the power source from the turn signal relay.

You can keep us posted but no obligations.

Have a great weekend.
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Saturday, November 3rd, 2012 AT 12:11 PM
Tiny
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QUESTIONS FOR SAFETY:

How could I have forgotten this! Two things happened when the car started. When this car is intact people will be wanting to test drive itand I don't want to damage the car or the person driving it.

No 1 In a short amount of time the engine smoked and we had to shut the car off. One of the guys said it was because it sat so long that running the car was putting too much oil. He said over time that would burn off or clear up. I'm paraphrasing and its probably inaccurate what I think he said.

No. 2, The guy who started the car took it through the gears and there was no noise, but there was when he put it in neutral. He said that was a temporary issue from sitting as well. But I can remember what he said. I think it had something to do with a clutch bearing or gear grinding when going into neutral or something? He said it would go away.

What could these two symptoms be and how can it be resolved?

Is there a way to gently ease this car back into use or do I need to do some more major engine/clutch work?

These symptoms were NOT there when the car was running in February.

Thanks.
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Saturday, November 3rd, 2012 AT 12:37 PM
Tiny
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Don't worry about anything further. Once you get the car running, go for a short drive and hope whatever are not supposed to be there goes away after the drive.
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Saturday, November 3rd, 2012 AT 1:47 PM

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