I need help getting my car running after fuse box, lights and other parts stolen

Hello! Thanks for your patience and sorry for the delay. I've not been home all day.I've been to salvage yards and such.

Razmataz, thanks for the info on the ECU. On page one of this dialogue, I reported that I found the ECU and it seemed intact. Since then, I and a friend added fuses to the engine's fuse box (the thieves clean those out). I put in only fuses for the ignition, ECU and battery and turned the key. The instrument panel lights came on (except for Brake and trunk lights but I didn't install those fuses....). But when I turned the key all the way to the right nothing. Like a dead starter would sound like. Only I'm sure my starter isn't dead.

My friend said the battery was real low and that plus the alternator being "froze up" would maybe cause that. But I wanted to search for a starter relay, to fill that four prong hanging plug. It seems that might be the real problem.

Here's where KHLow2008 responded about starter relays..(Don't know your name so I'll shorten your email name to KHL), KHL... Tell me more about how common and interchangable the starter relays are because that's not the impression I got from the Honda parts department in their Dealerships I've tt. They said there's only a starter relay for a Honda Civic DX hatchback IF its a manual tranny (mine is, its a 5 spd). Then they gave me a part number, and the price is in the $50s! Then I found out that part number apparently goes to a relay assembly for a Prelude and not for my little ol' starter relay. The Honda dealerships I've tt have been no help. Wish I had a Honda 1-800 number for Honda owners. Toyota has one. Do either of you know a number I can call?

Parts stores around here do not carry a starter relay for my 1990 Honda. Check those out already. And the salvage yard is only hopeful if I know what it looks like hooked up to the fuse box where it apparently gets clipped to hang it out of the way. This one has me stumped.

But here's another potential thing...I can't remember whether I depressed the clutch or not when I tried to start it Saturday, . And that would make a HUGE difference in cranking it. My Honda won't start, give a big nothing sound if its in neutral and I try to start it. It has to be in gear and the clutch depressed. I think it's a safety issue.

I've had the battery recharged and put it in the car (no worries. Positive is where it belongs and it's cables are torqued tight). Tomorrow I will try to start the car again to see if it just cranks with the clutch down. BUT if it doesn't crank I am convinced I need that starter relay. Something goes in that plug and I have learned a starter relay goes "pert-near" in that area.

So today I've been a busy gal.
Besides getting the Battery taken care of, I went to a salvage yard and found two corner markers for the front as well as a radiator cooling assemply (fan and motor). When I installed the markers though I discovered the passenger side marker's wires were cut when they took it. So that side is only installed for cosmetics now. But at the yard I got everything, including the bulbs the whole enchilada for both. So maybe someone will wire that up for the buyer (or me) down the road.

The cooling fan assembly is IFFY regarding if its a match. The salvaged car was a 1991 Honda Civic hatchback 4 spd (mine's a 5 spd). I don't know if the radiator fans are the same for my model. There's two of them, one with a fan motor. This is fun ain't it? Can't wait to get back to my other neglected challenges in life. Restoring a car you care about can be obsessive and frustrating if you don't know much about mechanics. But I'm learning as I go. Just asking a lot of questions.

I'll be around tomorrow, then Wednesday I won't be around til after 5 pm. Hope to hear back tomorrow. Thanks for being there for me.

Lynne

Hi KHL- (with short note at bottom for MEDEVAC (aka CJM)
I don't have cruise control.
I tested the clutch depression and no matter what, lights come on the panel but nothing else happens.

So I need to clarify, if that connector is for a relay to the starter are you saying I can buy any plug that fits a four prong connector and it will do the job? In other words are you saying that its a matter of simply closing that connector? Then when they say my Honda has a starter relay if I have a manual tranny, they mean are saying the Honda has a wire that goes to the selonoid that when the 4 prong connector is open it won't function. So if I put any relay plug in it, it will close and start? I sure hope that's what you're saying. It'd make my life a lot easier.

I need a generic relay plug right? Is the language right? When I call the parts store, what to I ask for. I now think my problem is my language isn't clear. I ask for a starter relay and they problem are looking for something else for my honda that isn't ever going to be listed. How would you ask for it? Please tell me.

Btw, when I turn my key it even feels different. You know how there's a slight resistance to the key just before you turn over the engine? That's not there anymore. The panel lights all come on and the fuel pump makes a noise in position II but when I go to III it has no resistance and its dead silent.

I'll be at the salvage yard and I plan to look under the dash at the fuse box to see if there's anything there that looks like a relay on a connector I might need.

CJM: thanks for the mirror idea, totally forgot about that one and that's one I should have thought of: I'm bringing a mirror wiht me. As to the timing belt examples, photos and ect, please try to address the problems at hand. I'm not dealing with timing belt adjustments and thankfully won't need to. That's one thing I know is not the problem. The car won't even turn over.

Thanks again. Will keep you posted.

Oh well, I tried. I and someone who works at the salvage yard was at the 1991 Honda civic 4 sp I got parts from yesterday. I told him I needed a 4-pin relay from the fuse box. The only one he found was a large square one. An MITSUBA 12v 4PIN Relay RC-2203. Photo below. It's a four pin but when I checked on line they're being sold on Ebay as a Honda Acura fuel pump relay. What it's doing in this 91 Honda Civic 4 sp I have no guess. But it looks too big for the4-pin wire connector I have hanging I think.

Should I ask for a 4-pronged relay such as an ignition switch relay for Japanese vehickes since the issue might be an ignition one? Or are they all essentially the same?

Will I hurt anything by putting the wrong relay in that 4 prong? I mean, if it fits, does it really ship, if you know what I mean? I just don't know what this thing looks like. So frustrating.

Picture below of what was pulled for me.

Lynne

Razmataz & KHL,
Re: light feel of key. Would that indicate an ignition problem (potentially) even if when I turn the key it does turn the instrumental lights on?

I'll call and ask the parts store for a 4 prong relay like you suggested KHL.

Thanks.
Lynne

Well, I went back to another yard because someone there recommended I look at the relays on their accords. He pulled one and then went to his 1990 Honda Civic (same guy who came to the parts store on Sunday that I met.) He took the starter relay out of his car, put the accord one in. It started. Took it out and turned the key and said "Is this what its doing now?" And the lights came on but no noise. He said I believe this is the culprit you're looking for".

I took it home put it in and it cranked! Guess what, turned out to be the same fuse I was suspicious of. This place charged me $10 for it! The other one gave it to me! So I got wonked again!

Anyway, I'm back to my orignal problem of why will it crank but not turn over. But now I know its not the fuel pump (I heard it when the main relay was installed). The alternator won't turn the belt. So I think that's the problem. It's from sitting outside last winter.

Josh (someone who was interested in the car for his dad) is coming over to "tap" on the alternator and try to free up the motor on it so it turns with WD 40. He's also going to take the spark plugs out and put a little oil in to lubricate the pistons. Don't know if what he wants to do will help or not.

Any other suggestions? The tapping on the alternator, has that ever worked? Another step closer. This nightmare is almost over.

Thanks

Is WD 40 adequate for lubricating? What is best to use. Josh is coming over tonight to spray and tap and I'm gong to watch. We're going to try it once, the nlet it set til Friday because I've no choice (I have another life and things must be attended to). So I wanted to be sure we use a good lubricant and WD40 tends to get used for things that something else might work better.

He's gonna tap the screws lightly to the sprocket I think he said. I'm gong to watch and learn and let me know if I can do more or improve it if I need to do it myself. He's got his own life too.

Thianks

Note for KHL and Razamatz below it. KHL PERFECT. The alternator squeals like a pig and I remembered it did that when I had it out for sale and I tried it. The belt even smelled a little but whoever was watching it at the time couldn't see anything turning.

The guy who was going to help me is no longer available now (left town with family). So I called a mechanic who travels but he doesn't come out to my town. I told him about the alternator and here's what he said (paraphrased) Cut the belt, it's probably bad anyway. That's a strain on the alternator. Then tap where the bearings are, lightly, and spray it with WD 40. Don't tap on the screws because those are part of what's housing the alternator and I don't want to loosen those. Only tap on the bearings. (I hope I tap on the right spot on those bearings).

But it won't be able to recharge without the belt on and I'm concerned when people see my car that they are calculating how much trouble it will be to get on the road. If it turns over after I cut the belt, is it hard for mechanics to put a new belt on? It's pretty exposed and easy to get to from what I can tell.

Or should I try tapping and spraying first with the belt on first so that if it works, someone who buys it will be able to at least drive it to somewhere to get another belt before the battery drains?

RAZMATAZ: Have mercy. I fell into this by circumstance. I don't have the time, tools, or knowledge to take apart an alternator and examine it. Besides I know enough to be dangerous, Trust me, you don't want me to take my alternator apart. Right now, I'm obsessed with just getting it to turn over. I'm so close. At least I know what needs to be done.

With much gratitude!

Questions before starting:
Penetro 90 or WD40. Which is better. I have Penetro 90 and will need to by the WD 40 which is okay, it will be used I'm sure.

Attached is a drawing of a Honda Alternator found on the internet. I put a RED arrow where I think I should tap and spray and added a question on the image. Is it correct and if there is more than one bearing is there another place I should also tap?

Do I spray only where "A" is or is there a bearing in the back of the alternator?

Heating: It's getting in the 30s here and will go up by the afternoon, but we've been hitting freezing nights. How does that affact how the alternator might respond to WD40 and to tapping? Should I put a heater in near the drivers side (where the alternator is) and warm it up some? Would that help?

If I'm lucky enough to start it turning, I plan to not rev up the engine, but let it idle for a short time before cutting it off, being careful not to let it over heat. But someone said that it would only over heat if it's being driven. Comments on that or warnings about that regarding the water situation and lack thereof?

If it turns over, should I come out each day and start her or can I assume once it's been moving it will be okay enough to only start it once every few days or so?

Thx

Opps forgot the image. Here it is.

KHL you first wrote: Take the belting off and test if you can crank it up. Something confirmed by another mechanic.

Now you discourage it and say it's not too difficult to take the alternator out.

Please clarify:
The reason you have changed your mind about cutting the belt off and tapping. Did someone else weigh in on this and said it was not a good idea?

The reason you mention the alternator is easy to remove? Are you suggesting that the alternator is easy to take out in response to my question about the belt being easy to replace replaced? Or are you suggesting I do it?

Thx

OMG! So close! I sprayed the front, back and whatever I could reach. Then after letting it sit for a few minutes I tried to tap "A" which is closest to me with a small rock chisel, it's heavy, small enough to fit downthere and the wedge of it is easier to tap with then a hammer which won't go in that area very well. I don't have a car lift, and a Honda Civic is pretty low. CLimbing under to tap on it is difficult even though I'm a small person.

But I got in and turned the key. It cranked and then rumbled and shook like it was going to start for the first time in months! But it didn't hold.

That's with no belt removed. My problem is I can't tell if the belt is not turning and that's why it didn't start or if its turning which would indicate other steps are needed.

This car has sat without starting for nearly 8 months. It is warmer now then an hour ago. We're in the 40s here. I wonder too if removing the spark plugs and adding a little oil will help with the pistons. Everything has been sitting. I was told the compression in a couple of cylinders was low but I was also told once it started and ran for a while the heat would help reseal the pistons. I've been told so many things. Who knows?

I'm hesitant to do anything with the alternator, like remove the belt or anything without having another pair of eyes who can say what it's doing. It's a problem I'll have to work on. So close!

I'll try it again in a few minutes.

PS I like the idea of loosening the belt. I can always re-tighten it. I want to see if I can get anyone to come and watch it for me. Then if it doesn't go I'll try to loosen it.

Here's a question. IF the bearing released, wouldn't I be able to turn the alternator belt? Wouldn't the "wheel" that the bearing controls be loose? If so, the bearing still is locked. I may have to loosen the belt. I already tried to pull on it to see if it loosened. I'll tap it some more and try once more, then I'll losse the belt.