I have a 1985 CJ7 6cyl 258 ci. That goes through ingnition modules like they are cookies.

Tiny
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Retest:
I removed the dist cap, and put the meter on the pin and the screw on the dist body (per pic), reading was 0.06 - 0.02. Not 1.0 this time, my bad. I removed and sanded the two surfaces and retightened, retested - 0.1.
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Tuesday, June 5th, 2012 AT 2:24 PM
Tiny
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SEND PIC OF YOUR VOLTMETER???

I'M NO ELECTRICIAN EITHER--JUST A LITTLE MORE ADVANCED DIYer THAN YOU!

LOOK AT MY 2ND PIC ABOVE, SET ON "K"...RATHER "200O K" ---ANY "K" SETTING WILL SHOW CONTINUITY ON MINE. HOWEVER DUE TO "RESISTANCE" THE CONTINUITY (COMPLETE CIRCUIT) WILL SHOW AN "OHMS VALUE" DEPENDING ON THE SETTING YOU CHOOSE

EXAMPLE--TEST A ONE INCH PIECE OF 14 GAUGE STRANDED COPPER WIRE, THEN TEST ONE SIDE OF A 100 FOOT 14 GAUGE EXTENSION CORD!

I'LL LET YOU INVESTIGATE THIS ONE! GO TO YOU TUBE, SEARCH "HOW TO" USE A VOLTMETER/ TEST RESISTANCE/ TEST CONTINUITY......I'M SORTA KNOWN FOR "I'LL HELP YOU, HELP YOURSELF"......I FIND THAT YOU PICK THINGS UP FASTER IF IT'S NOT JUST HANDED TO YOU!

LOOK AT MY "STAR PLAYER", HE'S BEEN HANGING WITH ME SINCE 2 DEC 11. HE'S 18 YRS OLD, WORKS IN FOOD SERVICE AT A HOSPITAL

I DID NOT REALIZE HE LACKED THE BASIC UNDERSTANDINGS OF AN ENGINE,UNTIL LAST NIGHT, HE'S BEEN DOING AND TESTING EVERYTHING I THREW ON HIM.....AND DOING AN EXCELLENT JOB OF IT!!! (SEE THE RESPONSE I SENT HIM LAST, AFTER SEVERAL HOURS OF PHONE CLASSROOM)

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1982-jeep-cj7-ignition-problem-spark-distributor-cap

IF YOU WANT TO, PAT HIM ON THE BACK, AT HIS POST......US JEEP GUYS HAVE GOTTA STICK TOGETHER!!!

AFTER YOUR LAST PROCEDURE,

WITH A SQUIRT OF FUEL DOWN THE CARB,

WHAT EXACTLY HAPPENS, WHEN YOU CRANK IT OVER???

I'LL HANG WITH YOU ALSO, AS LONG AS IT TAKES!

WE MAY BE SOON DOIN' THE PHONE COMMO ALSO

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, June 5th, 2012 AT 4:41 PM
Tiny
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After checking to be sure everything was connected, I gave it a squirt of started fluid. After cranking it over several times - nothing, not even a hint of fireing!
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Wednesday, June 6th, 2012 AT 5:48 PM
Tiny
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1) DID YOU GET YOUR MODULE TESTED 5-8 TIMES IN A ROW AT AUTOZONE OR ADVANCE AUTO. O'REILLY'S MAY HAVE ONE TOO?

2) IS ALL OF YOUR WIRING SPLICED BACK TO ORIGINALLY BEFORE YOU WENT WILD WITH THE SNIPS? DISTRIBUTOR AND MODULE?

3) HAVE YOU DISTURBED THE DISTRIBUTOR---TURN OR REMOVE IT?

4) FORGET THE VALUE ON MY VOLTMETER IN THE PIC. WHAT DOES YOURS READ WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH "ON"?

5) COLOR OF PLASTIC ON MODULE? LIKE MY 7/16 NON-ROTARY DRILL?(PIC IS OF WHAT I KEEP IN MY CONSOLE.I GOTTA A LOT MORE TOOLS AND CRAP STASHED ELSEWHERE, IN MY LITTLE CJ 5!)

LET'S GET YOU ON THE ROAD. YOUR HOOD SHOULD ONLY BE RAISED TO "SHOW OFF" YOUR AWESOME POWER PLANT. NOT FOR WHAT'S GOING ON NOW!

THE MEDIC
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Wednesday, June 6th, 2012 AT 11:33 PM
Tiny
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I will assume that question 1 -3 are from another post, since we have do these already.

#4. With the ign. Key in "on" position:
and with meter red lead on pos. Coil terminal meter reads 1.44 VDC, and with blk lead on neg. Battery terminal, meter reads 11.94 VDC.
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Thursday, June 7th, 2012 AT 10:10 PM
Tiny
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SURE?

NOT THE REVERSE OF WHAT YOU SAID?

HARD TO IMAGINE THIS----IN MY PIC ABOVE, THE POS LEAD OF MR. VOLTMETER IS STUCK IN THE LEFT SIDE OF THE CONNECTOR CAP (AS VIEWED FROM THE PASSENGER TIRE) IS IT POSSIBLE THAT YOU HAVE THE COIL IN BACKWARDS (THE CAP SHOULD "CLIP" ONTO IT)

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, June 7th, 2012 AT 10:48 PM
Tiny
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ALRIGHTY THEN!

I NO KNOW FROM OUR CONVERSATION THAT YOUR WIRING MAY NOT BE BACK TO ORIGINAL, FROM PREVIOUS MODIFICATIONS.

HERE'S A DIAGRAM

"BUTT SPLICE" THIS BACK LIKE IT SHOULD BE---NO TWISTING AND TAPING!

KEEP ME POSTED

THE MEDIC
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Friday, June 8th, 2012 AT 4:42 AM
Tiny
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Photo 1. FYI. On my ing. Module there are only three wires out of the connector blk, org, grn, not 4 per your diagram.
Photo 2. These were the two wires cut ( my buddy added a butt splice when he cut them just in case I needed to reconnect them).
Photo 3. Wires going to the dist. Blk, org, purple. There are two blk wires leading from the single blk wire at the connector. One of these blks goes to grd. On the firewall, the other to the ign module (i assume, I could not follow it throught the harness). The orange wire from the connector goes to the orange wire butt splice, and to the ign module. The purple from the connector goes to the pink wire butt splice and to the ign module. Per the carb. Install instructions. Looks like this was done to bypasses the MCU, what do you think?
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Friday, June 8th, 2012 AT 4:44 PM
Tiny
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Heres a pic of the tricked diagram. This is the best I could get with my camera, and Kodak enhance. Originally the orange and purple wires from the dist. Went into the harness and through the firewall. Now they go to the Ign. Mod. Orange to orange and purple to "added pink wire" spliced to the purple wire at the Ign mod.
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Friday, June 8th, 2012 AT 5:55 PM
Tiny
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DO YOU THINK YOU COULD SCAN THAT AND SEND IT TO ME ON MY EMAIL?

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, June 9th, 2012 AT 12:36 AM
Tiny
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Latest testings:
All wires from the ign. Module were tested from the unit to the dist. And coil. All showed continuity.
I have replaced the negative battery cable, as it was a little bit messed up at the motor mount, just for peace of mind.
In attempting to crank it, it now seems to be getting a consistant single "spark" when key is released to the start position. I still can not get it to do any more than that.
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Tuesday, June 12th, 2012 AT 5:25 PM
Tiny
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NEW TEST

IF IT FIRES UP, REMOVING THE JUMPER OFF OF THE BATTERY WILL KILL IT

GO FOR IT!

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, June 12th, 2012 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
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I "ASSUME" TOO MUCH!

I ASSUME EZ THINGS GET CHECKED, RIGHT OFF THE BAT

I SHOULDA HIT YOU WITH THIS EARLIER

REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP. LEAVE IT OFF, AND OUT OF THE WAY.

BEING "STERN", BUT NOT TOO FORCEFUL (DON'T BREAK THE ROTOR BUTTON!) SEE IF IT WILL TURN WITH YOUR FINGERS. BUTTON ALONE OR BUTTON AND SHAFT TOO. IF IT DOES THE BUTTON MAY BE BROKE, IF THE SHAFT TURNS ALSO, THE GEAR ON THE BOTTOM OF THE SHAFT MAY HAVE SHEARED THE ROLL PIN WHICH HOLDS IT IN PLACE

IF THAT PASSED THE TEST, TRY CRANKING THE ENGINE, SEE IF THE ROTOR BUTTON TURNS. IF IT DOES NOT TURN, THE TIMING CHAIN/ CAMSHAFT/ DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT, COULD BE BROKEN

IF THERE IS A PROBLEM---LET ME KNOW THE DEAL, I WILL EXPLAIN HOW TO TACKLE THE ISSUE THE BEST WAY I KNOW OF, BEFORE YOU START SNATCHING STUFF LOOSE!

THE MEDIC
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Wednesday, June 13th, 2012 AT 12:43 AM
Tiny
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UPDATE?

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, July 8th, 2012 AT 2:02 AM

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