Why is my engine not running can you help me?

Welcome to 2CarPros.

If the engine is timed correctly, you have spark and fuel and compression, it has no choice to but to run. Do me a favor. See if it will fire if you use starting fluid. If it does run for a couple seconds and stalls, we know it's a fuel related issue. The injectors may not be getting a pulse. If it still doesn't and you are certain it is getting spark, check compression. Compression will prevent it from running. Also, by checking we can confirm it is within spec as well as if timing is wrong.

Here are a couple links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

If you could, record it when you are cranking the engine so I can hear it. I will be able to tell a lot from how it sounds.

I will watch for your reply.

Take care,
Joe

Welcome back:

You mentioned in the first post there was spark and fuel. Please confirm.

Joe

Welcome back:

I listened to the video and it's is firing and trying to start. Do me a favor, reconfirm there are no major vacuum leaks. Also, hold the throttle to the floor to see if that makes a difference (it will shut down the fuel to the engine in case it's flooding). Last, pull an O2 sensor (pre cat) out to see if something is blocking the exhaust.

Welcome back:

Is it backfiring through the exhaust or intake? Have you confirmed fuel pressure? If not, pull the fuel pump fuse and see if it starts for a couple seconds.

Here is a link that explains backfire issues. Interestingly, when you full throttle an injected vehicle, it shuts fuel off or limits it to the injectors. Have you pulled plugs to see if they are wet?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-backfires-while-running

Let me know.

If it's firing through the intake like that, either you have a stuck intake valve or timing is wrong. Something isn't adding up.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Welcome back:

If you remove the valve cover and crank the engine, you should be able to see if there is a valve sticking or any issues.

If you see no issues there, you need to recheck the timing. Do you have all the directions for replacing the belt?

Here are directions for checking engine / valve timing. The attached pictures correlate with the directions.
______________________________

2003 Dodge Neon L4-2.0L VIN C
Valve Timing - Verification
Vehicle Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Timing Components Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics Valve Timing - Verification
VALVE TIMING - VERIFICATION
VALVE TIMING VERIFICATION
1. Remove number one spark plug.
2. Using a dial indicator, set number one cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke.

Pic 1

3. Remove the access plug from the front timing belt cover (Fig. 161).

Pic 2

4. Check the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket. Mark should align with the arrow on the timing belt rear cover (Fig. 157).

The last 3 pictures show timing marks.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Welcome back:

The 9° BTDC is ignition timing and not engine. That isn't out of the ordinary. The only thing that I question is timing. Now, that could be mechanical timing (the belt) or ignition. I am not concerned with the 9° because it will run perfectly fine there. But something is causing an issue. The only other thing I can think of is the cam sensor that you replaced. At the end of the cam are two locating dials for the target magnet to fit into. Are you sure it is correctly installed and in position?

See pictures 1 and 2

Joe

The first thing is to read and record the diagnostic fault codes. Do you know how to do that yourself?

Next is to determine if the automatic shutdown relay is turning on. Look for the wire that is the same color at the ignition coil pack and every injector. That is usually a dark green/orange wire. Back-probe that wire with a test light. You should see it light up for one second when you turn on the ignition switch. You may hear the hum of the fuel pump at the same time. What is important is if that light turns back on during cranking. Let me know what you find.

Good evening.

Check the wiring at the cam and crank sensors. It is common for the harness to degrade about six to eight inches behind the connectors. Peel back the sheathing and inspect the harness.

Roy

I would check the fuses in the power distribution block, which is under the hood. You would be surprised how often a simple thing is the root of the problem. I am attaching some images to help you. In my opinion, they are a little confusing. But that is what Chrysler provided.