Crank no start

Two things happened when the battery drained. First, any diagnostic fault codes were erased. If there are any defects, you may not be meeting the conditions for them to set again just from cranking the engine.

The second issue is idle speed will be too low. You may need to hold the accelerator pedal down quarter inch to get it to start and stay running. The engine computer will need to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when to be in control of idle speed. To meet the conditions for that relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.

When there are no fault codes with a crank/no-start, you will need a scanner to view live data to see what is missing. In particular, the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor will be listed with a "present" or "no", or something like that, to indicate whether their signals are showing up at the engine computer. If one signal is missing, suspect that sensor or a wiring problem to include connector terminals. If both signals are missing, the better suspect is a broken or grounded 5.0 volt feed wire or ground wire that both sensors have in common.

Do not forget to check for a jumped timing belt.

If you have spark, the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay is turning on, and the Engine Computer only does that when those sensors are working. Same for smelling fuel. What you are most likely missing then is compression or ignition timing, meaning the timing belt has jumped. Fortunately this is not listed as an interference engine, so there should not be any internal engine damage.