Will not stay started

Right off of the bat, are you wired like this? Nothing is loose and dangling out of sight?

The solenoid does not care if the starter cable is on one big post or the other as long as it is all by itself on that post.

The opposing big post will have the positive battery cable and all 12 volt accessories stacked against it.

"S" and "I" must stay as they are.

My Jeeps are wired opposite on the big posts than the factory set-up. I have my reasons for doing this. Yours are just fine if they are opposite of mine.

Okay a bit more into it.

Look at my diagram where "I" wire tees into the coil and the resistance wire tees into it too.

If there is a break in the resistance wire, or something down that wires feed came loose.

Fuses/ wires/ bad ignition switch/ etc.

All of this would also depend on what kind of over the years wiring mess you might have. Hopefully it looks factory!

"I" would make the engine (coil) run until you release the key, "I" would then die and the coil along with it. So really check out the resistance wire's routing.

Catch me up, we will keep going!

The Medic

Quick easy just for giggles test (for me)

Fire the beast up.

Scream out wow!

When you do! This is announcing to the neighbors that he is indeed, alive!

He wants to run, he wants to go!

You must somewhat be in control.

Please unplug the "I" terminal off of the solenoid.

Did it die?

If he's still running, turn the key to "off".

Did he die that time?

This could be an ignition switch problem, it could also be a solenoid or wiring problem. Bear with me! Diagnosing on a computer is not real easy. Wish you were here!

A little more looking around.

The starter cable is the only wire on one of the big solenoid posts?

Follow the starter cable all the way to the starter.

Does any the wire branch off of it or connect to it at the starter?

Back to the solenoid, when loosening or tightening the stuff on the posts, did the posts unscrew any at all out of the solenoid unit?

All results?

If this didn't do it, voltage is still being fed to the positive side of the coil. Any other odd wires (not shown in my diagram) attached to the positive coil wire?

Do you have a digital voltmeter?

Just remember this is way less expensive in repairs/ tune-ups/ parts than one of these new fangled cyber rigs of today.

Can you do this, sometimes I can spot a pesky problem, this could be the closest thing to me being there!

Lay your hood against the windshield frame. Remove the breather and take me a really good, well lit left side/right side/overhead picture of the engine. Over the years things get changed, I might just catch something that needs attention in a good picture!

Maybe a few extras around the distributor, the ignition module and the solenoid (or starter relay).

Any other extra pictures/views will be appreciated!

We will continue testing until he is better.

The Medic

My pic 1

Looking for the not cutting off problem.

Can you send a few different views around the coil?

Unrelated

I noticed this in your pics.

Please read my answer concerning the correct fuel filter and fuel tank return line on : SATURDAY, MAY 18TH, 2019 AT 7:52 PM on this post

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/carter-bbd-bad-hesitation-problem

Your turn,

The Medic

So you do not have a 4.6 liter as listed in the 1st posting?

You have a 258,

These new age people are set on calling it a 4.2 liter.

This is so impersonal to the Jeep and any other vehicle of yesteryear.

When it was made, it was a 258, I use that term in talking and when I buy parts. I even correct the salesperson when they try to "you mean 4.2?"- Nope a 258!

So far things you say or what I can see in your pics is pointing towards the ignition switch as nothing seems to look wrong.

I always try to justify a "blind" parts replacement.

This time, this is the most probable problem, it's maybe 40 years old and the internals of it are probably severely worn and no longer staying in their meant positioning.

pic 1) When I made my '78 into a fully EZ reversible toggle switch and push button run and start (eliminating using the key switch) I took the old switch apart and soldered wires to it- thus using it as a connector for my modification. Never cutting and splicing the original Jeep wires.

This is the internal crap that could mess up in the pic, with the switch taken all apart.

In your case, $20 would be a real easy fix! You could even call it preventative maintenance if we are wrong!

pic 2) This just 2 of several other brands at Advance Auto Parts. I'm showing you in the pic that there are 2 different switches. One for "tilt steering" the other for a "standard column". You must use the correct one!

Your switch is on top of the steering column on the other side of the dash. Getting to yours will require a little of being a contortionist.

I'm showing you this Ford truck just so you will understand how it works, not a way to remove yours! Notice the rod that actually makes the switch move and where it goes. It will be difficult to see and do on the Jeep! See FRIDAY, JULY 1ST, 2011 AT 6:39 AM in this post.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1989-ford-bronco-ignition-issues

pic 3) My '77 CJ-5 Knelt down on the ground/ Driver's side/ this is the driver's side of the column/ a 5/16 wrench/ 2 screws.

I'd start with the key being off, carefully remove the switch, do not let it slip up or down the column, we want the "position" of the switch to remain in the "off" position.

Once removed, look at the "rod hole", put the new switch's "rod hole" in the same position as the old one. Reinstall the switch, put the rod in correctly, install the connectors.

There are 2 separate wire connections to this one switch (pic 4) Black and a white. See the detents you have to push in on the sides to release the connectors.

I discussed my push button up above

It's a little complicated.

Just so you can know and grasp it

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/question-for-cj-medevac

For now,

Keep it simple, put it back OEM, save modifications for when you have a healthy Jeep!

Keep me posted or any questions.

The Medic

Is "I" hooked back on at the solenoid?

I might even dump 2 teaspoons of gas down the carburetors throat and give it a shot before doing what I tell you below.

Let's see if things work with a temporary test.

This will tell us what does work and eliminates factors by bypassing stuff.

This will eliminate the ignition switch and any wiring in between.

See my 3 pics.

Modify pic 2 to be like pic 3.

This is a basic minimal emergency "make it run" test.

Positive battery to positive coil.

Coil connection is pulled off and the negative side is jumpered back to the negative side of the coil.

The positive side runs straight to Mr. Positive Battery.

The positive side of the coil connector basically cannot do anything good or bad to this test as it is in limbo.

Will it crank and run?

Removing the Positive battery jumper wire will kill the engine.

If this runs like this, at least you will be more motivated, you will know that the coil/ ignition module/ distributor / fuel system are working!

Then you can think of the problem as being much like a riding lawnmowers messed up safety crap.

You have to find the component that is breaking the ignition circuit.

The Medic

Call your local stores.

My pics below are from Advance Auto Parts in my town.

See if any of them can test your ignition module, instead of breaking down and buying one.

If not, break down!

To disconnect the connections on your module, the book says to grasp the wires on either side of the connector and pull!

This works well!

Prying with a screwdriver only breaks off the locking tabs, then you have a connector that won't stay connected!

If someone does have the test machine. Test the module at least 5 times in a row.

Do the same with the new one before you leave.

Nothing like not starting forever while using a "new" "Bad Module", while thinking all is well!

I really unnecessarily tore my Jeep down when that happened to me the first time years ago. I try to pass good info along.

1 and 2) Advance Auto Parts ignition module tester (w/ pigtails)

3) One of many modules that I scarfed off of Jeeps, '70s and '80s Fords in the salvage yards for nearly nothing.

This and the other items shown are 'spares' that I keep in my Jeep at all times. Kind of stupid little parts, if on hand, will get you out of a bind.

Now that I keep them, I don't seem to need them. The fuel pump and module have gotten two other CJs off of the roadside. Should have seen their faces when I diagnosed their issue and had the parts on hand! Yes, I replenished my spares.

The Medic

I thought that maybe you had drifted over to the dark side (Chevrolet's and Dodge's).

Glad to see that you are still plugging away at it!

Keep me posted!

We will overcome the evil force that has taken over your Jeep.

Want me to send my granddaughter to assist?

The Medic

Waiting on your module too!

The Medic

Nice looking Jeep!

So I guess it was the module?

Where it bolts down, insure the fender/ etc. Is scraped clean where it touches, as that is the modules ground.

Next time you are at an old established self serve auto salvage yard. Grab 2 or 3 more fore spares. They need to be "blue" where the wires come out. Found on 70s and 80s Fords. They'll probably give them to you! It won't hurt to chop out some module connectors from the wire harnesses and a few nice looking coil connectors. It's always good to have spare stuff on hand.

Remember us if you you get in another bind!

The Medic