Will not start and run

The idea that you need to hold the throttle down for it to start indicates it is getting too much fuel. Basically, that stops the injectors from working. Have you checked fuel pressure to confirm the regulator is working? Also, do you have a live data scan tool? If you do, could you provide the short term fuel trims for me and any codes that are present?

If you haven't, confirm the fuel pressure is within the manufacturer's specs. Here is a link that shows how to test pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care and God Bless,

Joe

Thank you! I had checked the pressure prior to changing the filter, pump and all the sensors but after the plugs and wires and it came back within the right parameters.

Hi,

Is it running properly now? If so, I'm glad to hear it. Let me know if you can. If I don't hear from you, please feel free to come back anytime in the future. You're always welcome.

Take care,
Joe

Sat down alone today and realized two wires were crossed and that eliminates the “stalling out in gear” issue. my friend brought his scanner over and it popped up as “temperature coolant sensor” and we popped it off, cranked it and it fired up. so I’m hoping I can get it replaced and run the codes once more and everything runs smooth and right, but thank you very much again! God Bless!

Hi,

It sounds like you are on the right track. If you can, let me know the final results. Also, feel free to come back any time in the future if you have questions.

Take care of yourself,

Joe

So I’m back. I replaced the temperature coolant sensor and it cleared right up, so I let it idle for about 20 minutes and ran the codes again and the dreaded P0300 code came up. so that’s where I’m at today.

Did you have the code deleted and it came back? If that's the case, we need to check for vacuum leaks on the engine. I remember that you replaced the fuel pump and filter, so the pressure should be good. If you have a live data scan tool, could you let me know what the short term fuel trims are?

Here is a link that shows how to check for engine vacuum leaks:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know.

Joe

I checked for a vacuum leak, but couldn’t find anything but I ran it for a bit after clearing the codes and it came back telling me that cylinder 6 was misfiring and I pulled it, cleaned it up and popped it back in and then it came back saying that cylinder 2 was doing the same. So I did the same and now it seems to be running just as smooth and code and issue free for now. So I’m just gonna hold out for a few days and see if I noticed anything else off. Thank you very much for you help so far!

Donald

Hi,

What condition were the spark plugs in when you removed them?

Joe

They had some soot on them and were alittle black from it, but I wiped them off and put them back in.

Donald

Don, if they had black on them, that usually indicates a rich fuel mixture, dirty air filter, or even simply making short trips which prevent the engine from fully warming up. Is there any way you could get your hands on a live data scan tool so we can get the short term fuel trims?

Let me know.

Joe

I have a live data scan tool on hand at the time, but it hasn’t pulled any codes up. I just got a new air filter about two months ago, but I haven’t actually driven it a good distance since all this has been replaced. Maybe 5 miles tops.

Donald

If you have a live data scan tool, go to the live data section. With the engine running, see what the short term fuel trims are. I will be able to tell from them if the fuel mixture is too rich.

Let me know,

Joe