Will not start the fuel pump was not getting power?

Hello, are you able to get a voltage reading at the fuel pump connector? And what sort of voltage readings are you getting in the fuse box? If you had low voltage or no voltage to the fuel pump, you probably still have the same issue if there was no resolution to that voltage problem. And with the scan tool, if there is no voltage on pin 16 of the data link connector the scan tool is not going to be able to read anything at all, and you won't even get it to read the vin # to begin with. So, pin 16 is B+ and pins 4 and 5 should be Grounds, Ill post some wiring diagrams for you to do some electrical checks at, and it would be good to have a test light along with a multimeter when checking for power.

Awaiting the images you said you would post so that i know I'm looking at the right things.

They're coming, I was just labelling some wires, fuse boxes and the relay feeding the fuel pump. With a couple of guides to help. Since you're dealing with electrical issues and the fuel pump is a pretty high current circuit, I would use a turn signal or head lamp bulb when checking for power across the two wires that feed the fuel pump's power and ground. You don't need to leave these higher amperage bulbs on the circuit for long, you just need to know that wire can carry enough current to power the pump. Load testing the circuit is important in this case, since it sounds intermittent. A corroded wire will sometimes carry current and other times it won't. I would go through and check all the ground wires that attach to the body or engine block as well. Even if they look okay, Grounds can be very tricky, looking all pretty, but not able to carry enough current.
The first 3 diagrams are for the Data link connector power and grounds.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

These are the Grounds I would check as well, it's even labelled as a Braided wire, which are terrible grounds. They can look fine and have a lot of voltage drop across them. Id replaces this with a solid high gauge ground wire and clean the location it bolts to, so there's no paint or corrosion under its bolt down location. You can hook a test light to B+ and use this location as its ground and also put a meter on it at the same time if you want to see if there is any voltage drop on the wire itself. The load test should expose voltage drop. Just don't use a high amperage test bulb on a power wire that comes through a module such as the PCM/ECM, some power-controlled actuators don't pull much amperage and you don't want to damage a PCM/ECM doing that.

Please forgive the delayed response was waiting on a voltage meter and a test light to come in while I appreciate the diagrams you uploaded they are kind of Greek To Me I thought I was going to have some help from someone with some experience moving forward and looking through this but it appears I'm on my own is there any way you can break at least one of these diagrams down for me and to simpler terms and help me figure out what I'm looking for and looking at so that I can begin to go through and try to find the problem I need to get my car back on the road. thank you so much.

Yes I'd be glad to help you diagnose this. Sorry, most of time folks just want service information and wiring diagrams. But did you get to replace the ECU fuse, and if so, did the fuse blow again? If it did not, is the Green Key light (security light) still flashing on the cluster?
The ECU fuse blowing is concerning, with an older vehicle like this the wiring harnesses can rub through just from years of engine vibrations and wires will make contact with either the engine block or the body of the vehicle causing fuses to pop.

So let me know about the ECU fuse and the security light first. As well as the Check Engine light coming on when you turn the key to just on the on position, not starting the vehicle, just to the first on position. The Check engine light should come on for a few seconds or stay on until you start the engine.

The check engine light does not come on and stay on. Just the green key light. And the ecu fuse didn't blow again. But one note. The fuse for the overhead light on the headliner inside the car, it blows as soon as you put a fuse in it even without the car on.

It looks like #8 fuse in the under-hood fuse box is for the ECM, is that the fuse that was blown?

Okay, so the Check Engine light does not come on at all with just the Key On? This is important, because if the light doesn't come on at all, the ECM might not even be powering up.

I'll have to check just to be certain. I'll do it as soon as i return home and let you know.

For this immobilizer/security system when you put the key in and turn it to the On position, not Start, the security indicator should come on for 2 seconds then turn off.
If it starts to blink instead of going off, I would try a different key, but I'll look up the over light circuit as well.

Okay, yes it was the number 8 fuse that had blown. I'm adding a video of what happens when i try to start the car. Had a locksmith come out he checked the key and the reader at the ignition with some device he had and said both were communicating properly.

Did you get the video?

Okay, the vehicle is not starting because the Immobilizer security system is active, do you have another key to try? I know the locksmith said everything was ok, but he should have seen the Key blinking.
So, try another key if you have one, also try turning the key to the Lock position, remove it and put it back in and turn it to the on position to see if the Key Light goes out.

The immobilizer issue here can be a wiring issue, fuse issue or the immobilizer has failed which I don't think is the issue, since you are having other electrical issues. Most likely there is a section of the wiring harness that is either shorted out, or there can also be a connector will corrosion inside causing some of the pins in the connector to short together. Let me go through some wiring diagrams and see if there are any related circuits or connectors we can check. With the overhead light not working and the blown ECU fuse, there's going to be a wiring issue somewhere here. Check for blown fuses in the fuse box under the dash.

I know wiring diagrams are difficult for you, but I just wanted to show what's included in the Immobilizer circuit. Diagrams 4,5 top & bottom, you can see the two fuses (#7 and #19) are for that circuit, along with a few joint connectors where wires branch out to other components, depending on where they are located, they can become corroded due to water getting in them. Or if you find any other fuses blown in the dash fuse box, there can be a wire(s) that have rubbed through on some metal bracket and shorted out.

Did you check to see if the overhead lamp bulb was okay, it's not just burned out. With a test light hooked to a ground in the car, some metal bracket, you can check that bulb for power, just make sure the test light has a good ground, which can be verified when checking the dash fuses.
I'm still going through diagrams for the overhead light.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Yes I saw the video.

Sorry I just reread about the interior light fuse blowing.

The locksmith didn't find any trouble codes stored in any modules at all? I would think there would be at least one code.

Prior to the security light coming on it was throwing no codes whatsoever when you plugged it in to a standard scanner it didn't throw any codes when the locksmith came it did take a couple different attempts and a couple different devices before he was able to get one of his machines to connect with the car but since the security light has come on no scanners whatsoever as far as scanners that scan for things related to check engine light has been able to pick up the vin or connect with the car at all.

And this is with a new fuse in the #8 position? Did it blow the fuse again after trying to start the engine? That we need to know, because if it's blowing the fuse after the PGM-FI relay 1 turns on, (which power from fuse 8 goes through) the short could be further down the line from the relay.

Usually Hondas are really easy to get into, so if he was having a no communications issue with a number of scan tools, I'm wondering about a potential issue with the ECM getting power, and if the ECM is not being powered up completely it cannot send and receive the correct codes from the Immobilizer to start the engine.
We need to unplug some connectors from the dash fuse box and check that circuit from fuse 8 for any shorts to ground.
Do you have the codes for the Radio in case we need to unhook the battery?

No there is no fuse in the eight position the first time it was changed in the process of doing this work to the car the individual who changed it put a 20 instead of a 7.5 in that place and smoke started coming from overhead ever since then as soon as you put a fuse in it, it blows so there is currently no fuse in the eight position whatsoever.

The fuse #8 in the under-hood fuse box? Should have a 15amp fuse. What 7.5amp are you referring to? Fuse 6 is the 7.5amp fuse for the overhead lamps, (diagram 3).
I'm referring to Fuse #8 which was in the under-hood fuse box, it feeds the ECM relay, that was the fuse you said was blown, correct?

Find the radio code so we can disconnect the battery and do some testing. I will get back with you shortly.

It may not have been fuse 8 and I'm not referring to under the hood I'm referring to the fuse box under the dash and the fuse the powers and controls the overhead light in the interior that is a 7.5 that is the one that blue caused some smoking from the headliner area so we removed the fuse and now as soon as you put a fuse in that spot it blows every time I already have the radio code so I am ready when you are just let me know.

And sorry just reread your inquiry about the ECU fuse have been blown first the overhead lamp fuse blew and started smoking after that is when I noticed that the number eight ECU fuse had blown also the ECU fuse has been replaced and has not blown again since however the overhead light fuse blows as soon as you try to put one in.

Okay, so basically once the overhead lamp circuit started smoking and blew the fuse, did it not start after that? I'm just trying to determine if both these events happened at the same time. It sounds like someone put a 20amp fuse in a 7.5amp location because it probably kept burning out the 7.5 due to a short and adding the 20 amp allowed a lot more current to flow, hence the smoke, so it was most likely not a dead short to ground on the circuit, or it would have blown the 20amp fuse right away. So there must have been some resistance to ground for this all to happen. A corroded connector will do that, when some current can flow between pins in a connector that are close to each other, the corrosion is resistance between the two pins but current still flows over it.
This is how wires melt together if you have ever seen that. Any resistance in a circuit causes heat to built up.

Either way, the reason the fuse for the overhead lamp just pops when you install it is there is a direct short to ground somewhere on the circuit before the load (bulb). If it was smoking like that, there's probably wires melted together, so I would check wherever you saw the smoke coming from. You'll have to pull the covers off the ceiling lamp, take the bulb out and with a flashlight see what you can up above the ceiling where the wires run.

Well I can't be certain as to whether or not the ECU fuse blue before or after the overhead lamp fuse issue because I wasn't the one that checked it, and I know that it wasn't brought to my attention until after the overhead lamp fuse issue had happened. I do have the radio code and am ready to proceed and start wherever you think I should with the test light and the multimeter I've already put the test light to all the fuses underneath the dash, and they all read 11.5.

Battery voltage is low, that doesn't help. It should be at least 12.6v. But see what you have for voltage at the data link connector on pin 16, check it twice, once using pin 4 as ground and then pin 5 for ground.

We will have to assume whatever burned out fuse 8 might be a wire that is not always making contact somewhere, some wire that might be moving around when the vehicle was running.
Do you have another key to try, or have you tried yet? Like a grey valet key? And there are not metal objects on the key chain or near the ignition switch?

We need scan tool data to see if the ECM is not allowing starting due to a key issue itself, or if the ECM is unable to communicate correctly, the communications issue seems more likely with all the scan tool problems, but I think the ECMs in these vehicles are difficult to get to being in the middle of dash if I remember correctly, it might be accessible from the passenger side floor behind the center console panel.

So under the hood there are two fuses under the hood that are giving me no reading with the test light and a couple that are giving me lower voltage readings the test light that I have gives me voltage as well but I also have a multimeter but just that first check with the test light this is what I'm seeing.

In regards to the voltage on the data link connector what do I set my multimeter to check that?

And also, only have one key and there's nothing metal hanging from the key I am simply putting the key in the ignition by itself.

DC volts, it should read battery voltage, I would get a charger or maintainer on the battery because when testing with the key on the battery is just going to keep dropping and its already too low.
Im going to show you where we are on the flow chart for a flashing Immobilizer lamp as well.

Up to step 25, where the engine doesn't start and immobilizer lamp flashing, Honda wants a scan tool hooked up (The HDS is the factory Honda scan tool) but an aftermarket one will do to check for ECM communication.
See what voltage reading you get on pins 7 and then 14 also. Pin 14 is supposed to go directly to the Immobilizer, and pin 7 is the K-Line which is used for scan tool communications to the modules, the K-Line should have a 12volt signal, although a meter is too slow to read the signal, I want to see if there's anything there at all.

When I check 7 and 14 what do you want me to use as the ground?

Also pin 16 reads 11.7 whether i use 4 or 5 as the ground.

Also let me try to get my hands on a scan tool.

You can use pins 4 or 5 for ground, I'm not sure what you will see with a meter and the key On, but I'd expect to see something. The issue here is we don't know if the ECM and Immob, are communicating to each other. A scan tool that can read all the modules in the vehicle, so a higher end scan tool, can go into the security system and ECM to see what the data PIDs are reading. And tell us if the ECM is inhibiting starting due to not seeing the key through the Immob. Other issue might be corrupt data packets on the network, still a communication issue though.

We can have you disconnect the immobilizer connector and the ECM connector E which is where the two communicate the code it needs to allow starting, and see if that wire is shorted to ground or has high resistance, the immobilizer is on the steering column under the Ign switch(diagram 5,6) and the ECM is here(diagram1) and the ECM connector E pin 27 wire colors(diagrams 3,4,5 are all connector E).
Make sure the key is off when doing this. I didn't even ask if this is a key Fob or not, I assumed the lock smith had done everything correctly, but I'm not so sure now.