Will not start

Hi Linda, and welcome to 2CarPros.

To provide a specific code, I would first have to narrow it down to what is causing the crank no start. When you say timing belt, is there a concern that it was past due? This is an interference engine, so we need to be careful. When you tried to restart it, did it sound differently? For example, was the engine turning faster than normal?

I am going to provide a few links that discuss different things to check for when you have a crank / no start condition. Most times it is fuel or ignition related. However, I don't want you to crank the engine if you feel the timing belt may have broken. If it did break, it would have sounded differently when you tried to start it (faster, uneven sound). If that's the case, we need to check the belt before anything else is done and hope no damage was done.

If you feel it wasn't the belt, here are a few links that may help. Check through these and perform the basic tests and let me know the results.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

I know the fuel pump was replaced, but confirm pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

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Again, if you feel confident it wasn't the belt, you have two ways of checking for spark and fuel. First, follow the links I attached above, or you can see if it starts for a couple seconds using starting fluid. If it does, then the problem is fuel related. If it doesn't then most times it is ignition spark related.

Do these things and let me know what you find. Also, let me know if it sounded differently when cranking it after the issue.

Take care,
Joe

Welcome back, Linda:

First, you are very welcome. Okay, if the scanner won't connect, I need you to check fuse 11 in the fuse box under the dash. That fuse powers the DLC (where your scanner plugs into and the ECU). I attached three pictures to help identify it for you.

Next, pin number 16 on the DLC (data link connector) should always have 12v regardless of the key. Check that too. You can do it with a test light or volt meter.

I have no idea if you need these, but here are some links to help when checking electrical:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Also, I want you to check the fuel pump relay. Picture 4 shows its location. You can switch it with a different relay in the box with the same part number and try it, or here is a link that explains how to test one:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Welcome back:

That is what my manual shows. Check and let me know what you find. The pictures I sent are right from Alldata, so they should be correct. However, anything is possible.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi Linda:

Yes, if you remove the fuse both the fuse and circuit can be checked. A blown fuse at this point doesn't mean anything is wrong with the ECU. There are other things which could have caused it to blow. One of the earlier post I sent explains how to check fuses, for power to the fuse, and so on. If you run into trouble, let me know.

Joe